RichN

I want to swap my stock 12cc housing to a 14. What is involved in the swap? Is it a simple bolt on procedure or are there other modifications to the turbo necessary?

Truck is a 95 12v.

Thanks!

j-fox

No other mods are necessary.
Just unbolt the turbo, remove the exhaust housing and bolt the new on it.
Get a wastegated housing though, and maybe drill thru the center wall while it is off. This allows better cooling of the front cylinders.

kas83

Why?

Everyone I have talked to with Hybrid 35/40's has gone to a 14 cm non-gated housing and never looked back. They claim quicker spool up, and excellent cooling. And they didn't have any issues with boost getting too high, the fuel was well balanced for the turbo setup. You don't need a wastegate unless seriously overfueled.

LanceD

I have a similar question, I was thinking of getting an 18.5 housing and putting it on mine along with the HTT stage 3 compressor wheel, is that what most do with that kind of setup? sorry for the jack, didn't feel it needed a new thread

j-fox

If you don't have the fuel to spool it high it will be ok.
But there is more to it than just boost. Drive pressure is back pressure and if the excess cal get around the turbine then it will lower the drive pressure.
high boost with a 35 creates heat and that is detrimental to power.
35-40 psi is out of the range of efficiency of the hx35.

G1625S

I'm not trying to step on any toes, just typing from experience. I run an HTT 60mm compressor wheel with a 12cm w/g housing and love it. A non-gated 14 would be fine to 'x' amount of fuel, but that's it. For a p-pump engine, maybe 300 RWHP and that's it. More fuel than that and the 14 would overspeed the turbo...

my_samurai

so what is good for a set of jammer III's, and edge juice ...14cm non, or wastegated

kas83

This thread is about going from a 12 to a 14, and was recommended he got a wastegated housing. I was comparing gated and non-gated 14's in my statement, not a 12. To me, there is no sense in upgrading the cold side when you leave the small hot side on it. If you have the fuel to warrant a larger compressor, but leave the hot side the same, you're defeating the purpose. A larger turbine decreases the drive pressure. And the larger compressor moves a larger volume of air for a given boost setting. I have seen a couple of HTT 60/14 non-gated hybrids make 350 hp on a 12 valve, at 38 psi of boost, and EGT's of approx 1200 sustained WOT. That 38 psi is alot more efficient than a 35/12 is, and that was wide open to boot. My 95 will be getting one of those turbos mentioned, as soon as I upgrade my torque converter and valve body. They have been replaced with S300 variants in either 64mm or 66mm compressors. The guys that had them loved them, but have gone way bigger on fuel and power in hopes of trying to be competitive at the pulls.

I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm not saying I'm right, just stating what I have personally seen and worked on/with.

thewished

Ricer style blow off valve or two and your good to go if you do not tow and before you add more fuel you plan to upgrade your turbo again... JMO

Alwaysworking

is this good for towing 15,000 pounds everyday?
HTT 60/14 non-gated just woundering