Honda Foreman valve adjustment
#1
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Honda Foreman valve adjustment
Hey guys, I need to do the valves on my 04 Foreman. It's been years since my last one and I'm a little rusty on remembering the details. ATV connection has no good info and I can't get on High Lifter (I think it's my dial-up). High Lifter was the place I got the info years ago from a guy on there. He had his own web-site with instructions, but again I forgot it. Can anyone help with some info or links? I guess buying a manual would be next. Thanx.
#2
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Found a thread on High Lifter that says 5 thousanths intake, and 6 thousants exhaust.
High Lifter seems to be running fine, and I'm on dail-up...
Edit: I also found a thread on ATV connection that indicated .006 for both, which is also the spec for my 05 500 Foreman, but they are a totally different engine.
High Lifter seems to be running fine, and I'm on dail-up...
Edit: I also found a thread on ATV connection that indicated .006 for both, which is also the spec for my 05 500 Foreman, but they are a totally different engine.
#4
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I've been very happy with it. I think you will find the suspension is much improved, and it really handles nice.
Mine's been in for a clutch upgrade campaign, and the tie rod end recall that effected several brands, but other than that it's been great. I just need to get out and ride it more.
I will say, though, that if I get another one it will probably be a Rincon. The buddy I ride with has one, and the IRS lets it glide over rough roots and rocks faster than I care to go, and it also seems to reduce the fatigue factor that comes with back to back full days of hard riding.
My Foreman does feel more planted sliding around corners or on off camber stuff, though, and I like my tractor low 1st gear on technical decents. It will hold my machine down to about 1 or 2 mph, where the Rincon in first would be doing like 7, so you have to be on the Rincon's brakes all the time on steep technical decents.
Mine's been in for a clutch upgrade campaign, and the tie rod end recall that effected several brands, but other than that it's been great. I just need to get out and ride it more.
I will say, though, that if I get another one it will probably be a Rincon. The buddy I ride with has one, and the IRS lets it glide over rough roots and rocks faster than I care to go, and it also seems to reduce the fatigue factor that comes with back to back full days of hard riding.
My Foreman does feel more planted sliding around corners or on off camber stuff, though, and I like my tractor low 1st gear on technical decents. It will hold my machine down to about 1 or 2 mph, where the Rincon in first would be doing like 7, so you have to be on the Rincon's brakes all the time on steep technical decents.
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My buddy has a Rincon also and my oppinions are about the same as yours. His feels nicer if your just out screwing around, and the Foreman feels better for the hard stuff. I really like having the gears for down hill stuff and the slow, bottom of the creek, type of riding. Thanks again.
#7
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Ya I'm faithful to Honda also. They have done so well for me I will never get anything else. I have 20,000 miles on the one foreman and it still runs great. I'm looking forward to trying the new 500.
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#8
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I'm kind of a Honda fan also, plus I prefer a manual transmission.
I do wish Honda would catch up with the competition, though, and start offering a locker lever for the front end.
I'd also like to see them build something to compete with the Bomb 800, Brute Force 750 and the like, and if I were king foot shift would at least be offered.
Actually, I'd settle for an IRS option on the Foreman, but with just a bit stiffer anti-sway than what's on the Rincon.
I do wish Honda would catch up with the competition, though, and start offering a locker lever for the front end.
I'd also like to see them build something to compete with the Bomb 800, Brute Force 750 and the like, and if I were king foot shift would at least be offered.
Actually, I'd settle for an IRS option on the Foreman, but with just a bit stiffer anti-sway than what's on the Rincon.
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Well, I found out how to do the valves. I guess that will be next weeks project.
Back to the 4 wheelers now, I'm not to sure about the IRS when it comes to towing stuff though. The solid axle is like a truck and puts weight on the axle and tires, the irs pulls down the whole bike. When my buddy hooked up to my trailer with a load he about did a wheelie. I use mine 50% on the ranch hauling and towing stuff so I think the the solid axle fits me better. I do have give the Rincon credit though, it's rides better.
Back to the 4 wheelers now, I'm not to sure about the IRS when it comes to towing stuff though. The solid axle is like a truck and puts weight on the axle and tires, the irs pulls down the whole bike. When my buddy hooked up to my trailer with a load he about did a wheelie. I use mine 50% on the ranch hauling and towing stuff so I think the the solid axle fits me better. I do have give the Rincon credit though, it's rides better.
#10
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Yeah, if you tow a lot, SRA would be the way to go.
Valve adjustment is generally pretty similar on all of them. Remove the little side covers if it has them, and the seat, shut off the gas and unhook the gas line and remove the gas tank.
Under the tank there may be a heat deflector of one kind or another to get to the head. Remove the two valve inspection caps, and there will be a cap on the crankcase to take off. Turn the engine (with backup starter) until a T appears centered in the inspection hole on the crankcase, and see if there is play in the rockers.
If there is play, it's ready to adjust. If no play, they are both slightly open in the overlap between exhaust and intake, so turn it once more.
Once the valves are adjusted, just put everything back, being careful of the O-rings. I also like to use locktite to prevent bolts from seizing or loosening.
While you are at it, it would be a good idea to adjust the clutch.
Valve adjustment is generally pretty similar on all of them. Remove the little side covers if it has them, and the seat, shut off the gas and unhook the gas line and remove the gas tank.
Under the tank there may be a heat deflector of one kind or another to get to the head. Remove the two valve inspection caps, and there will be a cap on the crankcase to take off. Turn the engine (with backup starter) until a T appears centered in the inspection hole on the crankcase, and see if there is play in the rockers.
If there is play, it's ready to adjust. If no play, they are both slightly open in the overlap between exhaust and intake, so turn it once more.
Once the valves are adjusted, just put everything back, being careful of the O-rings. I also like to use locktite to prevent bolts from seizing or loosening.
While you are at it, it would be a good idea to adjust the clutch.
#12
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Cold.
There should also be a clutch adjustment that you should probably do. On mine, it's on the left side of the engine, an adjustment screw with a lock nut on it. For mine the book says to loosen the lock nut, and turn the screw one turn clockwise, then turn counter clockwise until resistance is felt, then 1/4 turn clockwise and lock the locknut.
There should also be a clutch adjustment that you should probably do. On mine, it's on the left side of the engine, an adjustment screw with a lock nut on it. For mine the book says to loosen the lock nut, and turn the screw one turn clockwise, then turn counter clockwise until resistance is felt, then 1/4 turn clockwise and lock the locknut.
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