Eskimo

If I had to do it again, I'd get a '00 or newer... No kidding.

User Name:

why is that???

gunracer1

i prefere the 12v trucks myself. but i do all my own work, and i like doing it. and as far as reliability goes, 12v wins hands down.

mxdsl183

my neighbor is a mechanic and i bought my 24V and he wont stop nagging me to buy a F.A.S.S pump, not the whole system, he claims its the best thing you can do to a 24V before and other mods. as far a 12V and 24V i love my 24V, my friend has a 97 12V and he loves it they are both great motors in my opinion, the only thing i dislike about the 24V is the electronical stuff, im a fan of mehanical.....all though mine has more power than his.....but u cant go wrong with a cummins!

broncofreak2000

[QUOTE=duallydave]also do the code check thing when you test drive it,get in turn the key on and off 3 times and on the third time leave it on and some codes will show up in the odometer.write them down and post them here,if you get a 0216{i think}its bad,injection pump time..[/QUO

Sorry for the hyjack, I just did this and all I got was: P PCU, P done, P ECU, P done. Does that just mean it scanned the PCU and the ECU, and all is good?
Thanks for the info.

Eskimo

Once you take care of the lift pump issue, what are you left with - The newer body, with the quad cab, the newer dash, and (most importantly for me) on the fly adjustability of fueling.

Also, in the auto's, they respond and behave MUCH better because of the additional inputs to the PCM.. 3-4 locked shifts, Shift points better adjusted, etc.

But, electronics don't really scare me, so I don't fear the 24v, and I'm not looking for 900hp.

Ph4tty

All is good. You have no codes

User Name:

what is the easiest way to fix the lift pump problem? is there a good priced aftermarket replacement that just swaps in-place of the stock one?

thanks,
trey

mxdsl183

well, a FASS pump alone runs 400 bucks thats about all i kno about for a replacemen that gies right in where the stock pump does, i dont kno as much as some of these other guys, but i hope i helped a little!

broncofreak2000

Thanks for the info!

User Name:

so is that the same as the wahlboro pumps i keep hearing about?


trey

mxdsl183

im not sure, i sorta new to all this, ive never heard of one of those pups, ive always heard about FASS, you would have to look at them and compare, or ask some more guys on here what they thing, im sure theres not much differens......sry if im not helpin out as much as you need!

Ph4tty

There's a lot of options in replacement pumps. Carter (OEM), Holly, Fass,.. Fass offers the best warrenty of these and costs the most. Some replace the pump in the stock location others relocate the pump to the frame. These are all electronic pumps. There are two options in mechanical pumps which will offer the best reliability. The first is a Rasp which is run off a belt- and the belt breaking is about all that go wrong- in which case the oem pump kicks in. The ultimate solution is swapping out the cam for one with a lobe on it and run a cummins mechanical pump off this lobe.

So lots and lots of options. I'm using a relocated OEM pump with good results so far. The important thing is a fuel pressure guage, so you can see if there is a problem with the lift pump.

As an example- Jegs sells a kit for $238 that includes pump, relocation bracket, banjo bolts, and lines. Add a FP guage and you're set, but you might want some other guages while you're at it Bombing can be addictive =P

Mike Holmen

If your gonna run your truck stock, bone stock. The factory LP is fine. Its the big fueling boxes and guys the don't change out your fuel filter that give the second gen 24v motor a bad rap. The 12v are sweet, luv and you hate them. I find that the 24v, when running right its a better driver. Yes there are some tweaked hard running 12v, even those guys have pump issues. A 12v typically gets better fuel mileage. The good thing is both motors are bullet proof. If your gonna buy a 24v check for fuel filter for condition and if the truck has a box put on it. Get a fuel pressure reading. If its lower than 12psi at idle, I wouldn't buy it. I found that if my stock LP pump couldn't fuel my truck at wot with less than that. Guys have code scanner that could clear codes if its a problem truck. So the key trick might not be so acturate. The 24v might even still have warranty left in it. I hate to scare any one into not buying a cummin's as it the best motor that has every been installed into a pick-up. Even if you loss a pump (injector or lift pump), is 1-3 hrs with common hand tools your back running. Parts are getting cheap as the each year clicks by. Good luck hunting...