Alright everyone it seems that the Formula I Helix II is the most talked about camshaft for the 12v, but what does everyone else have to offer? What does Haisley, Schied, EEP etc. have to offer to compete with the Helix? I have a PDR but I don't know if I want to run it anymore, I want to run something that is going to spool the turbo better (as fast as possible) and make power all the way to 4000RPM or more so that racing on the street is better especially.

Also what are the prices for the different cams from the different manufacturers? Are they stock cams reground, new blanks reground, billet, etc? I don't want to switch out pistons for cut ones either so...

Anyway lets hear everyones opinions and experience with this one!

 

I thought that most of places like EEP, Haisley and so-on used re-grinds but I am not sure? I am running the Helix II with a SB66 and it wont lay down till I let off the go pedal 4000,4100,4200 but mabey these other shops due offer new cams not regrinds?
Brandon

 

I'm in the market myself, other than the ones you mentioned I know of a MaxSpool cam is also out there and it is a regrind. No experience with it, just know several that have used it and seem to like it.

 

Ah, Yes, heard nothing but good things on this cam also I had hamburger on my mind when I wrote my post !
Brandon

 

Yeah I have heard of the Maxspool before as well. It doesn't seem like there are a lot of people that have upgraded cams...?

Is there any real disadvantage to a reground camshaft as opposed to a camshaft ground from a blank? Is the Helix billet or ground from a blank?

97'CTD how is daily driving with that Silver Bullet66 and Helix II? Could you tow a trailer up to 5k? Is your head ported as well?

 

Cam threads can become very heated, lets hope this stays on topic.

To answer the original question, in my opinion, if you are not wanting to cut the pistons, stick with the PDR you are currently running.

 

Not to say the H2 isn't good...but I doubt you'll see much of a difference swaping the two. I do however reccomend getting a bolt on gear!

 

Got the bolt on gear, Head is ported, 3-Angle valve job. The combo im runnin is sweet break the tires loose in 4th gear fun fun fun set-up As for towing I wont say, I dont know and I dont want to steer anyone in the wrong direction!!! But I bet it could be done !
Brandon

 

EEP, Schieds, and Haisleys can get you what ever you want. Re-grind or billit. If you want power then call one of these three, nothing against anybody else but nobody can make power like these guys

 

I haven't installed the PDR cam yet, right now the head is torn off and I have ported and polished it A LOT and I will be taking it tommorrow morning to get a 3-angle valve job, HD springs and cut for fire rings. I don't know much about the cam that I have, I bought it second hand and the information I was given wasn't much. So I would just as soon sell it and get a different one that I know will fit my driving.

How come neither Scheids or Haisley have anything listed online? I assume they make a camshaft that would do what I want but I geuss I have to call...? Does anyone have a rough geuss as to the cost?

And as far as a bolt-on gear, I know I have seen Don M talk about gear walk at high RPM's in P-pump trucks but how much does it actually do, is it truly a threat? Couldn't you just put a dab of loctite on the camshaft when pressing the gear on to ensure the gear stays?

Why is it when you install a new camshaft you have to run the truck at 2000RPM's for a short period of time to "break in" the cam?

Thanks everyone lets hear some more!

 

I dont know about gear walk I just know that the front snout of the cams are weak that is why the bolt on gear has a long bolt to strengthen the front of the cam. To break-in my cam in I fired up and let it idle for 15 Min. then just went driving .
P.S. Is your truck daily driver if so I would have the head O-Ringed JMO.
Brandon

 

You need to do what you deem nessesary but I will say a $5.00 bolt is much cheaper then a engine.....not even concidering the down time and labor

 

Some guys tack weld the gear to the shaft...... Not really a good option, I have seen several of these either come off of at least break the welds. As for locktight, it won't even come close to holding the forces extracted on the cam.

 

Would a press on gear still be alright on a Daily driver , that will very rarely see over 3000 rpm? ( under 500 hp)

 

You just want some lubrication. Tim used a cam lube of some kind too.