I was driving through west virginia last weekend & trying to keep up with a friend who was driving an 08 2500 6.7l CTD (since he knew where we going), but I continually ran out of steam.

My truck is a stock 98 12v Automatic 4x4 club cab long bed w/ 33" BFG Mud T/As & 3.54 rear gears. I had to tach the engine way up to 2100 RPM to run with him on the flat parts, but when we hit the mountains, it was like I threw out an anchor. I was only carrying 4-500lbs of cargo, including passengers.

I guess the first thing I should do is change the fuel plate & gsk? I've resisted doing this b/c I am really afraid of blowing my tranny. Should I look into a 6spd auto (like the 08) or belly up the bar & modify my engine?

Thanks!

 

get it to fuel past 2K and youll pass him

 

If you want to do it, do it right.
First thing is a good set of gauges
Then add some fuel and timing, chances are timing has slipped since new anyway, and even just resetting to stock value would help.
Then you will need to address the trans, either full built auto or manual and clutch swap.
And you'll have to stud the head, and o-ring all those fun things
Then you start talking turbo(s)
See the dollar signs yet? I do. thats why my 02 is stuck with only a comp+RV275's and an upgrade single disc clutch. Any more fuel and I am on borrowed time for the head gasket and clutch.

To really answer your question, the difference is not in the transmission, though a couple more gears wouldnt hurt a stock 5.9, its just the upped HP of the new truck.

 

How fast were you trying to go. With what few mod's I have, I would be able to up most mountains 6% grade doing 80 mph if I wanted.

 

Yeah exactly, how fast were you going? On the flat parts, are you saying you had to downshift? Last weekend I was ripping up a 6.5% grade at 75 mph and I could've gone faster if I wanted. Once the torque converter locks up, it's all smiles.

 

These were 8% grades & my speedo needs to be reprogrammed, but I think around 80mph. Although I just worked it up on an online calculator & it reads 84.4MPH! I had it completely floored, I am not sure manually downshifting my automatic would have accomplished much.

FWIW the 08 Ram was running 315s & also had an faulty speedo.

I was frustrated that he could just pull away from me whenever he felt like it.

I agree on gauges, I was nervous just turning that kind of RPM, I let it idle a good 5 min in his driveway after we finished the trip. Is there some kind of overhead gauge setup for my truck. I realize the a pillar kits are functional, they just look boy-racerish to me.

I've been thinking about the TST #8 or #6 kit. would injectors be a good plan for this too?
for the tranny is there an alternative to buying an entire trans, maybe just a valve body or torque convertor, or both?

I am not looking to build a drag truck, pull truck or anything like that, I just want to keep up with the newer trucks.

Thanks again!

 

Yeah, I know what you mean. All the newer trucks are making the older rigs look bad with their high hp/torque ratings. In stock form, your EGTs won't get hot enough to worry. You can hold your engine at 2100 rpm all day long, it's not much. If you do a #10 plate and 3kgsk, it'll really wake the truck up. They are safe and you'll wonder how you ever drove the truck before. I'd do those first, then injectors; but I think you'll be happy with those for now. A torque converter and valvebody are also a must. These transmissions must've been designed for a gas engine because the stall speed on the TC is so high it's ridiculous. If you do these mods, it'll be a whole new truck. Oh and don't ever feel inferior to a newer truck even if yours is slower. Just remember, you have a 12v.

 

In stock from your truck should be able to spinn over 2100 unless ive missed something because mine would spin to 2500 no problem threw the gears and in 4th it would hit 2700. Im not sure about u guys but with my truck i maxed the turbo out (40 psi) with a #8 plate(in stock location), and 90hp injectors and having a 4inch down pipe and a 5inch exhaust it was still peging 1500 degrees

 

just my opinion but you could prolly get away with a tourque converter and valve body if you do them both at the same time # 10 plate and gsk and turn your boost up to about 35 psi and then have your buddy try to out run you then!

 

famous grouse:

If you take wcbcruzer's advice you will not be disappointed. I don't have the GSK kit in mine and I'm real happy with my set up although I been thinking about getting the kit just haven't done it yet.

 

famous grouse

I think you need to give your truck a good basic tune-up when you install a set of gauges.
You need to make sure the torque converter clutch is locking up.
No boost leaks
Check fuel pressure and you're probably due for an over flow valve.
Never hurts to change the fuel & air filters unless they are relatively new.

A newer truck is gonna whoop you in a drag race, but even fast highway cruising you should be able to keep up.

I came through the Rockies when my truck was completely stock and about 2k of cargo & passengers. I was passing everything going up the mountain passes and had to kick off the cruise control to stop my wife from leaving permanent finger marks in the door handle. I'd like to do it now. I'm double my stock hp

 

wcbcruzer: when you say #10 plate, do you mean the tst kit, or a #10 plate (only?) from some other vendor? is there a place where i can get a kit w/both the plate & kit matched up?

fueling around: are these items I can check @ home with basic tools or should I go into a shop for these tests? along the same lines, would you recommend going to my local dodge dealer or to a med/heavy duty truck shop IE my local Cummins dealer/service center. Lastly, I've only had this truck for a few months, but it looks like the PO maintained it really well. should I adjust valve lash for good measure while I am @ it?

Thanks everybody for the responses, I appreciate them all!

 

My engine is a 190HP/475lb Ford truck engine. When I put in the truck I was so dissappointed that I was just ****** because I had spent all the time and money for such a dog of an engine......so I went to work. Did the gov. washer mod, fuel plate full forward, and the AFC/star wheel tweaked for power without rediculous smoke(does smoke a good bit though), it was like a different truck. Later I changed from the H1C turbo to an HX35, went up on injectors and bumped timing to 15.5 and that made a little more difference. As it is now, I can run as fast as I want and get there quickly. It changes very little on performance untill getting over 10K GVW. I would also recommend the tranny work mentioned with a lock up switch as that will make a big differnce in getting power to the ground rather than wasting it in the convertor.

 

Well, injection timing, fuel pressure and charge air (boost) leaks all require specialized tooling not normally found in your home or even most Dodge dealers. I would stay away from Cummins just due to the high shop labor rates.
If you can find a local diesel pickup chapter they often have wrench days to share tooling and hands.

I had my initial maintenance done by a RV shop in the Seattle area. It was well worth they $400 charged for a few fixes and the peace of mind the truck was in shape to make a 1600 mile trip in the winter. I was moving and just didn't have the time to spend.

A valve adjustment isn't a bad start along with the fuel & air filters.
Add a set of gauges and them start thinking about your future plans.

Take a look at the injection pump and see if the tamper screws and lock wires are still intact.

I do not recommend any performance mods on a stock transmission. I've done them for people and most of them end up removing the RFG and killing their transmission.

 

Get some gauges, put in a 3K GSK and move the stock plate forward or grind it a little and keep it in the stock location. After that you should know about how hard the bug has bitten you… If it’s not too bad a simple TC and VB will do. But most likely you’re going to need a fully built Trans. After that comes injectors, DVs, turbo, pump work, head work, another turbo, larger injectors and maybe a lilt spray.