New to Dodge 1500 (front bearing question)
06-29-2010, 01:19 PM
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New to Dodge 1500 (front bearing question) 4x4
Hi guyz Im a shade-tree mechanic working in my driveway on my back so tips and tricks help greatly. This is my first dodge product..got me a 1998 ram 1500 ....I need to do a front bearing for the driverside I have read most every post on it i can find for it on the forum... got all the right tools 10mm hex head for calipers, 12pt 14mm socket for 3 bolts on back, 6 point 1-11/16 socket for the axle nut ....even watch some vids on utube...
but i still have questions :
1.) The 3 bolts that need the 14mm socket that holds bearing assembly. I will need to remove these again down the line to do a inner seal thats weaping ever so slightly (what is the torque setting for reinstaling , and can i use anti-seize for easy removal later ?)
2.) The 1-11/16 axle nut Ive read several ways of breaking it loose from jumping on the breaker bar or putting a jack on it and jacking bar up even leaveing the bar resting on the ground and backing the vehicle up a little useing weight of truck to snap it loose.(all seem a bit abusive to drive train to me ) Heat seams to be popular way but all I have is plumber tourch and have found it to be lacking in the past. I have a bench with vice but i think this axle has more beef than my bench can take so breaking it loose in truck would at least hold it for me ... any tips on best way? (what is the torque setting for reinstaling , and can i use anti-seize for easy removal later ?)
3.) I need a good book about my truck, diagrams are king the local auto parts has chilton manuals they lack good illustrations any favorites you guyz use?
4.) Dose the 1998 ram 1500 comes with dada 44 front end standard if this is true is there a way to conferm this on axle?
but i still have questions :
1.) The 3 bolts that need the 14mm socket that holds bearing assembly. I will need to remove these again down the line to do a inner seal thats weaping ever so slightly (what is the torque setting for reinstaling , and can i use anti-seize for easy removal later ?)
2.) The 1-11/16 axle nut Ive read several ways of breaking it loose from jumping on the breaker bar or putting a jack on it and jacking bar up even leaveing the bar resting on the ground and backing the vehicle up a little useing weight of truck to snap it loose.(all seem a bit abusive to drive train to me ) Heat seams to be popular way but all I have is plumber tourch and have found it to be lacking in the past. I have a bench with vice but i think this axle has more beef than my bench can take so breaking it loose in truck would at least hold it for me ... any tips on best way? (what is the torque setting for reinstaling , and can i use anti-seize for easy removal later ?)
3.) I need a good book about my truck, diagrams are king the local auto parts has chilton manuals they lack good illustrations any favorites you guyz use?
4.) Dose the 1998 ram 1500 comes with dada 44 front end standard if this is true is there a way to conferm this on axle?
Last edited by NWDarkcloud; 06-29-2010 at 01:37 PM. Reason: forgot to mention its 4x4
07-01-2010, 03:26 PM
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Sad 4 questions not 1 answer after 3 days not 1 responce 130 views ,I was hopeing to get some answers before the week is over oh well it looked like a good forum ........
07-01-2010, 06:26 PM
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the reason your post didn't pull a lot of attention is that this is a diesel truck forum...
07-01-2010, 07:06 PM
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07-10-2010, 10:54 PM
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I used to have a 98 1500 4x4. When I got it, it was severely neglected and sat for a year prior. Needless to say I replaced just about every moving chassis part over the next 100k mi I put on it. The first wheel bearing I did, it took several hours of heating with pb blaster, and about 4 ft of leverage to get that big nut off. When it did, it took all the threads off the stub shaft with it (extra $150). Now when I do them I order a new nut before I even think about taking the wheel off, and drill a few small holes through the nut (parallel with the axle shaft) 180 degrees apart and drive a chisel through it to split the nut right off. Try not no nick the shaft much.
Haynes manual worked well for me. And yes anti-sieze everything!
Haynes manual worked well for me. And yes anti-sieze everything!
09-28-2010, 03:47 PM
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You do have a Dana 44.
Soak the big nut for days prior to taking it off. My friend had a nice 3/4" impact wrench, which spun mine right off, with no damage.
I would definitely use antisieze.
Not many posts or interest in the 1500's here, because it is a diesel forum. There are seldom any new posts in the 1500 section, hence the slow response. Regardless, there is still help to be given here, because many of the parts and procedures are the same or similar.
Soak the big nut for days prior to taking it off. My friend had a nice 3/4" impact wrench, which spun mine right off, with no damage.
I would definitely use antisieze.
Not many posts or interest in the 1500's here, because it is a diesel forum. There are seldom any new posts in the 1500 section, hence the slow response. Regardless, there is still help to be given here, because many of the parts and procedures are the same or similar.
09-29-2010, 12:19 PM
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I would soak as much as you can (not the brakes obviously) numerous times daily or twice daily before tearing into it and definately use antiseize when reassembling.
For the axle nut i've had good luck in the past just putting a cheater pipe on a breaker bar.
Good luck with the project.
