loosen the 4 screws you took out to remove the plate (just loosen them a bit) then just slide it full forward and retighten the screws.

 

Did you put it in the same place that you had the ten? If so that makes no sense for a 100 to make less power in the same position as a 10.

 

but is the #10 plate and a stock plate different if you grind them down. im thinking of tryin to grind down my #10 plate now. what do you slide forward? the plate?

 

could show me a picture of it?

 

how about doing a straight fuel plate, with no notches in it, will that give me good power?

 

Do not grind your #10 keep it for a spare. A #10 is a very good all round plate. If you took your stock plate out then you had to remove the afc. the plate and the afc are what you slide forward.

 

what about grinding it too a #0 plate

 

That would be a #0 plate and yes it would give you all out power but you will never be able to keep your egt's within limits and will melt your pistons. This would be a costly mistake.

 

With a 0 plate you would gain a lot of power down low, and it would be the same up top. The only problem is that they are very smokey and can give some really high EGT's if not careful.

 

when we ground out the stock one, it was worse than the #10

 

You don't have something adjusted right. Home grinding isn't as easy as grinding it and throwing it in, it has to be polished and smooth. When you have the 100plate in what is it doing? Does not have power down low then all the sudden take off if so then the govenor lever is diving under plate and will have to be adjusted. Did you slide evrything forward? Did you bend the fuel shutdown selenoid arm when you were removing the afc if you did it won't pull up all the way and restrict fuel flow.

 

Guys- I've experienced the same thing with one of my trucks. It had a 913 and a 0 plate. In just the right position (about 2/3 forward), I could get 52 pounds of boost. If I slid it full forward, I could only manage 42 and got less power and more smoke. I have no way of explaining it, but I talked to Piers and he said he found the same thing and that 19 mm of total rack travel is the magic number for peak hp with the 913. A full 21 or 22 will make less power.

The 911 pump is different and it may make more power with a 0 plate full forward than with it slightly back. I haven't tried it yet, but now I'm back with a 911 pump so I will find out in a year or so when I have money for upgrades.

 

I don't think that is whats going on here. I have posted before in this thread that full forward isn't always best and he would have to keep adjusting to get it right. If he was getting 42 lbs of boost that would be a increase for him and would not be saying he has less power, now if he has low power down low then all the sudden the turbo lights and he has power thats the govenor arm diving under the plate then coming over the lip of the plate all the sudden. If you watch the arm even when your adjusting the plate (with the selenoid in the run position) if you work the throttle back and forth you see exactly how far the arm will move forward, it will move forward alittle then up the plate and when you move the plate full forward you have to adjust the arm so it can reach the plate or it will go under it at WOT.Keep in mind that at light throttle the arm doesn't contact the plate only under heavy throttle or load. He has posted several times that he needs pictures so he knows what to slide forward I just don't have any.I mean you can put a #0 plate in a full forward position then put the AFC in the rear position and have the star wheel max out and that truck is going to be a dog. I think he needs to put either the #10 or the #100 back in the origal spot then slide the AFC up alittle from the original position and adjust the star wheel back to cut down on smoke levels. Small increments goes a long way full forward is a major increase.

 

Hm, having more power/boost with the plate pulled back a little sounds like a governor arm adjustment.
When I first installed my plate I didnt adjust the arm and it was ok. Then I mis-adjusted it to the very bottom of the plate and it hung up on the large protrusion on the bottom when I accelerated. I had to re-adjust it to land on the peak of that spot so it wouldnt hang up. Then again it ran ok.
Ive always wondered why these plates have sharp edges for the arm to snag on, if the arm does travel the length of the plate under WOT. Why not a 'wavy' variable ramp instead.

 

ok, so i might try adjusting my govner arm and my AFC. then my #100 should be making more power?