Its common on the 3rd gens, but can you do this on a 01 auto 24 valve. Its a friend of mine that just got it, he would like to do the smoke switch and also a convertor lock up switch if possible, any help appreciated. Thanks Ryan

 

I put one on mine. Here's a link
http://dodgetruckworld.tenmagazines....os=1&id=272226

 

I posted pics and how to in the 3rd gen section it sould be the same but you have to have a box that dose boost fooling like and edge or Qzilla. Just do a search in 3rd gen performance.

 

different plugs and wire colors. You need to connect the outside two wires of the MAP sensor with a small switch


(it says 8.0L, but that's what it looks like on the 01 2500)

 

Thanks a bunch i knew there was a diff. in the map sensors between the 2nd and 3rd gens. On the 3rd's its c and d. Thanks again. Oh and what about the convertor lock up?

 

so u do have to have some type of chip or no?

 

I was wondering the same, maybe someone else will chime in on this that has done it. Also about the conv. lock up. Anyone??

 

You have to have a chip of some sort for a smoke switch to work.

The converter lockup switch diagram is in the FAQs.

 

Any one else done these mods that could share your findings? What boxes or tuners are you using for the best smoke? Also i would think doing the lock up to would help with smoke- to load the engine more down low. Thanks guys

 

never heard of this smoke switch sounds like it could be fun. so what wires would i tap into since i have the triangular type plug. also i have a bd boost fooler would i do it before or after the boost fooler? or would it even work?

 

i have the XZT+ this sounds like it could be fun to play around with. anyone got the info on what wires it is?

 

1 BK/LB SENSOR GROUND
2 VT/WT MAP SENSOR SIGNAL
3 DG/RD 5V SUPPLY
(you want to put a button between 2 and 3





Don't forget guys, smoke is wasted power. While it might be fun to smoke out the ricer next to you, it have NO performance gain.


EDIT** and i dont know if you need a chip to make this work. I am not totally sure because I have only done it with a chip in, but it simply fools your computer into thinking it has full boost, so it fuels for full boost, when actually you are not there. Make sense? so it might smoke with no chip, but I can't say for sure.

 

so what wires goes to which part on the switch would the 5v source go to the power on the switch. also would i tap the wires before or after my bd boost fooler or on the fooler its self?

 

the 5 volts will put the MAP voltage beyond what the stock boost limit is and the truck will defuel...thats why a 'smoke switch' works with a boost fooling module, and not with a completely stock truck. a module never lets the ECM 'see' how much boost there really is, adding a 'smoke switch' to an otherwise stock truck is allowing the ECM to see way more boost than it ever should.

2.44 volts at 20.5psi boost is all the ECM should be allowed to see. after that the increased voltage is going to hurt performance as the ECM will begin defueling, unless you have boost fooling abilities.

here's the thread where these numbers are from: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...+voltage+boost

***ok, after reading my own confusing explanation above i think i could do a better job at it, but it'll have to wait until after work.

 

ok, here's what i was going for...
your ECM can only see 2.44 volts max...anything over and it will defuel the motor. on a stock motor if you put a jumper wire to allow it to see 5 volts, it will see this as an overboost condition and defuel, probably to the point that it will not run correctly because no matter how much it defuels the 5 volts is still there telling the ECM the motor is overboosting.

now if you have a boost fooler (whether it be a module with boost fooling abilities, or just an electronic boost fooler) the ECM will only see 2.44 volts, even if youre feeding it 5 volts with the jumper wire. the boost fooler caps the boost 'seen' by the ECM at 2.44 volts (~20.5psi on your boost gauge), but anything over that (3 volts, 4.2 volts, 5 volts, etc. whatever it may be over 2.44 volts) will not be allowed to be 'seen' by the ECM because of the electronic boost fooler. now if you add a jumper wire to always supply 5 volts, your electronic boost fooler still caps this off to 2.44 volts as 'seen' by the ECM, but it also tricks the ECM into thinking it has 20.5psi of boost even in low boost conditions (anything below 20.5psi) so it should give full fuel at those lower boost levels....not enough air plus fuel is what youre getting.

but is there any other parameters (throttle position, RPM, etc) that the ECM must 'see' before it actually gives full fuel? i dont know but i think it would.

i have tried it to give better low end response and it did work (i had an electronic boost fooler), but it was annoying....it surged at cruising speeds. i dont know if i was even getting full fuel, it had more but maybe not all.

the stock fueling isnt enough to produce gobs of smoke. you might see a slight puff but only about what you see at start up.

save your money and get a module. get the benefit of additional timing and new fueling parameters.