Mopardan

My 2002 JD 4410 has a pushbutton 4 wh drive system on the right hand fender. For the last week when I switch to 2 wh drive it blows a fuse. I can put it in 4x4 and crank it up and runs fine. As soon as I push the button for 2 wh drive it pops the fuse . (guages won't work, key does nothing, motor shuts off) I traced the visible wires and found nothing. I'm not sure where the actuator is. Anyone have a clue where to start looking?

JKM

I can't tell you where to look , but i can almost guarantee the problem is a bad solonoid , the 4x4 is spring applied , and hydraulically released, so it energizes the solonoid which opens a hydraulic valve , which pushes a pistion to compress the spring that engages your 4x4. there is a short in the wiring , or the solonoid is bad.

Mopardan

JKM> you got me started in the right direction. I found a hyd block under the tractor that has a hyd line going to a cylinder that has MFWD on it. It has 2 solenoids on top, but its going to be HARD to access. I unpluged it and tractor ran, pluged it up and fuse blew! I ran tractor for 2 hrs the other day in 4x4, pulled in shed, hit 2by and popped fuse. How would be the best way to check solenoids? Is it possible it could be a relay? My owners manual does'nt give a discreption of the relays (has 14 relays). I hate to take it to the dealer$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Thanks in advance for any help.

JKM

If you unplug the wires from the hyd block, then try flipping the switch , and the fuse doesn't blow , then the relay and switch should be fine (if either was going to ground and popping the fuse , they would still do it with the solonoid unplugged) . What size fuse does it pop?

I am going to bet that it is a solonoid, To test the solonoid you will use an ohm meter and check resistance, i don't know what they should read if good, but if a solonoid were bad it would have continuity to ground (i think).

Unless your dealer is completely uptight , they should help you out. I work for a kubota dealer , and i help out people with questions all the time, just wander out into the shop , and ask one of the mechanics how to test the solonoid(s) for your 4x4, make sure you ask what the resistance should be.

Our international (see gallery) took a spell of popping fuses whenever you dis-engaged the diff lock ( it is electric) , turned out to be a bad switch on a brake pedal. The resistance on my solonoids was 1.7 ohms IIRC

Let me know how you make out with it , send me a PM if you need more help.

Charlie8301

Well being a tech for deere I can tell you never take advice from a kubota man J/K. JKM is right on the money. Your dealership should test it for you if you take it off and bring it in.

Randy

on edit:
if you want to wait till tommorrow i'll look the spec up at work

Mopardan

Thanks guys! I will try to test them tomorrow. I think I will have to take the hyd block off to get the sensors off (there on top). It didn't blow a fuse with them unpluged. (20amp) Iv'e been thru 10 fuses so far and bought 10 more. I may drop by my dealer soon for a chat. This site ROCKS!! I ask this question on a tractor site and got NOOOO help at all. Thanks for all your imput.

JKM

Haha , i'm NOT a Kubota man , they just offered me alot of money to work for them, until friday that is. I am a Case IH man. But we do have a JD corn planter , does that get me any credit?

Thanks for lookin up the spec for mopardan, i hope we can get him going again. I have a Fluke meter if you want to come up here and borrow it to test your own solonoids

Mopardan

OK, I hooked tester on switch side of solenoid and switched it about 20 times. All good. Tested resistance and was 11.1 on both?? Started tractor in 2by and ran for about 1 min and it blew fuse. (I checked and cyl did move to 2by) Tested res again and got 11.1 on one and 0.6 on the other. I checked the JD site and can't find them. The hyd block is called a diverter. Called dealer and he was lost too. I think WE'VE found the problem. Dealer told me to come by and look at his parts book. Thanks guys for helping me sort this out!

JKM

From what you show there , i think i would look at putting a solonoid in it. Did you try checking them to see if either pin had continuity to ground?



When your done fixing your problem , you can come fix mine. Pretty much finished up an install/PDI on a loader today, but i have severe hydraulics problem, it has a 4 way joystick , up and down on the boom work AOK, but to try and dump the bucket ,(to the right of center) instead it rolls it back, and if you shove the control lever as far to the right as it will go , the bucket WILL roll back. If you move the lever to the left of center, the bucket will roll back... I Spent way too much time scratching my head at that today , and i finally gave up and worked on some other stuff while i did some thinking, and i don't have it figured out yet. I am some glad i can load my tool box in the truck and go home on friday , because it is my last day.

