12 Valve Governor
#1
12 Valve Governor
Hey guys,
So here's my situation:
A while back I had a 3K GSK installed in my truck. I love it and all was well. But, I ran into some trouble when I stripped the holes that holds the AFC cover on. It's a long and painful story. But, suffice it to say that I took the truck to a shop and had the governor housing replaced. While it was in the shop I had the timing advanced a tad bit (not sure exactly how much). But, since I got it back it will not rev up to 3000 rpms like it did before.
I have adjusted the governor springs. They were too loose. When accelerating it did fine but when idling back down there was a jerk at about 1200 rpms. I got that adjusted out of it. Right now the governor stud protrudes at roughly .045 just what the instructions from Pacbrake specifies. And, now it runs smooth as silk but absolutely will not rev past 2400 rpms. I really miss those extra rpms. Any ideas on how to get them back?
I am beginning to think the shop I had do the work replaced the governor springs with stock ones. But, it has not lost any of the throttle response the 3K springs gave it. Also, if my GSK was replaced with stockers would it help to put the small springs from a 4K gsk into the stockers? Would that make any difference? Thanks in advance!
So here's my situation:
A while back I had a 3K GSK installed in my truck. I love it and all was well. But, I ran into some trouble when I stripped the holes that holds the AFC cover on. It's a long and painful story. But, suffice it to say that I took the truck to a shop and had the governor housing replaced. While it was in the shop I had the timing advanced a tad bit (not sure exactly how much). But, since I got it back it will not rev up to 3000 rpms like it did before.
I have adjusted the governor springs. They were too loose. When accelerating it did fine but when idling back down there was a jerk at about 1200 rpms. I got that adjusted out of it. Right now the governor stud protrudes at roughly .045 just what the instructions from Pacbrake specifies. And, now it runs smooth as silk but absolutely will not rev past 2400 rpms. I really miss those extra rpms. Any ideas on how to get them back?
I am beginning to think the shop I had do the work replaced the governor springs with stock ones. But, it has not lost any of the throttle response the 3K springs gave it. Also, if my GSK was replaced with stockers would it help to put the small springs from a 4K gsk into the stockers? Would that make any difference? Thanks in advance!
#3
Would there be any way to identify the pump? Any numbers I can look at to tell if they put the same 180 pump I had on there or maybe replaced it with some other hp pump? Thanks!
#4
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Cannot find the link to Bosch # for the various pumps. Hopefully, somone will add the link.
Another thought
Possible the throttle is not opening fully?
Another thought
Possible the throttle is not opening fully?
#5
I checked the throttle and it seems to be fine. I did it according to the Chrysler service manual. The engine will free rev up well over 3K but it will only go up to about 2400 under a load. Is that not exactly what stockers do? The guy told me that all he did was replace the governor housing and not the entire pump. But, he had all the governor stuff out of the pump and I guess he could have mistakenly (or purposely) put stock springs back in it.
When he got the pump back together and was tweaking it he told me that my engine would free rev higher than any engine he had ever seen. He mainly works on agricultural application engines and he is definitely not a horsepower guru at all. He is definitely a "by the book" mechanic. He didn't really like it that I had an aftermarket fuel plate in there. But did go ahead and put the pump on a bench with it in there. So, my guess is that I'm gonna have to redo the GSK! So, how about that washer mod? Does it work as well as a new 3K springs?
Also, the 3K GSK kit installed earlier was acutally a 4K kit. I just left out the small inner spring. Do you guys think if I put the small inner spring in there it would make a difference? I intend on trying it out here in the next day or two but it's been too cold to get outside the past couple of days. Any suggestions appreciated!
When he got the pump back together and was tweaking it he told me that my engine would free rev higher than any engine he had ever seen. He mainly works on agricultural application engines and he is definitely not a horsepower guru at all. He is definitely a "by the book" mechanic. He didn't really like it that I had an aftermarket fuel plate in there. But did go ahead and put the pump on a bench with it in there. So, my guess is that I'm gonna have to redo the GSK! So, how about that washer mod? Does it work as well as a new 3K springs?
Also, the 3K GSK kit installed earlier was acutally a 4K kit. I just left out the small inner spring. Do you guys think if I put the small inner spring in there it would make a difference? I intend on trying it out here in the next day or two but it's been too cold to get outside the past couple of days. Any suggestions appreciated!
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#9
OK, now I am beginning to believe that it is something else besides the governor springs because now my rpm's are down to around 2100 and it acts like it is cutting out instead of governing out. When the rpm's get up to around 2100 it starts losing power and almost sounds like it's missing. Would a dirty fuel filter cause that? I ordered a one from Geno's Garage. It has definitely been a while since I changed the fuel filter. It's probably been well over a year...maybe longer.
#10
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Yes, a fuel filter can cause a "miss". I had the same issue last month and my filter was replaced in June.
Any component in the fuel delivery may cause the symptoms you describe
Make a quick check of all the fuel lines for a loose connection or missing clamp being you just had some major surgery on the IP
Any component in the fuel delivery may cause the symptoms you describe
Make a quick check of all the fuel lines for a loose connection or missing clamp being you just had some major surgery on the IP
#11
Hey, I got to thinking about something else that was done to the truck. I am still going to replace the fuel filter. But, a couple of weeks ago I put a set of injectors out of a 1998 truck with the 215 hp motor. But, before I put them in I had them "pop" tested and the pressure set back to 260 bar. The shop that did it said the injectors were right at 245 bar. And, I got to thinking about what the guy said. He told me that the injectors would run fine at 245 bar but that it would just advance the timing a little. So, would setting them back to 260 bar retard the timing a little. I did run those injectors a little at 245 bar and man they would scream and the truck would hit 3000 easily. But, since I had them set to 260 bar they still run very well but the truck don't go to 3000 rpms like it did. The reason I had the pressure set to 260 bar is because it smoked alot. It would haze at idle and if you got on it it would absolutely boil out the smoke. Would that make any difference?
#13
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I forgot to finish the sentence.
I've only noticed a pop & miss at higher RPM with very low stock timing. The change from the pop-off should not be any concern.
From the list of changes in your engine, a complete maintenance of the entire picture would be the best place to start. Look for any boost leaks, throttle linkage issues, fuel shut down solenoid operation, timing, fuel leaks, fuel filter, etc.
I've only noticed a pop & miss at higher RPM with very low stock timing. The change from the pop-off should not be any concern.
From the list of changes in your engine, a complete maintenance of the entire picture would be the best place to start. Look for any boost leaks, throttle linkage issues, fuel shut down solenoid operation, timing, fuel leaks, fuel filter, etc.