Pipes

If you know what type and size of pipe it is, I have flow charts for every type of pipe manufactured, we could calculate the pressure loss exactly Nevertheless, a pressure tank(100 gallon) with a 3/4" jockey pump with a pressure switch set at 65 PSI would be your cheapest way to generate extra PSI and flow. You might as well use his pump to get the water to your house, once its there just put these add-ons in place and you should be all set.

Raspy

If the neighbor stopped the problem by shutting off your line then it is definately an intermitant leak on your side. You can simply plumb in a gauge on the house side of the valve and watch it with the shutoff open and closed. No need for air, just watch the water gauge. If it drops with your valve closed there is a leak. It's not the bladder tank because those don't fix themselves and work sometimes But if the bladder is low on pressure or the air tank waterlogged, the pump cycling will happen with a smaller and smaller amount of water loss. So a small leak, like a dripping faucet, will cause cycling. It is most likely a foot valve that is sometimes leaking, but only if the problem is NOT related to shutting off your supply valve. You could prove this by installing another check between the well head and the pressure switch. But it would be best not to leave that check as a fix, just a test. Otherwise you might damage the pump or something else by having the line drain back and then the pump starting.

Wetspirit

neveragain

I should have but have to go to bed and get up at 0230. They make a pressure tank with internal bladder. Maybe a building part way from ??? his house assuming power from his house to be considered. You might consider a larger pipe to your house. Or the pressure tank in your house to boost pressure, they are adjustable. Checking for leaks. Sorry if this is redundant or just conferms what others are saying.

12valve@heart

Since you are planning to sink a well eventually anyway, buying a pressure tank that will work with your future well wouldn't be wasted money and will boost your pressure until then.

PistolWhipt

Hey all,

I got a little more info about the line to my house .... from of all people ... the phone company. They finally got out there today to bury our phone line (after the county grader dug it up) and ended up busting our water line.
Found out that it is 1 1/2" pvc line with a branch coming off to an old trailer site (dead ended). The repair guy had to hunt down the valve to shut off the water and then filled in Mrs. Pistol on the details.

Strange thing is that the family has not made any adjustments to their daily usage nor fixed anything in the house ... but yet the neighbor says that the pump has been working fine for several days .

This really makes me suspect the pressure switch. I have had a few pressure differential switches act funny like that on the ship. I usually contributed that to the salt air. Maybe age or temperature effects this one sometimes. I'm at a loss.

12 valve ... I agree about the tank. May be the route I take.

PISTOL

PistolWhipt

I almost forgot ... one of the phone company guys asked if I wanted to sell our 29' TT. The wife said sure ... probably ask about 5k and he said he was still interested.

Now I'm thinking, maybe he knows someone who would work a deal to sink a well in trade. Depending how deep they have to go, I might be able to have them toss in enough cash to pick up a pump as well.

I'd really like my own well, not only for the house but to irrigate the orchard as well.

That would sure be a win / win if I could make that work out. If any of you close-by Missouri /Arkansas neighbors care to work a deal like that I would sure be willing to barter.

PISTOL

Pipes

Wow 1 1/2, thats great. that pipe has a flow rate of 36 GPM with a friction loss of around 2.11 per 100' . We will assume that the pump has the capcaity to run at the maximum tolerances of this pipe. Not inculding head you are seeing a pressure drop of around 26.71 PSI. A basic head formula we will use is.433 PSI loss for every foot. So you are losing another 10 PSI total due to elevation change, for a total of 36.71 PSI. There is no way for us to know how many other dead end runs are present on this system so a proper calculation will be very difficult. But it looks like you have more then enough water at your disposal. A good way to increase pressure is to reduce pipe sizes. It will reduce anyway once in enters the home and that reduction will increase pressure slightly. In addition to that, a thing you might wanna try is to decrease the size of the pipe before it enters the house. perhaps 1 1/4 for the last 40 feet or so before it enters your house.

In your last post you also mentioned that the system was working fine for the last 3 days or so, Thats great news, and A faulty pressure switch could definatly be the cause of you problems.Those pressure switches are never a bad thing to replace, they go out often, and should be checked yearly anyway. It may be the best 40 dollars you ever spent just replacing the darn thing.

I would also test that supply line out as well, Like Wetspirt said, a test at this time would be easy to do with water. A acceptable test would be no more then a drop of 2-3 PSI for 2 hours.

I Also agree with 12 Valve, a pressure tank would be a great addition for you.

Good luck.

Redleg

WOnder if the rapid discharge of the broken main freed up something fouling the check valve? Also Pipes, isn't 1" standard for a supply line?

Pipes

If you are asking me what a standard size water supply to a house is from a municipal water source. I guess it depends on what your demand is. I know some communities have a larger water supply provided to homes for fire protection purposes(fire sprinklers). I Also know of communites that have a "Water co-op" where you can have a larger water supply provided, if you become a member of this co-op. In some cases a increase of 1/2" pipe to 3/4 " can cost upwards of 15,000 bucks(Usually roughed in as 3/4 or greater, just has a flow restrictor in place which they remove once you become a member). Generally speaking, you will most allways have a 3/4" in supply which will reduce in size as the water is needed in the upper floors of your home. However I have seen some older communitys with a 5/8" copper pipe supply. And some with 1" or greater. I guess what I am trying to say is ,the municipalities will be their own "authority having jurisdiction" on a matter such as water supply.