100HP Industrial Injection 100HP stick with Power Puck?
#1
100HP Industrial Injection 100HP stick with Power Puck?
Guys,
I am debating on combining the parts from the two trucks in my signature. I have an HX35 on the way to replace the HY on the 01. I am selling the 98 and am thinking about swaping injectors first. I am working on a new line setup with pre-filter return and new fittings for the 01. I will be testing that with a carter pump. If it does not work I will upgrade, of course....but I am working on a theory. Also, I don't two real heavy loads so I think the HX35 should be fine.
My question is if anyone has run this combo and knows what kind of power the two will make? I know that stacking of power claims is not always exactly what you come up with.
Thanks!
I am debating on combining the parts from the two trucks in my signature. I have an HX35 on the way to replace the HY on the 01. I am selling the 98 and am thinking about swaping injectors first. I am working on a new line setup with pre-filter return and new fittings for the 01. I will be testing that with a carter pump. If it does not work I will upgrade, of course....but I am working on a theory. Also, I don't two real heavy loads so I think the HX35 should be fine.
My question is if anyone has run this combo and knows what kind of power the two will make? I know that stacking of power claims is not always exactly what you come up with.
Thanks!
#2
Sounds pretty similar to what I'm running. I *think* the puck doesn't do boost fooling, and with the sticks plus puck I'd want to turn the boost up. I'd do it, but I'd also get a boost fooler and boost elbow. I don't know what mine really makes. I did sticks then chip/boost elbow. It goes faster!
I run a Carter on the frame rail, too. Run it off a relay to take the load off the relay inside the pcm. Unless you want to crack the pcm when the relay goes bad... Frame rail mounting gets the pump: away from heat and vibration, and puts it BELOW the tank (no dry priming) making for a MUCH more reliable setup. Plus other than the plug and fittings it's the same pump. But less than half the price if I remember right.
I run a Carter on the frame rail, too. Run it off a relay to take the load off the relay inside the pcm. Unless you want to crack the pcm when the relay goes bad... Frame rail mounting gets the pump: away from heat and vibration, and puts it BELOW the tank (no dry priming) making for a MUCH more reliable setup. Plus other than the plug and fittings it's the same pump. But less than half the price if I remember right.
#3
Guys,
I am debating on combining the parts from the two trucks in my signature. I have an HX35 on the way to replace the HY on the 01. I am selling the 98 and am thinking about swaping injectors first. I am working on a new line setup with pre-filter return and new fittings for the 01. I will be testing that with a carter pump. If it does not work I will upgrade, of course....but I am working on a theory. Also, I don't two real heavy loads so I think the HX35 should be fine.
My question is if anyone has run this combo and knows what kind of power the two will make? I know that stacking of power claims is not always exactly what you come up with.
Thanks!
I am debating on combining the parts from the two trucks in my signature. I have an HX35 on the way to replace the HY on the 01. I am selling the 98 and am thinking about swaping injectors first. I am working on a new line setup with pre-filter return and new fittings for the 01. I will be testing that with a carter pump. If it does not work I will upgrade, of course....but I am working on a theory. Also, I don't two real heavy loads so I think the HX35 should be fine.
My question is if anyone has run this combo and knows what kind of power the two will make? I know that stacking of power claims is not always exactly what you come up with.
Thanks!
#4
yep I'll agree. Install a holley blue on the frame, remove the brass screen in the bottom of the holley, wire it w/12ga wire and install a spin-on LP pre-filter to make sure clean fuel gets to it. Easy and the cheapest most reliable LP upgrade you can do. It's worked flawless for 3+ years.
#6
Wow, I've had the Carter on the frame rail for more than a few years. Never a problem. Besides, that's what Chrysler put on them stock. They just put it in THE stoopidest place and powered it in THE funkiest way. We must be talking about different pumps. Mine looks just like the stocker except has npt fittings instead of metric stor fittings.
#7
Dodge/Chrysler designed and engineered the rest of the truck also and look at them falling apart. Majority of the people on DTR will tell you to ditch the carter and upgrade to anyone of the other options. IMO, I'd ditch the power puck for an adrenaline or edge juice you'll have way more functionality and they'll do the boost fooling also.
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#8
Probably should bite my tongue, but I'll point out that the OP stated he's planning on using a Carter. I'm well aware of the number of folks running the high end lift pumps.
Mebbe I'm wrong, but I disagree that the Carter is a bad pump. I think it gets a bad wrap due to how Chrysler mounted and powered it.
The exception I would note is if you go over about 500hp worth of fueling at which point a second inline pump (Carters are internally regulated) or a FASS or Airdog would be in order. But before worrying about any of those things attention should be paid to the banjo fittings which are the sole limiting factor to flow below this level of power. Easily drilled out or purchased.
Mebbe I'm wrong, but I disagree that the Carter is a bad pump. I think it gets a bad wrap due to how Chrysler mounted and powered it.
The exception I would note is if you go over about 500hp worth of fueling at which point a second inline pump (Carters are internally regulated) or a FASS or Airdog would be in order. But before worrying about any of those things attention should be paid to the banjo fittings which are the sole limiting factor to flow below this level of power. Easily drilled out or purchased.
#9
Yep, I'll def agree.
#11
A boost elbow is a device that goes between the pressure side of the air charge on the turbo and the waste gate actuator. It has a flow restrictor and a bleed off port. The bleed off port lowers the pressure delivered to the actuator and the flow restrictor limits the amount of lost flow to a very negligible amount of flow.
So what it effectively does is holds the wastegate closed to a higher pressure which makes the turbo capable of delivering more pressure but without losing the safety and extra exhaust flow of the waste gate function.
Mine screwed into the little elbow on the pressure housing. Looked like 1/8" npt pipe thread if I remember right, but it's been a while since I looked. I've heard of folks making their own.
So what it effectively does is holds the wastegate closed to a higher pressure which makes the turbo capable of delivering more pressure but without losing the safety and extra exhaust flow of the waste gate function.
Mine screwed into the little elbow on the pressure housing. Looked like 1/8" npt pipe thread if I remember right, but it's been a while since I looked. I've heard of folks making their own.
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