TravisDj

Ok I have a few questions. I just purchased a 97 12V 5spd 4x4 Extended Cab long bed.

1. Should I put a fuel pressure gauge on it?
a. If so do I need the isolator?
2. What other gauges should I get? EGT, Boost?
3. What are some other things I should do right away besides basic maintenance? I know I need to check to see if the KDP was killed, and have it done if it wasn't.

Any other input would be great. Thanks guys.

displacedtexan

Good pick on the truck...

You don't need a FP gauge, I want one to monitor the filter, and would not waste the money on an isolator, I will just use a needle valve when that time comes...

Want more power?

A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning.

A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.

More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.

To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.

There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.

The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools. But it makes a big difference, especially with the milage.

xtoyz17

I still don't understand why anyone doesn't run less than a 10. A #8 or a #6 will technically make more power. Why not run them? Or is it the guys that don't want all out power get 10's, and those that would normally get #6 just skip it and go for a zero? Is there any reason to not get the most aggressive plate there is?

Shawn

TravisDj

I appreciate the input. My main goal is increase fuel economy(I must be retarded right?) and still be able to tow. I have an enclosed 6x12 I tow ocassionaly. I'm sure I will get interested in bombing, but I don't want to rush it.

TxDiesel007

I run a 100

much better than a 10, see it as a 10 from the start then a zero with no defueling, why not get the most agressive plate? simply said, many of us tow with our trucks and dont like the smoke, i dont run a 0 in mine, i run a 100, If you like watchin the pyro alot then get the 100, another reason to get the 100 is if you have twins or air to burn the fuel, they u will appreciate the more aggressive plates even more..

Rick

TxDiesel007

I run a FP gauge

as nick said and he was right, ditch the isolator, EGT and boost are a must especially since u already might have modding the truck in mind, My FP setup is as follows, tapped banjo bolt, needle valve, steel braided line to what used to be an isolator, (till i found out the stupid thing didnt work), then a double male connection to another female connection which is hooked up to some oil pressure tubing, all the way to a 0-60 fuel pressure PSI gauge in the center of my pod, works great and no leaks..

Hope this helps..

Rick

displacedtexan

Read my sig... I have less than $400 in my truck, and tow a 6x12 5-6 days a week. Occasionally I leave it parked at a job and average 18-20 MPG, and average tank of 60% towing I get about 15 MPG. Worst I have ever seen is 14, and I drive about 50% in town...

TravisDj

Well I bet I can do that stuff for less than 100 bucks. My buddy has a machine shop, he is also a diesel mechanic.

On another note, I can't remember where I read it but someone said there was a huge draw back to running 16.5* timing. I don't remember what they said, maybe something about the transmission.

I'm ready to mod.

TxDiesel007

i run 16.5

no disadvantage other than a bit of low end power lost, picked up at least 1.5 mpg better, and trucks runs much better than stock, id say do it... 17 and up is what drives up the driveline pressures, which in my opinion are what make the headgaskets go boom, i have seen 60 psi on mine a couple of times and it has not gone yet (lucky i guess) but as nick said, cylinder and driveline pressures are what bust these things...

Rick

displacedtexan

Most of my money is in the gauges...

I ground my own plate (it's easy), you can disconect the wastegate line, and use washers for the GSK. I paid to have the timing done, mainly due to the fact that I got it done on a Thursday night that I had plans on before a road trip that I wanted the milage increase before.

I have never heard anything about the timing being bad for the tranny. It is harder on the HG, but since I'm still in the stock turbo I'm not worried. If it does pop, I'll get a marine gasket and studs, and be good to go for a long time But many run 16.5* with no problems, it does increase cylinder pressures though...

xtoyz17

Does anyone have a picture of a stock plate ground to 100, hopefully before and after? Would it be better to buy a ten, and grind it to a 100? I figure better to keep the stock plate around anyways, as well as getting a boost elbow to booy. How expensive is it to have the timing done? If it's more than the tools from snap-on, I'll just do it myself. Not counting gauges if I can get more power reliably and better gas mileage for less than 500, I'd be VERY happy.

displacedtexan

There is (was) a pic in Rick's gallery, here it is...

From Infidel...

I see no reason to keep the stock plate, so I just ground mine down.
And I have about $400 invested in my truck mods. I paid $125 to have the timing done.

xtoyz17

Any measurements for how a 100 plate should be ground? What's with the giant bump on the 10? Isn't that right in the middle of the power band? I'd assume that means a loss of power right there?

TxDiesel007

Just a temporary defuel

to help keep your egts in check.... Thus making it one of the most popular plates among the 12V folks, although im startin to think that the 100 has already surpassed the 10..

Rick

xtoyz17

Are egt's a problem with the 100 plate? I understand why you guys do it, and I'm all for it as I really don't want to constantly have to stare at the egt's. More power as long as it's consistently safe and reliable is fine by me.