Home/Shop electrical question
#1
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Home/Shop electrical question
Looking for some input on a future project. My new (proposed) shop will be about 160 feet away (total) from my main service coming into the house.
I'm thinking an 80 amp service to the shop will be sufficient, only things really running will be the compressor (15 amps running), maybe some hand tools, lift, lighting, nothing major and not all at once (not like, running a business out of it).
Certainly don't want to under size it, but can't afford to go crazy with 200 amps down there with the way copper prices are.
Any ideas on what I'll need in the way of wire?
Thanks,
Phil
I'm thinking an 80 amp service to the shop will be sufficient, only things really running will be the compressor (15 amps running), maybe some hand tools, lift, lighting, nothing major and not all at once (not like, running a business out of it).
Certainly don't want to under size it, but can't afford to go crazy with 200 amps down there with the way copper prices are.
Any ideas on what I'll need in the way of wire?
Thanks,
Phil
#2
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Are you going to cover / insulate the walls ?
Get the 200 box , then you can add as needed if walls are open .
If you need to insulate & cover walls .
still get a 200 box , but do not put in wall , then when you need more , run plastic conduit up to above roof joints , across to where ever & down to where you need .
The last thing you want , is not enough amps , and running back & forth turning things off , so you can start/turn on something els .
And remember depending on the motor , you could need as much as 3-5 times start power .
Then for the long term [ low electric bills ] maybe bring in 3 phase , lots of times you can find deals on used 3 phase equipment because of fewer bider's when you find a deal .
Then there is alternative power/heating , it does pay its self back .
Get the 200 box , then you can add as needed if walls are open .
If you need to insulate & cover walls .
still get a 200 box , but do not put in wall , then when you need more , run plastic conduit up to above roof joints , across to where ever & down to where you need .
The last thing you want , is not enough amps , and running back & forth turning things off , so you can start/turn on something els .
And remember depending on the motor , you could need as much as 3-5 times start power .
Then for the long term [ low electric bills ] maybe bring in 3 phase , lots of times you can find deals on used 3 phase equipment because of fewer bider's when you find a deal .
Then there is alternative power/heating , it does pay its self back .
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The only thing you need copper wire for is lights and outlets. They use 4/0 aluminum cable, which is good for 200A service, to bring power into the breaker panel.
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100 amp service will be plenty for what you are planning to do.
I run welders, compressors, Reznors, lights, radio's...you name it...off way less than that with no problems. It's not legit, but it works for what I need it for.
3-phase will take forever to offset the cost of installing it.
As far as feeding it, 2/0 should be plenty.
I run welders, compressors, Reznors, lights, radio's...you name it...off way less than that with no problems. It's not legit, but it works for what I need it for.
3-phase will take forever to offset the cost of installing it.
As far as feeding it, 2/0 should be plenty.
#6
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I'm not apposed to it, just don't want to get smoked on the materials themselves. I can dig a ditch the same as them, wiring up the main I will leave to a professional.
#7
Just use #12 two wire plus ground, copper inside the shop from that secondary panel to each of your 120VAC circuits. For any 220 service up to 30 amps use #10 three wire plus ground. For a home sized welder or plasma cutter use what the manufacturer recommends, most cases it is stranded #10 three plus a ground from the panel to the service outlet.
On your inside wire be sure to follow your local codes regarding how far apart to staple it to studs, which system to use to secure the wire to the boxes, etc. You want to do it right or the inspector will fail the job, and then your fire insurance will not cover electrical fire losses in the house or the shop regardless if it was this job or not.
The wire for the distribution plant from your home panel to the shop panel will be sized according to the run length and secondary panel capacity. Hardly anyone uses aluminum underground anymore, it is just not safe. So, I would install PVC underground conduit with a pull string for the electrician. He/she will have to terminate the final conduit run to your existing house service panel, so just get to that location and leave enough above ground for them to work with. If your house service is in the wall, go ahead and cut the drywall away so they can feed the conduit and service to the breaker they will install.
For your own peace of mind, steer clear of the direct bury cable. It is a one way trip to a huge electrical bill at some point in the future if you have rocks, gophers, moles, squirrels, or drive over the cable run.
Depending on your local code you will need to size the panel and select the method of bonding. Your electrician will advise you on this, and take that advice. You do not want the wrong panel as it will end up being torn out or failed during inspection.
What I did with mine was brought the electrician out for a quote, then built out the plant after he told me what I needed. I handled the permit with the County with his name as the electrician. My electrician just showed up to do the connection and to certify the installation. But, he has worked with me for years on various projects and knew what to expect. Good ones have so much work they are happy to have you do what you can to save them time, but their name and bond is on the line, so they will want to be sure the work is done right.
On your inside wire be sure to follow your local codes regarding how far apart to staple it to studs, which system to use to secure the wire to the boxes, etc. You want to do it right or the inspector will fail the job, and then your fire insurance will not cover electrical fire losses in the house or the shop regardless if it was this job or not.
