Here are a few pictures of the problem. I'm getting the head checked out and repaired if necessary but how does a person prep the block for a new head gasket and which is the best type/brand of gasket to use???

 

Wow, yours was really pushed, mine just had oil in the coolant.
I used a scraper & scuff pad with a vacuum cleaner pulling the junk as it was removed. I sprayed silver paint on the exhaust gaskets..turbo gasket too.
I bought the upgraded gasket from Cummins, it has more sealer around the front passenger side water port. You can see the difference compared to your old one.
I used an engine hoist to lower the head down to 1" then put on the $78 gasket so's not to mess it up.
It took .0035" off the head to make it flat. Machinist said the factory cut was too rough...didn't hold the gasket composite very good

 

I'm just worried about making the block have high and low spots. Silver paint????

 

The Cummins spec on deck flatness is pretty libral, .0130" I believe (ooops, the spec on crankshaft centerline to the top deck surface is 12.7165" +or- .0039"...sorry) but it's got to be clean or the carbon film left on can crack and leak after the head is torqued.
Yep, cheapo silver paint on the little exhaust manifold & turbo shim gaskets, still holding good too. I put the head gasket on dry...wiped the head & block surfaces with laquer thinner before setting the head on.

 

You can get those combination bench stones, one side is coarse, the other is fine. Its about 6"x2"x1", Norton makes them. Take the fine side and flat stone it, it will take off the high spots in your head and block. If theres a wave, its not gonna help you, but it will remove highspots. And it will put a nice shine on it. Thats what we use to prep sealing surfaces at work.

 

I like the 12V marine gasket modified for the 24v engine. You might go ahead and have the head o-ringed while its out. Also have it checked for cracks, pressure tested, valve job, and check guides. Replacing the HG is a time consuming job so getting the head done is cheap insurance for possible problems later.

Doug

 

I Agree,



You can also get the stock gasket from Alberta heavy parts in Burntlake for about $150, which is way better than $480 at the dealership.

 

Thanks everyone for the help. Does anyone here in Canada have those marine headgaskets and do they hold up to daily driving & long trips besides high HP engines??

 

I don't know anyone in Canada who sells the modified gaskets.... PDW in the states keeps them in stock. The hold up great for daily driving and long trips!

Doug

 

How much are they these days Doug?

 

Looks like they are just shy of $200 US.

 

PDR in Surrey BC has them too.

 

Last sept I did my HG, replaced with the 12v marine gasket .020 over from PDW, and alo had them do the decking, checking etc, and a complete valve job. it went back in with ARP head studs tq'd to 128.

I have about 13,000 miles on it with 55psi daily driven, sled pulling, towing trailers, doesnt matter, no more oil in the coolant, or any worry of blowing it. I also make sure to let the motor get up to at least 160 before putting any more than 10psi to it.

 

Anyone have the torque sequence and directions for ARP 12mm head studs??

 

Follow stock pattern, 59 - 77 - redo 77 - 100 - then 125. When your all done a line torque is always a good idea, after starting the engine and getting a heat cycle once it cools down to 100 F, start at the driver side front, back the nut off a half turn and retorque it to 125, do this one at a time. Follow that line to the back of the engine, then move over to the next line and work your way back, and continue for the last couple lines. If you go with orings drive the truck carefully, after 3 more heat cycles ( complete warm out and cool down ) Line torque again. after another 3-4 heat cycles line torque again this time I like mark the studs with a paint marker to see if I'm still gaining any with the retorque if they all line up it's time to play and if they don't 3-4 more heat cycles and retorque. As for the stock torque pattern the Haynes manual is a nice addition to any garage.