For the axle nut i've had good luck in the past just putting a cheater pipe on a breaker bar.
Good luck with the project.
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10-13-2010, 09:57 AM
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I've had a few of the 1500s as well as heavier trucks so I'll add my late two cents.
PB Blaster and Kroil are your friends. There is also a recipe for home brew penetrant that is supposed to be better than anything you can buy, it's 50% ATF and 50% benzene if I recall correctly. Benzene is said to be nasty stuff though. You might also want to rap on heavier metallic parts both the break rust free and to set up a harmonic frequency which can aid capillary movement of the penetrant into the rusty joints. The next tool mentioned will also help you here.
A good 1/2" drive impact wrench with an impact extension and impact socket will break the axle nut free, non-impact extensions and sockets spring too much and absorb the force of your tool versus letting the tool do the work of removing the nut. Also make sure that the tire is bearing against the ground at this time to eliminate any movement of the hub which will dissipate the force before freeing the nut. I have also used a standard length 3/4" drive flex head breaker when I didn't have access to my air tools, just grip it and lift like you are doing a deadlift, use your legs!
When you get the axle nut, or any rusty fastener moving, reverse direction periodically and let the built up crud and rust drop out of the threads before trying to power through them, just as you would for metal tailings when using a tap or die. Most fasteners can be saved by this method, including the threads on the end of your axle shaft. Be smarter than the tool you're using or the machine you are working on.
A propane or Mapp torch should be enough to get the axle nut hot enough to back off, remember that you are only heating the nut, not the axle, and heat from the bottom up, but remember that you will probably fry the seal in the bearing assembly if you use a torch. A torch is a last resort when the bearing is to be reused.
Use the socket/power steering method of hub removal if you can, any method which involves a puller on the hub flange will damage if not out right ruin your bearing assembly, however you can use a 3 or 4 jaw puller against the inner flange with the forcing screw on the end of the axle shaft to push the shaft out after the bearing is free of the knuckle. A hammer and chisel or good air hammer with chisel bit can also be used to break the bearing away from the knuckle. The air hammer with a pointed bit can be used to push the axle shaft from the splined hub but do this after the bearing is freed from the knuckle.
Swab a little Dexron ATF on that inner axle seal, it will make it swell and you'll get a little more life out of it. You'll need something long to get the fluid on a rag in there and be careful that you don't shove dirt from inside the axle tube into your differential. I've never had to replace one of the axle seals so I don't know how they are made but it would be worth finding out if they have a garter spring. If that is the case i would replace it at the first sign of leakage so that the spring doesn't wear a groove into the axle shaft.
DEFINITELY use Never Sieze! I've always used nickle, I have no experience or comment on the copper type.
I don't remember the torque spec for the bearing assembly but I never torque them anyway, just run `em in with the impact being careful to draw the housing in squarely. I believe that the initial torque for the axle nut is 85 ft/lbs as you roll the wheel to "seat" the bearing and then 168 ft/lbs final torque but I would look that up, you can over torque the assembly and put too much preload on the bearing which will lead to an early failure.
Hope this helps.
PB Blaster and Kroil are your friends. There is also a recipe for home brew penetrant that is supposed to be better than anything you can buy, it's 50% ATF and 50% benzene if I recall correctly. Benzene is said to be nasty stuff though. You might also want to rap on heavier metallic parts both the break rust free and to set up a harmonic frequency which can aid capillary movement of the penetrant into the rusty joints. The next tool mentioned will also help you here.
A good 1/2" drive impact wrench with an impact extension and impact socket will break the axle nut free, non-impact extensions and sockets spring too much and absorb the force of your tool versus letting the tool do the work of removing the nut. Also make sure that the tire is bearing against the ground at this time to eliminate any movement of the hub which will dissipate the force before freeing the nut. I have also used a standard length 3/4" drive flex head breaker when I didn't have access to my air tools, just grip it and lift like you are doing a deadlift, use your legs!
When you get the axle nut, or any rusty fastener moving, reverse direction periodically and let the built up crud and rust drop out of the threads before trying to power through them, just as you would for metal tailings when using a tap or die. Most fasteners can be saved by this method, including the threads on the end of your axle shaft. Be smarter than the tool you're using or the machine you are working on.
A propane or Mapp torch should be enough to get the axle nut hot enough to back off, remember that you are only heating the nut, not the axle, and heat from the bottom up, but remember that you will probably fry the seal in the bearing assembly if you use a torch. A torch is a last resort when the bearing is to be reused.
Use the socket/power steering method of hub removal if you can, any method which involves a puller on the hub flange will damage if not out right ruin your bearing assembly, however you can use a 3 or 4 jaw puller against the inner flange with the forcing screw on the end of the axle shaft to push the shaft out after the bearing is free of the knuckle. A hammer and chisel or good air hammer with chisel bit can also be used to break the bearing away from the knuckle. The air hammer with a pointed bit can be used to push the axle shaft from the splined hub but do this after the bearing is freed from the knuckle.
