24 Valve camshaft need good ideas.
08-23-2007, 01:14 AM
#32
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Not Buicks, more like the wife and kids. I was spending way too much time on business matters..... With flying full time for Northwest Airlines and working full time on PDW there wasn't enough of me left for those who mattered most. SO PDW was sold and now I spend my free days with the family. Also now maybe I can have some time to get the black truck running again!
Doug
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08-23-2007, 08:34 AM
#33
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Ok I guess someone does not believe me on the egts. My turbo is a hy35 from majestic I believe it is called a hybrid. I can keep my foot to the floor an only get to 1300 sometimes did you look at were I run the chips? Turn them down so I dont get hot. The thread is for the motor I am looking to build not the one I have now. I drive my truck about 6000 miles a month and can promise you I know what my temps are. Thats why I asked about cams to keep the next motor cooler so I can turn up the boxs and smarty. I want to keep the next motor over 400k too. Someone suggested I stud the top and bottom end, rod bolts and the whole nine yards. Whoever that was I took it serious and got the studs and bolts ordered. Thanks for the suggestions on that I am going that route I think thats a smart decision to do it right the first time.
08-23-2007, 08:49 AM
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You guys have me wondering if my gauge or probe is jacked up so I am going to put another one in this morning and see if it changes. I hope it doesnt but if it does I will post it. Ive had that pyro in there since 2000 and I have not seen one go bad but that doesnt mean they dont go bad huh.
08-23-2007, 10:18 AM
#36
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I ran a B1 with 150hp injectors, and smarty and I could peg 1600* without the TST, with the TST it would peg the gauge in seconds, and a B1 is much bigger than a HY35 even if it was some type of hybrid.
08-23-2007, 11:34 AM
#38
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Ok 11:30 got the gauge in and it was about 250 shy. I have not pulled loaded yet I will tonight. So I WAS WRONG sorry I was believing my gauge. I can only tell what I see ya know. Sorry for deeming like I was fibbing or telling a story, it was not intentional. So now what do I need to do, still go with thetwins and the helix 2 like yall recommended. Thanks sorry again ph4tty not meant to have any misbeliefs!!!!
Jason
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08-23-2007, 12:12 PM
#39
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Do you have the motor apart? Heck if you tow that kind of weight that often and have that many miles, it must work. If your cylinders have big score marks in them or your head is badly cracked or your valves are sunk (burnt out) then change your turbo size and your pyro system. Either your injectors are smaller than 220 sized or you got one good flowing 35HY. I can't believe that you can make 500+hp on that combo but I've been wrong before. Studs are over kill for your motor unless your going for bigger boost #'s. Oring the head is a good idea but not required for a HY35 turbo. New stock blots will well. I would put the motor as much stock as possible.
08-23-2007, 01:41 PM
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IMO, an HY35 can never stuff enough air into the engine to require studs. By the time that thing is approaching high(ish) boost levels, it's making so much heat that the actual air mass into the engine is getting lower-- so the cylinder pressure is lower, too because not as much fuel will burn.
Not to mention the EGT will be off the charts with intake temps of 300-400°.
Not to mention the EGT will be off the charts with intake temps of 300-400°.
08-23-2007, 01:52 PM
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Guys the hy35 is on the motor in my truck now not the one I plan on building to stuff back in it. Mike that motor is still running in the truck
08-24-2007, 12:22 AM
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08-24-2007, 12:50 AM
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Nope looked today says hx-40 I guess I shoulda looked a little better at it. All i knew was the stuff that I got a ticket for the work done.
Jason
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