12v Cylinder Porting Tommorrow...
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12v Cylinder Porting Tommorrow...
Hey everyone, I got my head pulled off Friday night thanks to the help of some good buds. I am going to be taking it to get O-ringed, a valve job, and HD springed tommorrow or Tuesday, just whenever I get the head ported to the max I can. I found a thread by Bobcat AKA Garrett lol
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=125711
and then a link on PDR's website that has some pics and instructions.
http://piersdiesel.com/TechPortHead.htm
And when me and my buddy pulled all the valves out the exhaust ports look HORRIBLE! Is there a chance of taking out too much or can I just basically make the bowl as big of a diameter as the valve seat? And how smooth should I leave the bowls when finished? Should I leave some rough marks from the grinding stone or bust out a sanding bit and make it very smooth? This is my first time to do anything like this but I WILL do it myself because I have to learn sometime right? lol
With answers to the questions and opinions could you give your experience and reasoning behind these thoughts? I really appreciate all the help ya'll! I also think I have a flexible extension for my dremel so I can get into the intake plenum side and open the chambers up a little. And one more thing that little "bump" that sticks into the plenum up by #1 can I grind that thing down to help improve airflow?
I am tossing around the idea of making a spoof of a Banks Twin-Ram without any grid heaters to try and even out the airflow between the cylinders, I know some people say those don't do diddly but IMO every little bit helps... lol. Anyway thanks again!
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=125711
and then a link on PDR's website that has some pics and instructions.
http://piersdiesel.com/TechPortHead.htm
And when me and my buddy pulled all the valves out the exhaust ports look HORRIBLE! Is there a chance of taking out too much or can I just basically make the bowl as big of a diameter as the valve seat? And how smooth should I leave the bowls when finished? Should I leave some rough marks from the grinding stone or bust out a sanding bit and make it very smooth? This is my first time to do anything like this but I WILL do it myself because I have to learn sometime right? lol
With answers to the questions and opinions could you give your experience and reasoning behind these thoughts? I really appreciate all the help ya'll! I also think I have a flexible extension for my dremel so I can get into the intake plenum side and open the chambers up a little. And one more thing that little "bump" that sticks into the plenum up by #1 can I grind that thing down to help improve airflow?
I am tossing around the idea of making a spoof of a Banks Twin-Ram without any grid heaters to try and even out the airflow between the cylinders, I know some people say those don't do diddly but IMO every little bit helps... lol. Anyway thanks again!
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On the exhaust side you should make the ports as shiny as possible. Intake side you should leave them just ground, no polishing to help atomize the air-fuel mixture.
As far as the pocket porting I have always heard to leave the throat about 85 to 90% the size of the valve seat. Also the most gain can be found by concentrating on the short side radius by blending it into the floor of the port. Just take your time, you can always remove material, but ya can put it back.
As far as the pocket porting I have always heard to leave the throat about 85 to 90% the size of the valve seat. Also the most gain can be found by concentrating on the short side radius by blending it into the floor of the port. Just take your time, you can always remove material, but ya can put it back.
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On the exhaust side you should make the ports as shiny as possible. Intake side you should leave them just ground, no polishing to help atomize the air-fuel mixture.
As far as the pocket porting I have always heard to leave the throat about 85 to 90% the size of the valve seat. Also the most gain can be found by concentrating on the short side radius by blending it into the floor of the port. Just take your time, you can always remove material, but ya can put it back.
As far as the pocket porting I have always heard to leave the throat about 85 to 90% the size of the valve seat. Also the most gain can be found by concentrating on the short side radius by blending it into the floor of the port. Just take your time, you can always remove material, but ya can put it back.
Bob
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if you dont pay attention to what you are doin u can mess a head up pretty good. but good luck, you should give browns diesel performance a call. they will cut you a scramin deal on a fuuly done head.
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Oops lol, thats what I get for trying to think on two hours of sleep, I've still got the SBC heads that I just ported on my mind. Anyhow the same thing still applies on the short side radius.
OMG don't say such a thing like that, haha. I would never own one. A car that is. Bikes are a diff story.
OMG don't say such a thing like that, haha. I would never own one. A car that is. Bikes are a diff story.
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If you just clean up and blend you soulden't have to worrie, it is when you start houging out the ports you have to be very care full, also a good valve job will help alot, give bobcat698 a call he has one heck of a deal on a ported head, same ones that he uses.
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#8
Spend the money add send the head to these guys:
http://gethoned.com/process.html
Improve flow greatly!
http://gethoned.com/process.html
Improve flow greatly!
#9
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Well guys I would love to buy another new head already ported out, that has been the plan from the beginning and was going to do so from Bobcat. I still plan on buying a head eventually from him, the only reason I can't is because of money, I had the money saved up to buy one but after a month straight of rain my bank account quickly dwindled to less than needed. And I won't be able to swing that kind of cash around for a while, and the head is off NOW.
So on the intake side I can remove a fair amount of material as long as I let the "swirl " shape remain? But there is no swirl shape needed on the exhaust side correct? And I can make both as smooth and shiny as mirror if I felt so-inclined to without negaive effects?
And when you say the short radius I believe you are speaking of the inner part of the bowl where the floor meets the sides correct?
I'm trying to get the best idea possible for what is instore tonight when I get off work, I'm going to hit up one or two Monster XXL's and then go to town on the head! lol Thanks guys for the help so far!
So on the intake side I can remove a fair amount of material as long as I let the "swirl " shape remain? But there is no swirl shape needed on the exhaust side correct? And I can make both as smooth and shiny as mirror if I felt so-inclined to without negaive effects?
And when you say the short radius I believe you are speaking of the inner part of the bowl where the floor meets the sides correct?
I'm trying to get the best idea possible for what is instore tonight when I get off work, I'm going to hit up one or two Monster XXL's and then go to town on the head! lol Thanks guys for the help so far!
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I spent about an hour with the die grinder this morning and got the worst exhaust bowl ported (#1 cylinder) to my liking, all I need to do is get to polishing.
As far as gasket matching goes, I held one of the exhaust manifold gaskets up to the exhaust outlet and it would require about 3/16" to be removed from the outlet to match the gasket in size.
And can I bore out the passageway the exhaust gasses go through from the bowl to the outlet or would there be water jackets to close to risk that? And would doing so help?
Thanks again ya'll!
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