gs1000

I recently had a head gasket issue so I ordered a set of 12mm studs to hold it down. I had a stock head gasket put in, next one will be a marine, any way 1600 miles later my radiator is full of oil.
Peak boost during this time was 35 psi. Just took the head off today and the gasket was blown in almost every cylinder. My head had just been resurfaced and had the valve guides done and the head was put on a new short block. so that surface was also sweet. any way I am wondering what caused this and how it can be avoided. Will the marine gasket just last longer or will it cure the problem. Are my drive pressures to high at 35 lbs with the stock turbo? any other possible culprits?

wana12v

could be a faulty gasket, also did you bottom tap the holes before you installed the studs?, did you do your retorques?, a marine gasket will definately hold more. my head is studded/marine gasket and it's holding 23* of timing and 50+ psi of boost. while you have if off again though Id think of having it fire-ringed.

gs1000

I think that my mechanic did bottom tap the threads. I plan on fire ringing it. I have just spent so much money on this truck this month that I just can't ring it now.

BigBlue

35psi on a stock turbo definately shouldn't blow a headgasket. If that was the case then half of the people on this board would be blowing headgaskets. Something else is wrong here.

gs1000

thats kind of what I was thinking. I didnt do a retorque on the head studs , I was going to but didn't. But those suckers were pretty tight coming off today.

gs1000

Any body else have any thoughts?

JD730

Round yourself up a straight edge and a feeler gauge and make sure the block and head surfaces are ok.

35psi is nothing, I have to say there is something wrong with either the block or head surface. Check the head surface and make sure it doesn't have a low spot down the middle from poor machine setup at the shop.

wana12v

35 ps1 isn't much however mine blew at 38 psi (stock not marine/studded) but somthing isn't right. since you have to take it off and you have to get a new gasket I would ring it it's only $200 labor and then you have to purchase a modified gasket with rings but you'd have to buy a new gasket anyway. and as was mention make sure the head and block are flat and your threads are bottom tapped and then do your retorques.

Jambbii

That is probably your problem......

gs1000

retorquing seems to be the main consenses of the few boards I visit. That and make sure the surfaces are flat. I will definatly do that this time.

kipo

You need to retorque right after you install everything and bring it up to temp. Get the gloves out and retorque when it's hot. You'll be surpirsed how much it will move. Trust me I know. My first marine gasket lasted two days.

Jambbii

I have always done mine cold. Most likely after a good retorque you will need to relash the valves.

Jetpilot

The problem isn't boost pressure it cylinder pressure..... The 16.5* of timing might be off and thus cylinder pressures are much higher. Normally a retorque on the studs is only necessary with o-rings, as we are trying to get a good bite on the fire ring of the gasket. Another item could be a faulty install, the gasket could have been nicked while the head was being installed.

Do you know what torque the studs were tighened too? Were they ARP studs? Did you use lots of the ARP moly lube on the stud, washer and retainer? Were they tighened in the proper sequence?

Personally I would check the head and block to ensure flatness and recheck the timing (this may be the biggest culprit). Going with the marine gasket is a good choice (the cummins number for the .020 over gasket is 3283339, .010 over is 3283337, and stock 3283335).

Doug Smith

Dshiftff

doug do you retorque hot or cold. Thanks.

Jetpilot

I like to take the engine to operating temp, shut down and allow to cool for about 4 hours with the hood shut. I then do the retorque.....