Swab a little Dexron ATF on that inner axle seal, it will make it swell and you'll get a little more life out of it. You'll need something long to get the fluid on a rag in there and be careful that you don't shove dirt from inside the axle tube into your differential. I've never had to replace one of the axle seals so I don't know how they are made but it would be worth finding out if they have a garter spring. If that is the case i would replace it at the first sign of leakage so that the spring doesn't wear a groove into the axle shaft.
DEFINITELY use Never Sieze! I've always used nickle, I have no experience or comment on the copper type.
I don't remember the torque spec for the bearing assembly but I never torque them anyway, just run `em in with the impact being careful to draw the housing in squarely. I believe that the initial torque for the axle nut is 85 ft/lbs as you roll the wheel to "seat" the bearing and then 168 ft/lbs final torque but I would look that up, you can over torque the assembly and put too much preload on the bearing which will lead to an early failure.
Hope this helps.
11-11-2010, 05:41 PM
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Hi guyz Im a shade-tree mechanic working in my driveway on my back so tips and tricks help greatly. This is my first dodge product..got me a 1998 ram 1500 ....I need to do a front bearing for the driverside I have read most every post on it i can find for it on the forum... got all the right tools 10mm hex head for calipers, 12pt 14mm socket for 3 bolts on back, 6 point 1-11/16 socket for the axle nut ....even watch some vids on utube...
but i still have questions :
1.) The 3 bolts that need the 14mm socket that holds bearing assembly. I will need to remove these again down the line to do a inner seal thats weaping ever so slightly (what is the torque setting for reinstaling , and can i use anti-seize for easy removal later ?)
2.) The 1-11/16 axle nut Ive read several ways of breaking it loose from jumping on the breaker bar or putting a jack on it and jacking bar up even leaveing the bar resting on the ground and backing the vehicle up a little useing weight of truck to snap it loose.(all seem a bit abusive to drive train to me ) Heat seams to be popular way but all I have is plumber tourch and have found it to be lacking in the past. I have a bench with vice but i think this axle has more beef than my bench can take so breaking it loose in truck would at least hold it for me ... any tips on best way? (what is the torque setting for reinstaling , and can i use anti-seize for easy removal later ?)
3.) I need a good book about my truck, diagrams are king the local auto parts has chilton manuals they lack good illustrations any favorites you guyz use?
4.) Dose the 1998 ram 1500 comes with dada 44 front end standard if this is true is there a way to conferm this on axle?
but i still have questions :
1.) The 3 bolts that need the 14mm socket that holds bearing assembly. I will need to remove these again down the line to do a inner seal thats weaping ever so slightly (what is the torque setting for reinstaling , and can i use anti-seize for easy removal later ?)
2.) The 1-11/16 axle nut Ive read several ways of breaking it loose from jumping on the breaker bar or putting a jack on it and jacking bar up even leaveing the bar resting on the ground and backing the vehicle up a little useing weight of truck to snap it loose.(all seem a bit abusive to drive train to me ) Heat seams to be popular way but all I have is plumber tourch and have found it to be lacking in the past. I have a bench with vice but i think this axle has more beef than my bench can take so breaking it loose in truck would at least hold it for me ... any tips on best way? (what is the torque setting for reinstaling , and can i use anti-seize for easy removal later ?)
3.) I need a good book about my truck, diagrams are king the local auto parts has chilton manuals they lack good illustrations any favorites you guyz use?
4.) Dose the 1998 ram 1500 comes with dada 44 front end standard if this is true is there a way to conferm this on axle?
Antisieze is your friend on most things but I would not use it on front end components.
If you loosened them bolts after ten years without effort, dont be a girlyman and do it again when it comes time.
(2) NEVER USE HEAT ON THEM AXLE NUTS.
Or any front end componant for that matter. You could weaken the integrity of the part itself.
Dont be a girlyman, breaker bar and MAN MUSCLE. (Oh, ok to use antisieze on the axle).
On another note, who told you to do such a thing about putting a socket on a breaker bar and stepping on the gas to loosten that axle nut? (guess you might have figured I tried that 35 years ago)
. DONT DO IT.Again, dont be a girlyman, breaker bar and socket.
Loosten the nut while the wheel is still on the vehicle and on the groung, (makes sense eh?) Oh, you might have to take off your hubcap?
(3) Well, manuals are what they are if your a greaser.
I had a mentor, his name was YODA and he tought me well my young Jedi friend.
If you have knowlege It just dont matter from one to another as long as you get your specs.
Otherwise, TAKE YOUR TIME.
Your doing the right thing coming here, just listen to us
.(4) No, It comes with a DANA 44
.There should be a tag on one of the differential cover bolts or you can remove the glove box door and bring it to your local Chrysler dealer to find out what you have?
On another note:
Yeh, them were pretty sad 4 questions.
Help your local economy and take it to a pro.
11-11-2010, 05:57 PM
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Im afraid.
Im was getting ready to retire and planning on having others do my mechanical work?
"Ummmm, honey, maybe you should go by yourself, I have to stay home and put air in my tires".
he said PB Blaster.
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