The wire for the distribution plant from your home panel to the shop panel will be sized according to the run length and secondary panel capacity. Hardly anyone uses aluminum underground anymore, it is just not safe. So, I would install PVC underground conduit with a pull string for the electrician. He/she will have to terminate the final conduit run to your existing house service panel, so just get to that location and leave enough above ground for them to work with. If your house service is in the wall, go ahead and cut the drywall away so they can feed the conduit and service to the breaker they will install.
For your own peace of mind, steer clear of the direct bury cable. It is a one way trip to a huge electrical bill at some point in the future if you have rocks, gophers, moles, squirrels, or drive over the cable run.
Depending on your local code you will need to size the panel and select the method of bonding. Your electrician will advise you on this, and take that advice. You do not want the wrong panel as it will end up being torn out or failed during inspection.
What I did with mine was brought the electrician out for a quote, then built out the plant after he told me what I needed. I handled the permit with the County with his name as the electrician. My electrician just showed up to do the connection and to certify the installation. But, he has worked with me for years on various projects and knew what to expect. Good ones have so much work they are happy to have you do what you can to save them time, but their name and bond is on the line, so they will want to be sure the work is done right.
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#9
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100 amp service will be plenty for what you are planning to do.
I run welders, compressors, Reznors, lights, radio's...you name it...off way less than that with no problems. It's not legit, but it works for what I need it for.
3-phase will take forever to offset the cost of installing it.
As far as feeding it, 2/0 should be plenty.
I run welders, compressors, Reznors, lights, radio's...you name it...off way less than that with no problems. It's not legit, but it works for what I need it for.
3-phase will take forever to offset the cost of installing it.
As far as feeding it, 2/0 should be plenty.
And since you stated that you are doing 80 amp for the price of wire, then you need to put the right size in. I would run #2 copper in 1-1/2 conduit, and go ahead and put in a 100 amp panel.
#10
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Hardly anyone uses aluminum underground anymore, it is just not safe. So, I would install PVC underground conduit with a pull string for the electrician. He/she will have to terminate the final conduit run to your existing house service panel, so just get to that location and leave enough above ground for them to work with.
For your own peace of mind, steer clear of the direct bury cable. It is a one way trip to a huge electrical bill at some point in the future if you have rocks, gophers, moles, squirrels, or drive over the cable run.
.
For your own peace of mind, steer clear of the direct bury cable. It is a one way trip to a huge electrical bill at some point in the future if you have rocks, gophers, moles, squirrels, or drive over the cable run.
.
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2/0 (2-ought) for 80 amp service is way overkill. 2/0 is good for 200 amp service.
And since you stated that you are doing 80 amp for the price of wire, then you need to put the right size in. I would run #2 copper in 1-1/2 conduit, and go ahead and put in a 100 amp panel.
And since you stated that you are doing 80 amp for the price of wire, then you need to put the right size in. I would run #2 copper in 1-1/2 conduit, and go ahead and put in a 100 amp panel.
That's a long run...
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#13
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"Then for the long term [ low electric bills ] maybe bring in 3 phase"
Bad advice. To get this, most electric companies will bill not on actual usage but what called a demand rate. They take an a high peak reading at thier chosen time, and gaurentee you that "supply" of electricity and bill you each month at that rate. Once your on it you will never get off. We had someone at our church think this was a great idea, and even had them install 3 phase ac units. The building is used about 4 hours a week and the electric bills are well over $1000 a month.
If you calculate actual usage at full load for that amount of time, the bills should never be more than $300. So the electric comapny is ripping them for $700 worth of power that will never be used. Maybe not moral, but legal and stuck with it.
Bad advice. To get this, most electric companies will bill not on actual usage but what called a demand rate. They take an a high peak reading at thier chosen time, and gaurentee you that "supply" of electricity and bill you each month at that rate. Once your on it you will never get off. We had someone at our church think this was a great idea, and even had them install 3 phase ac units. The building is used about 4 hours a week and the electric bills are well over $1000 a month.
If you calculate actual usage at full load for that amount of time, the bills should never be more than $300. So the electric comapny is ripping them for $700 worth of power that will never be used. Maybe not moral, but legal and stuck with it.
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Nah. 600' is a long run...LOL. That's how far my pad mounted transformer is from the road.
I am not an electrician, and I dont know the code, but I would feel comfortable with #2 CU suppling 80 amp service. One of the main things about going UG, is heat. You need enough conduit to keep the wire cool. I would do if it was my place. 2/0 is just way too big of wire, and it costs way too much for just 80 amp service.
I am not an electrician, and I dont know the code, but I would feel comfortable with #2 CU suppling 80 amp service. One of the main things about going UG, is heat. You need enough conduit to keep the wire cool. I would do if it was my place. 2/0 is just way too big of wire, and it costs way too much for just 80 amp service.