Welding Rod characteristics
#1
Welding Rod characteristics
Was just given 30 lbs of 10018-m1 welding rod. Anybody familiar with this one?
Was also given 50 lbs of 6011 1/8 red rod. Near same as grey 6011?
Give me the scoop guys, and thanks. I dug around for a good electrode chart, but nothing seems to fit.
Ed
Was also given 50 lbs of 6011 1/8 red rod. Near same as grey 6011?
Give me the scoop guys, and thanks. I dug around for a good electrode chart, but nothing seems to fit.
Ed
#2
7018 is your typical welding rod for low carbon steels. This is the stuff farmer brown uses daily. it has a 70,000 psi tensile strength.
10018 is for high carbon steels (with appropriate pre heat and post weld heat treatment) it has 100,000 psi tensile strength.
I dont see anything on Esab's website on the 6011, but they have a 6013 listed for mild steel. Its most likely a 60,000 psi tensile with less carbon than the XX18 series.
One thing to be cautious of is how the rods were stored. if they have gotten wet or been stored in an unsealed container, The flux will absorb hydrogen and the weld will be weaker than expected. Idealy, you need to use welding rods within a day of breaking the seal on the box or store them in an oven at about 250 to 300 degrees.
We build pressure vessels so most of my knowledge of welding pretain to meeting ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel code. For structural welds, this might not be a problem.
EDIT: http://www.esab.com has alot of information on welding products but it takes some digging to find specifics like this.
10018 is for high carbon steels (with appropriate pre heat and post weld heat treatment) it has 100,000 psi tensile strength.
I dont see anything on Esab's website on the 6011, but they have a 6013 listed for mild steel. Its most likely a 60,000 psi tensile with less carbon than the XX18 series.
One thing to be cautious of is how the rods were stored. if they have gotten wet or been stored in an unsealed container, The flux will absorb hydrogen and the weld will be weaker than expected. Idealy, you need to use welding rods within a day of breaking the seal on the box or store them in an oven at about 250 to 300 degrees.
We build pressure vessels so most of my knowledge of welding pretain to meeting ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel code. For structural welds, this might not be a problem.
EDIT: http://www.esab.com has alot of information on welding products but it takes some digging to find specifics like this.
#3
Farmer brown type welding is what I do most. Some finish type work like bumpers, farm trailors and the like.
Just never heard of the 10018 before. Thanks. I do have a rod safe at home, but this amount will probably have to be tucked away.
Ed
Just never heard of the 10018 before. Thanks. I do have a rod safe at home, but this amount will probably have to be tucked away.
Ed
#4
You can use 10018 in place of 7018, they weld a bit differently than 7018.
The 10018 will be a stronger material and more prone to breaking instead of bending than the 7018. (especially without a post weld heat treatment)
EDIT: Here is Esab's page on 10018-M welding rods. http://www.esab.com/index.asp?item=79937
The 10018 will be a stronger material and more prone to breaking instead of bending than the 7018. (especially without a post weld heat treatment)
EDIT: Here is Esab's page on 10018-M welding rods. http://www.esab.com/index.asp?item=79937
#6
I used that 10018 rod a few times when we made a water tank and we used some pretty heavy steel for the bottom.I forget the name of the steel but it is harder than mild steel. I like the 6011 rod for doing space welding or exhaust pipes, sometimes on a root weld when there are gaps to fill. It is a fast freeze rod and works good for me. I hate 6013 because it makes flux pockets in the weld and always looks ugly unless you have it on hi heat. 7018 is my favorite for most of my welding. A good all purpose rod and strong. Almost always looks professional when done. Then we get into TIG welding, That is the absolute best for strength and appearance pluss you can do aluminum. Every welder has it's strengths and drawbacks and types of welding it does best.
#7
What happened to 7014, I have used it for years, great all positon rod. The 7018 always struck me as a great rod, possibly the best for someone that keeps in professional use. The 7014 is a much better rod for someone like me that is a good welder, but not so much done anymore. Also the hands are not as steady as a few years ago.
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#8
7014 is a good rod, but I prefer the 7018. I don't remember for sure (senior moment) but I think it has more splatter and is harder to chip. I think it also has an iron powder flux that makes it easy to use. I'd have to get my book out to be sure.
#9
OK Here goes with my .02. The 6011 is the stick that use the most. It is all position and works great on repair welding where your metal may not be as cleans as fab work.
The 6013 will make a smoother, flatter weld, but will not penetrate as well as the 6011.
I favor the 6011 for welding around the farm.
jmho
wayne
The 6013 will make a smoother, flatter weld, but will not penetrate as well as the 6011.
I favor the 6011 for welding around the farm.
jmho
wayne
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