Just wondering if anyone has a number 10 plate they could trace the profile of so I can grind my stock plate that way? I have a #11 right now, but you know the story...... More, more more.........

TIA
R...

 

Look up

Infidels photo gallery. he has a killer set of pictures on plates....

Rick

ON EDIT

better yet, ill do it for ya... here u are... this should help u...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=1

 

Hello everyone kind of looking for the same here i would like a template for a number 10 profile i have a plate to grind i am also looking to do a 6 and an 8 style profile so if any of you could provide a template of any of the 3 profiles it would be great. Please help so the fun may begin Rattlerbob

 

i would ask you to trace the profile of your 11, before you grind it down!

i have never seen a number 11!!! the 12 yeah! is the 11 lot diferent?

thnks!

 

How are you guts cutting the fuel plates and how do you get them smooth

 

I use an angle grinder with an 80 grit flapper disc.

 

This is my method

What I do is use a "Sharpie" permanent marker to mark the rough profile you want to achieve. Then I grind it on the bench grinder to the "Sharpie" line. Now you need to make sure that when you're doing the initial grinding on the bench grinder that you DO NOT use excessive force on the plate to grind it down faster! You should be able to hold the plate with your bare hands while grinding, when it starts to get hot take it off the grinder and what I do is use the grinder like a fan and let the cold air off the running grinder help keep the plate cool. Once it cools down enough continue grinding to the "Sharpie" line. Once you get the initial grinding done then use a high speed rotary tool preferably a Dremel Tool, that's what I use. Use a 1/2" drum sander attachment with a very coarse sanding drum. Then use a finer one. Then I use 180 grit emery cloth to buff out the grinding gouges, this takes a few trial runs, then go to 360 grit emery cloth or something close. Once the scratches become a uniform size and it almost looks good enough to install move on to 600 grit "wet" "dry" sand paper and sand it wet. Again once the finish becomes finer move on to 1000 grit "wet" "dry" and sand it wet. Then when I achieve my goal I use a felt buff on my Dremel with Simi-Chrome all metal polish to achieve a "mirror" finish, you could probably use any metal polish. Now a few people WILL say your wasting your time polishing it to a mirror finish do what you want but I say B*^& SH*&!!! If the surface is super slick that means less resistance right? So less resistance = more power. Plus if you look at just about any plate that has been run for a while you'll see a worn track in the plate. I've seen my plate(s) after many miles on them and no wear marks, I attribute this to the mirror finish. No wear on the plate means little or no friction which also means things are just operating smoother.

 

12valve bd makes an #11

 

Thanks for all the replies all......... I will get some pictures of the stock to #10 when I get it done. The #11 is good, the 10 should be AWESOME!!!

R...

 

Just a word of caution, the picture posted by Infodel looks like an exagerated example. My stock plate didn't have anywhere near the steps the stock plate in that drawing shows, and my #10 had only a slight arc to it, not an almost half circle like the drawing shows. The pics I've seen of #100 plates also don't have nearly the sudden drop the drawing shows, but more of a 45 degree angle with a radius at the corner.

Here is a question for those who know. I have the #10 plate right now, and I notice that it almost feels like I have a 2-stroke bike engine under the hood, because of the way the power kicks in. If I lug the truck down to 1000 rpms with the TC locked up, then give it full throttle, the power builds very slowly until about 1250 rpms, then it kicks me in the butt like I was rear ended by a BIG truck. Looking at the plate, I assume the big hit comes where the curve ends toward the middle of the plate, then drops off suddenly. If thats the case, could I grind down just the top of the end of the curve, so I carry more power before the surge, and the surge wouldn't be as big? I would still have the same top end power, but I would think the power would be smoother. It would come out almost like a 100, but not as aggressive. I hope my explanation is clear enough...I don't want to go through making a drawing and waiting for approval to post it.

Jim

 

Both my stocker and my #10 look exactly like Infidel's drawings.

 

My stoker had the same shape, just that the steps weren't as deep. Same with the #10. Mine had maybe a 3/32" deep arc. I wish I had taken a pic before installing it...and I have already reground my stocker to a 100 to try out after doing my tranny swap. I won't leave it in, I like the 10, but I just want to try it for grins.

Jim

 

The stocker in the picture is from a '97 manual trans. There are four different stock plates depending on the year and an auto vs manual transmission.
There really isn't a standard #100, it's whatever the person grinds it to.

Jim, I would be surprised if your #10 is even using much of the upper ramp on the plate unless your governor arm is out of adjustment. Sounds more like turbo lag to me.
You can tell how much of the plate is being used by looking at the front edge, it will usually have wear marks.

 

Yep - watch your Boost gage at 1200rpm, keeping an eye on it as rpm increases and you feel the power surge.

Gages tell it like it is................

My 10 looks like the nike check.

 

Allrighty then......... I guess the question I have, is that the actual #10 shape that ws posted? Can anyone trace the actual profile?

R...