2001 2500 Track bar ideas
#1
2001 2500 Track bar ideas
I have a 2001 Dodge 2500 that has some play in the track bar. All other front end parts appear good to go. This truck has 175000 miles on it, 3 inch level kit, bilstein shock and I run 33 inch mud tires.
When I hit rough road this thing shakes like an earthquake.
Was looking at Track bars and have a few questions:
Do I need an adjustable track bar w/ conversion kit?
Is a Steering box stabilizer a worthwhile addition??
Could I just buy the Moag non adjustable replacement for $100ish and be done with it?
Spohn performance has the adjustable Track bar, conversion bracket and steering box stabilizer for $488 vs $675 for the Solid Steel kit. Anybody try the Spohn kit?
I plan on keeping the truck…..
Thanks for the help!
When I hit rough road this thing shakes like an earthquake.
Was looking at Track bars and have a few questions:
Do I need an adjustable track bar w/ conversion kit?
Is a Steering box stabilizer a worthwhile addition??
Could I just buy the Moag non adjustable replacement for $100ish and be done with it?
Spohn performance has the adjustable Track bar, conversion bracket and steering box stabilizer for $488 vs $675 for the Solid Steel kit. Anybody try the Spohn kit?
I plan on keeping the truck…..
Thanks for the help!
#2
Registered User
I'm in the same boat (sorta). 3rd gen style seems to be the way to go, I can't get more then about a year and a half-maybe 2 out of a moog. And I'm horrible with receipts so I end up buying a new one. Steering box brace is a very nice edition, made my truck rock solid at any speed on the highway, back when I was running 33x12.5's. I'm running 265-75-16 now, and the Moog still doesn't last, I grease it regularly.
I'm saving up for a stock 3rd gen bar and adapter bracket. I don't trust a hollow tube with an 8' blade hanging over the front end on the high way. 3rd gen guys do unload them sometimes when going to an adjustable for a lift kit.
I'm saving up for a stock 3rd gen bar and adapter bracket. I don't trust a hollow tube with an 8' blade hanging over the front end on the high way. 3rd gen guys do unload them sometimes when going to an adjustable for a lift kit.
#4
Registered User
The thuren bar is nice if you can go with the second gen. About 1 in 4 trucks are able to bolt it in (Mine was one of four!).
If not, his 3rd gen kit is the way to go, according to many guys on here that have it.
If your trac bar is going out, ball joints and end links are next, and will expire pretty quickly if you don't adress the trac bar quickly.
The DSS will help save your steering box, more than anything.
If not, his 3rd gen kit is the way to go, according to many guys on here that have it.
If your trac bar is going out, ball joints and end links are next, and will expire pretty quickly if you don't adress the trac bar quickly.
The DSS will help save your steering box, more than anything.
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Altoona, PA
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I have a thuren adjustable bar and its nice since its all rebuildable. If I had to do it I would do the 3rd gen upgrade. If you are stock height you dont need an adjustable.
#6
Registered User
Is a Steering box stabilizer a worthwhile addition??
Watch out though, it might be too late especially with oversized tires.
Check to see if where the steering box bolts in if the frame is cracked or bolts pulled though.
#7
Registered User
Steering box stabiliser, 3rd gen trackbar update, preferably adjustable to allow centering of the axle under the truck. Other than that, take your pick of quality ball joints, and tie rod ends. Go with a Redhead steering box just because it is that much better.
That is about as good as you'll make a dodge front end.
That is about as good as you'll make a dodge front end.
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#8
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Airdrie Canada
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I would buy the mopar steering linkage 52122362AH, its off a 4th gen. Way more beefy steering linkage than stock.
Hard to go wrong running the 3rd gen track bar (bushing track bar) vs. the ball joint track bar.
Adjustable track bars are for truck will taller than stock front springs, put the pitman arm back into the stock position and you get the normal steering, not less travel on one side and more on the other.
Hard to go wrong running the 3rd gen track bar (bushing track bar) vs. the ball joint track bar.
Adjustable track bars are for truck will taller than stock front springs, put the pitman arm back into the stock position and you get the normal steering, not less travel on one side and more on the other.
#9
Registered User
Mike. As you have seen as the springs sag in the front, or even for those with 2" riser blocks, any variance from the stock height, makes the front axle sit to one side.
Now, most people don't notice this small difference, but I am picky... terribly, terribly picky. Especially about little things like that.
so, I get the steering wheel lined up, then measure, then adjust everything accordingly, and measure again. I like the front and rear of the truck to track as squarely as possible.
I do agree, leave the pitman arm in the stock position, then adjust the drag link accordingly to center it.
Now, most people don't notice this small difference, but I am picky... terribly, terribly picky. Especially about little things like that.
so, I get the steering wheel lined up, then measure, then adjust everything accordingly, and measure again. I like the front and rear of the truck to track as squarely as possible.
I do agree, leave the pitman arm in the stock position, then adjust the drag link accordingly to center it.
#10
Registered User
My front axle sits slightly to the drivers side, about 1/4", but my springs are straight and in their at rest position on level ground. Not sure how raising the chassis equal on both sides shifts the axle to one side...
I got a flipped pitman arm after the 2" spacers caused my tie rod ends to "pop" when hard turning, this dropped the drag arm down the thickness of the pitman arm and solved the "pop".
I got a flipped pitman arm after the 2" spacers caused my tie rod ends to "pop" when hard turning, this dropped the drag arm down the thickness of the pitman arm and solved the "pop".
#11
I put a DT Profab on over 10 years ago and never looked back. It't been all over Baja offroad with a cabover camper, no problem. Not cheap, but the good stuff never is. It's adjustible so you can center the axle under the truck to compensate for lift kits.
http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02000HD-T...-LIFT_p_8.html
http://www.dtprofab.com/TRAC-BARS-STEERING_c_26.html
http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02000HD-T...-LIFT_p_8.html
http://www.dtprofab.com/TRAC-BARS-STEERING_c_26.html
#13
Went with Spohn Performance Adjustable trac bar. Seems to be working great. Now I need to replace tie rod ends. They are starting to get movement......
recommendations?
recommendations?
#14
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NW Arkansas
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I put a Lukes Link on my stock track bar and new poly bushing on the other end today. made about a 90 % difference in wander and have a new 52122362AH T Type tierod setup coming. Excited to be able to get out of my truck and be able to drive the wifes 2013 without runnim off the inside of every curve!
#15
Registered User
I have luke's link/urethane bushing, DSS bar and truck drives way better than when I got it. I think Redhead steering box would be next when I have more money.