what kind of under coating would you guys recomend? I had some stuff put on by the dealer ship and it is starting to chip and flake off. I have heard that using asphalt base roofing tar mixed with Stoddard solvent or equivalent work well.<br><br>Jason

 

The stuff I think works well is the tan wax like material. I think it may work the best on a brand new vehicle though. It is thin like water and is able to seep into all the cracks and crevices. What I did on my old ram was to power flush the underside very well and then I used a rocker shoots gun with cans of black ruberized undercoating. I sprayed the heck out of the underside. The only bust I had was a hole on each rocker. The rest of the truck was solid, and that was 300,000 miles and 10 years in minn.

 

Try to find someone in your area who has a &quot;wax&quot; base rust inhibitor system. They are also known as parafin base. The important thing is make sure it is an INHIBITOR system. Most inhibting systems will have a clear to yellow tint to the inner panel material, and a heavier black product for the undercoating. Both will be inhibitors. Inhibtors are much better in preserving metal than the sealers. Also look at the warranty if any is available. See what kind of maintence is due to maintain the warranty. Some types (tar) of rustproofing require that you take the vehicle back every couple of years to have it &quot;re-juiced&quot;. This is because generally the tar types will dry out, become brittle, and fall of. This will not occur with a wax base rust inhibiting system. The only maintence you have to do with wax base products are touch up, generally the wheel wells (stone chips) every year or two depending on how you use your vehicle. The wax base undercoatings are not bullet proof but, they will not allow pocketing (moisture creep) the way the tar types do. These wax base types of uundercoating are self healing, and will not dry out. The self healing is dependant upon what size rocks you're throughing off the tires. The old &quot;tar&quot; type sealers that some people still spray are usually short lived as you are finding out. The problem with the &quot;tar&quot; types is that once the seal is broken due to say stone chipping, moisture creeps (pocketing) in through the hole and starts to loosening the product that is still on the metal. That's the same way rust will start when your paint gets chipped and not touched up; the &quot;bubbling&quot; starts.

 

An Afterthought:<br><br>Chrysler used to have an in-house rustproofing package available at many of their dealers. It was called Master Shield. This is one of those wax based products as mentioned in prior post. Master Shield was/is made by an international company called Waxoyl. This in my opinion is the best rust inhibitor on the market. One thing also; rustproofing like any other man applied product is only as good as the person appling it.