24valve 12mm ARP Head Stud Install
#1
24valve 12mm ARP Head Stud Install
I've done a search on related topics regarding install of the 12mm ARP head stud installation.
I've just purchased a set of used studs from a member, and should be here any day, along with my Killer B2 64/14. I have some questions as I've never done head stud replacement.
The studs have only gone through one torque cycle, that's how new they are.
Is there a "best" way in the order of replacement?
What recommendations do you have for using/not using the ARP lube?
I see different numbers for torque depending on the lube, what's the consensus on ft-lbs and please specify w/ or w/o the ARP lube.
My head is not being fire or o-ringed? How many re-torques is right and should it be heat-cycled or not since I'm not ringing?
I know, lots of questions. Just want to do it right the first time.
Thanks.
I've just purchased a set of used studs from a member, and should be here any day, along with my Killer B2 64/14. I have some questions as I've never done head stud replacement.
The studs have only gone through one torque cycle, that's how new they are.
Is there a "best" way in the order of replacement?
What recommendations do you have for using/not using the ARP lube?
I see different numbers for torque depending on the lube, what's the consensus on ft-lbs and please specify w/ or w/o the ARP lube.
My head is not being fire or o-ringed? How many re-torques is right and should it be heat-cycled or not since I'm not ringing?
I know, lots of questions. Just want to do it right the first time.
Thanks.
#2
yes, start in the middle and circle your way outwards. if possible, get the arp lube. screw the studs all the way to the bottom, then back them out 1/2 a turn. Then install the nuts. Torque down to 122 ft lbs regardless of lube. (30 wt. or arp)
replace them one at a time. After you torque them all down, run through them again. Then warm up the truck to operating temp. retorqe while still hot. Then every retorque after that make sure to do it while its hot or you are in danger of blowing your HG.
replace them one at a time. After you torque them all down, run through them again. Then warm up the truck to operating temp. retorqe while still hot. Then every retorque after that make sure to do it while its hot or you are in danger of blowing your HG.
#3
Bottom tap the holes in the block before putting the stud in and use a shop-vac to suck the gunk out. Using compressed air is a waste of your time, on mine I went back through every hole with the shop-vac and got LOTS of crud that was left over from the air gun. The tap is M12x1.75, I got one from NAPA and it cut threads pretty dang good... I used 75w gear oil on the initial install torque and some grease on the next torque I did. If you are just re-clamping the stocker only 1 RE-torque is needed IMO. Ohh and wear a long sleeve shirt the fiberglass made my arm swell up and turn was red and itch for like 2 days
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