Evenin, DTR.
I just got a great deal on some garage floor paint, I've been wanting to do it for a while.

Any tips? This is one of the few home improvement projects I have not done before.

I have some expansion seams I want to fill with a caulk or the like, I'd like to know what would be good to use... I want the floor to be nice and smooth.

I am going to move everything out and use a concrete cleaner to clean the floor first, I have a nice floor scrubber brush. I'll use some de-greaser to get a few spots up if there is anything left. Am I missing anything?

Thanks!!!

mad

 

Has the floor been painted previously? I cut in the edges first and then divide the floor into quadrants.....then go to town. I also etch the floor with muratic acid before I paint. Use an elastomeric caulk on the joints.

 

Mad,

Here's the Rusto vids on their product #3 & 6 :

http://rustoleum.com/cbgresourcecenter.asp?sn=vd3

Did you get a kit or something at a garage sale?

How wide are the cracks/voids ?

 

No, sir, it has not. Cut in the edges? And, the Muratic acid... just pour it on and... ?

I'll look at those vids when I get home tonight...

Craigs list... two kits for 50 bucks!

Inch and a half, maybe two at the most.

 

The kits will have a dvd with the vids on it, a caustic cleaner to do the floor with and the color chips too..

I would use some non shrinking grout to fill the cracks with Hommer / Lowes should have it in sacks.. clean out the voids with compressed air / ect then mix the grout a little on the wet side it will lay down nice and smooth.

Just remember stay away from the kegerator until the job is done or you will be painting yourself into a corner.. probably the one with the kegerator in it if I know you. what color did you get?

 

Muratic acid at about 9 parts water to 1 part acid. Mop it on then rinse with clear water.

 

I disagree with the non shrink grout. It has no expansion/contraction capability. Use the caulking. NP1 if you have a commercial supply house......or one from Lowe's will do.

 

The floor has cured and settled the movement will be minimal..(He's in AZ I doubt there will be any frost pushing things around) Will the epoxy paint stick to the NP1? is it a silicone or latex base?

 

Mark I used the Rustoleum kit in my garage and after it was done it looked very good but it will not hold up to salt or high traffic. I know you're in AZ so you won't really have alot of salt to deal with. You can see where the truck hase pulled in to the garage, very disinct tracks of missing paint where the tires roll over the floor. It looked good for about a year and after a year the coating started to peel and flake off in some spots. For my use I am gonna use something heavier next time but I think the rustoleum should work well for you in the desert climate.

The muratic acid wash is a must, I also suggest sanding the concrete too. You wanna make sure you have a good base to start with. Also if there are any oil or grease spots, use a good degreaser and power washer on them. The acid won't remove oil or grease spots. When I did my garage I washed the floor a few times before I felt it was ready to be painted.

 

I just got one of the boxes open, wow... a dvd. Don't worry, there is a door in that corner!
The kit comes with cleaner, but thanks! (didn't know that before)

I think it's latex, but I don't know. Don't they have a concrete patch/sealant caulk?
I plan on washing the heck out of it. I will not be parking in it, neither one of the vehicles will fit!


Thanks for all the info, guys.

 

Caulk after you have painted.......slab may have cured but the base material under the concrete may cause it to shift as it expands and contracts. As I think of it use SL-1 caulk. It is self leveling and is made for use on sidewalks and expansion joints, it also comes in many colors and you will be able to find a close match for your paint. I've done thousands of square feet for aircraft hangers.........you won't have any difficulty painting your garage.

 

I did my laundry room floor several years ago with Benjamin Moore concrete paint. Before I did it, I washed the floor well with Trisodium Phosphate and water, and made sure I let it sit for several days to let the concrete dry completely from the washing. I feel it was very important to have every bit of moisture dried up before I applied the paint. I have been very happy with the finish, and have never had any peeling or blistering.

 

That makes sense. Good info.
Too late, I already have the stuff.

 

Since you already have the stuff its probably too late but: I recently had to buy some muriatic acid. One of the major hardware places had diluted acid for $8 bucks a gallon, another had "green" concrete cleaner which didnt work for me. They said they could no longer get regular. Last place had the good stuff for $5 bucks a gallon. It sure paid to shop around.

 

Thanks, Bark. The kit comes with the concrete stripper.


Nice to know you care

I wonder if I should buy some MA and do that too? Can't hurt. It seems like it will be a 2 day job, clean and wait, then pain... wait 24 hours to dry... I'm edgy about leaving 20k worth of stuff in the back yard. I'll have to sleep on the tarp that's covering it!