Jeremy Cusick

This is where a service manual comes in REALLY handy.

JKM

Mopardan , how did you make out today?

I got my hydraulics problem fixed , overnighted in a new valve , bolted it on , hooked up the hyd lines ,and it worked perfectly , put in a warranty claim on the old valve an sent it back , i wanted to take it apart just so i could see for myself what was wrong , but was told warranty would be voided if it was tampered with.

Mopardan

Went by dealer this am (Fri). Parts guy found part, but theres 2 and he doesn't know which one it is. Talked to shop tech and he was very cooperative. I also carried a picture I took of the part with me. It's called a control valve. It has 2, 1 for MFWD and 1 for the PTO. Teck told me to swap them and see if it blew fuse on PTO after swap. There still not sure which 1 I'll need. 1 is $210 and the other is $262. I'm working nights this week, so it may be a few days before I get back to it. Glad you got yours fix. Hope all is well.

JKM

Let me know if you need any more help, i am a free man for the next 2-3 weeks until i start my new job, today was my last day at work , spent the rest of the day moving.

JDGnut

1 YZ81249 MANIFOLD 1 X X (WITH MAIN PTO, MFWD)
2 57M8214 CONNECTOR 1 (FOUR-WAY, FEMALE)
3 YZ81355 KIT 2 COIL
4 YZ81312 VALVE 2
5 YZ81257 PLUG 1
6 YZ81305 KIT 3
7 YZ81301 MANIFOLD 1
8 L41079 PIPE PLUG 1
9 YZ81217 ORIFICE 1
10 YZ100053 FITTING PLUG 1
KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. PRT HST REMARKS
11 YZ81155 MANIFOLD 1 X X (WITH MAIN PTO, MFWD, MID PTO)
12 57M8213 CONNECTOR 1 (TWO-WAY, FEMALE)
13 YZ81353 SOLENOID VALVE 1
14 YZ81312 VALVE 3
15 YZ81305 KIT 3
16 YZ81355 KIT 3 COIL
17 YZ81301 MANIFOLD 1
18 57M8214 CONNECTOR 1 (FOUR-WAY, FEMALE)
19 YZ100053 FITTING PLUG 1
20 YZ81217 ORIFICE 1
KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. PRT HST REMARKS
21 YZ81251 MANIFOLD 1 X (WITH MAIN PTO)
22 YZ81355 KIT 1 COIL
23 YZ81312 VALVE 1
24 YZ81257 PLUG 2
25 YZ81305 KIT 3
26 L41079 PIPE PLUG 1
27 YZ81301 MANIFOLD 1
28 YZ81217 ORIFICE 1
29 YZ100053 FITTING PLUG 1
30 57M8214 CONNECTOR 1 (FOUR-WAY, FEMALE)
KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. PRT HST REMARKS
31 YZ81250 MANIFOLD 1 X (WITH MAIN PTO, MID PTO)
32 57M8213 CONNECTOR 1 (TWO-WAY FEMALE)
33 YZ81353 SOLENOID VALVE 1
34 YZ81312 VALVE 2
35 YZ81257 PLUG 1
36 YZ81305 KIT 3
37 YZ81301 MANIFOLD 1
38 L41079 PIPE PLUG 1
39 57M8214 CONNECTOR 1 (FOUR-WAY, FEMALE)
40 YZ81217 ORIFICE 1
KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. PRT HST REMARKS
41 YZ100053 FITTING PLUG 1
42 YZ81355 KIT 1 COIL
43 19M8321 SCREW 4 M6 X 45 (USED ON ALL MANIFOLDS)
44 F37020111 O-RING 1 (USED ON ALL MANIFOLDS)



Look like this???

Mopardan

Wow, how did you find that? Thats it exactly. Dealer doesn't know if I need #3 or #16. I don't know why I could'nt use a single and wire it in to the plug. It's storming here today, and I just got off work so I won't mess with it today. I may try to swap them around like mech said to make sure thats the problem. Don't want to spend $200+ and not be the problem. Any guesses?


goingtobedandtakingalongnapdan