12V or 24V?
#1
12V or 24V?
I am looking at buying a used Cummins and am not sure which I would be happier with the 12v or the 24V. I am looking for a extended cab short box as a daily driver that will see some light off road use and towing as in my trailer and soon to be turbo Dakota for race days. I am also looking to get some extra HP out of it and from I seen I would go with a twin setup. What do you all prefer? Also I am looking for some good info on manifolds and turbos for a twin turbo setup.
PS out of curiosity what would it take to get one of these trucks to run 12's in the quarter.
Thanks
PS out of curiosity what would it take to get one of these trucks to run 12's in the quarter.
Thanks
#2
Registered User
If you want a sweet towing truck, get a manual tranny, if you want a 12 sec truck you will need a built auto. Less the cost of tranny upgrades, you could put a cummins in the 12's for :
1000 head work/studs
800 injectors
250 fuel system
50 BHAF
800 Nitrous
50 straight pipe.
= ultra cheap and not very reliable 12's.
1000 head work/studs
800 injectors
250 fuel system
50 BHAF
800 Nitrous
50 straight pipe.
= ultra cheap and not very reliable 12's.
#4
Registered User
If you like to turn wrenches and tweak things all the time, go with a 12 valve. If you like to push buttons once in a while, go with the 24 valve. Any truck with proper maint is reliable.
#6
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For sale stuff should be in the classifieds...
I like the 12v, having had both. Early 98 models are the only 12v available with quad cab and short beds.
But it would be hard to have a 12v run 12s and still be a good tower, due to the fact that you cant just turn all your boxes down. For what you want, I'd recommend a CR (03+)
I like the 12v, having had both. Early 98 models are the only 12v available with quad cab and short beds.
But it would be hard to have a 12v run 12s and still be a good tower, due to the fact that you cant just turn all your boxes down. For what you want, I'd recommend a CR (03+)
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#8
I guess the 12V vs 24V is kind of a rats nets of a question I guess I like the idea of being able to turn it down when its time for towing. I am also alot more likely to find the cab style I want in a 24V. Any more suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
#9
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If it weren't for the darn vp44 I would've probably looked at 24v's as well when I was in the market. I guess they aren't too bad. A vp44 could go a 100k+ miles but it would eventually have to be replaced and it's not cheap. Kinda like an automatic tranny. The problem is, you don't know when or where it would crap out on you. If you're looking at 24v's, make sure you don't get a 53 block either. They crack.
#10
Administrator
TrxR:
I have owned both a 2002 Dodge CTD 24 valve truck which I have sold and a 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve which I still own and will hold on too for a long time.
I had alot of problems with my 2002 Dodge CTD 24 valve (two VP-44's, five lift pumps) and am glad I got rid of it. On the other hand, my 96' has given me excellent service and although it is far from stock now, it is still a very reliable, daily driven truck. The P-7100 fuel pump is very tough and the "mechanical" operation of most everything sure eliminates alot of problems.
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John_P
I have owned both a 2002 Dodge CTD 24 valve truck which I have sold and a 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve which I still own and will hold on too for a long time.
I had alot of problems with my 2002 Dodge CTD 24 valve (two VP-44's, five lift pumps) and am glad I got rid of it. On the other hand, my 96' has given me excellent service and although it is far from stock now, it is still a very reliable, daily driven truck. The P-7100 fuel pump is very tough and the "mechanical" operation of most everything sure eliminates alot of problems.
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John_P
#12
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I would go with the newest truck you can afford. A 12v is a great engine but you will have a good running truck with a body that is falling apart around it. The newest 12v you are going to find is knocking on 10 years old. I would try to get an 03 or newer(3rd gen), they have four real doors and are pretty easy to find in a crew cab short bed. Eric
#13
BIG price difference though ^. Not sure how much he wants to spend because the 3rd gens are alot more than a 12v, but a 12v with a built auto and 3.54's would be my choice. I'd buy two 12v's and make one a speed demon, and the other a nice tow rig, and still be cheaper than most 3rd gens, lol.
#14
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Here in Oregon, unless you get lucky, everyone with a quadcab 12v is asking BIG bucks because they know they are the holy grail of dodge trucks.
I went with a 98.5 24 valve because it had the options I wanted.
I also want to point out that what you want to do should require two different trucks. Running fast times like that and trying to make it a good tow rig are mutually exclusive in my mind. I wanted a tow rig but I'd like a little better mileage so I got an Edge Juice w/Attitude for my 24 valve and thats it. Its got plenty of power to play with and it should be plenty reliable short of VP44 failure. I'm actually thinking about carrying my replacement pump with me . . .
Chass
ct
#15
Registered User
Another problem with hot rod tow rigs is that it is almost essential to have a manual tranny when your truck is turned up so you can select whatever gear is necessary to pull the grade with reasonable egt's. Problem is, I only know of like two trucks that are in the twelves and have a stick shifter. Auto's are for drag racing and manuals are for towing with too much horsepower. If you want a good tow rig/ hot rod, you will need electronic tuning= 24 valve.