Truck Under Coating
#1
Truck Under Coating
Ok, call me a blonde(which I am) but for reasons still unknown to me I did not have the dealer undercoat my truck when I bought it. So I figured I'd give it a go myself since I could probally do a better job myself.
What I was wondering is if anyone knew what kind and brand of undercoating the dealer uses and what is avaliable to the general public. I would like some good quality coating (ignoring price) and where I can get it.
Also since i've never put any on and never even seen any put on, what areas do I need to make sure that I DON'T undercoat and what areas do I need to FOR SURE coat?
I'm also figureing I'll don a full tyvec coverall and a cheap throw away full face mask to keep it off of me while under the truck will that be adequate to keep the stuff off me?
Sorry for all the ?'s
Mike
What I was wondering is if anyone knew what kind and brand of undercoating the dealer uses and what is avaliable to the general public. I would like some good quality coating (ignoring price) and where I can get it.
Also since i've never put any on and never even seen any put on, what areas do I need to make sure that I DON'T undercoat and what areas do I need to FOR SURE coat?
I'm also figureing I'll don a full tyvec coverall and a cheap throw away full face mask to keep it off of me while under the truck will that be adequate to keep the stuff off me?
Sorry for all the ?'s
Mike
#3
Everything I hear about undercoating is, "Don't do it!" The vehicles built years ago had little to no metal conditioning. Undercoating sorta helped but did nothing about the areas that normally rusted through because you couldn't get to those areas with the undercoating. Then, if the undercoating pulled loose, it just trapped water against the metal. IMHO, just keep the crud washed from under your truck and make sure the panel/door drain holes are open so water can drain out.
#4
I generally used Ziebart and Tuff coat, and just paid the price. They have a good product and know all the places to drill out so they can get the long wand inside those hard to reach places. Places that you will never touch without the long wands. After it's been done for a while, take the door pannels off and make sure the door drains are open. The scotch gard for the interior is a good investment too. Good luck
#5
You can buy 3M undercoating, and a cheap,simple gun for putting it on, hooks to an air compressor. The gun is made for the jugs of 3M, you just unscrew the jug lid and screw the gun on, replace emptys with full ones and keep spraying. I used about 12 jugs, I think they are quarts, but I put it on THICK on some spots. Squirted it into anywhere on the body work where water could collect and start rust, besides the big flat spots, like the bottom side of the floor. I coated a lot of stuff the dealer prob. wouldn't, like the spring mounts,bumper mounts,etc. Didn't do exhaust,drivelines,engine,trans,differentials.
It is easy and not much overspray on the body, it wipes off easy from the bodywork when still wet. I wore old clothes and safety glasses. It is easy to do, and it sticks good, looks great
1 year later.
It is easy and not much overspray on the body, it wipes off easy from the bodywork when still wet. I wore old clothes and safety glasses. It is easy to do, and it sticks good, looks great
1 year later.
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#8
light oil based is best... the more it drips, the better it gets into the little cracks... this is for rust proofing, not undercoating... i think krown rust control products is the best out there... rust check is maybe 2nd...
#9
I would use POR 15. You can buy reducer to use it in a regular spray gun, or you can just brush it on. This stuff converts rust into a hard coat of primer. Make sure you get the UV protected stuff, otherwise it turns into a greyish green with time. You can also paint over it.
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Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
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08-09-2003 02:01 AM