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Gas Wall Heater?

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Old 11-30-2005, 06:02 AM
  #31  
P.J
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Bummer, thats where I thought I was heading next with mine. I hate throwing parts at things, but when the main part is like 1/2 the cost of the whole unit.....

That stinks.
Old 11-30-2005, 10:05 AM
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Buckshot, do me a favor and try something. Remove the two wires going to the thermostat. Make sure the pilot is on and try using a jumper wire to jumper the terminals where the thermostat wires were. What happens? If it runs, then the valve is not the problem. If it still acts up then the valve is probably the culprit. The valves do get some corrosion in them and that could be the cause of your headaches.
Tom
Old 11-30-2005, 10:26 AM
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That's what I thought. :0( It's the gas control valve. If you can e-mail me a pic of the unit itself ( so I can see the brand) it's probably a Williams and also a pic of the control valve I can look in my catalog and tell you what the valve costs.We know that it's a millivolt type so we could use a universal valve but I need to know if you have a vent switch. If it's a Williams you will see a louvered section on the left side of the unit near the top (appox.3"x5"). There should be a sensor installed in that area. You should see two wires ( usually black). I think that the robertshaw 710-502 valve will work for you. Price is $85.98 plus tax etc. This valve replaces the ITT B67RA56.
Old 11-30-2005, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MnTom
Buckshot, do me a favor and try something. Remove the two wires going to the thermostat. Make sure the pilot is on and try using a jumper wire to jumper the terminals where the thermostat wires were. What happens? If it runs, then the valve is not the problem. If it still acts up then the valve is probably the culprit. The valves do get some corrosion in them and that could be the cause of your headaches.
Tom
Tried that, still no go.


Originally Posted by spunbearing
That's what I thought. :0( It's the gas control valve. If you can e-mail me a pic of the unit itself ( so I can see the brand) it's probably a Williams and also a pic of the control valve I can look in my catalog and tell you what the valve costs.We know that it's a millivolt type so we could use a universal valve but I need to know if you have a vent switch. If it's a Williams you will see a louvered section on the left side of the unit near the top (appox.3"x5"). There should be a sensor installed in that area. You should see two wires ( usually black). I think that the robertshaw 710-502 valve will work for you. Price is $85.98 plus tax etc. This valve replaces the ITT B67RA56.
It is a Williams, 35,000 BTU, Model #3509622
Old 11-30-2005, 07:38 PM
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Ok heres the deal..... I called Williams and they gave me this part # P323011
It is available by calling 1-800-957-7278. Cost is $118.50. Shipping is $17.00
This is the original part shipped by a company that Williams refers to their repair contractors.


They wouldn't tell me who the manufacturer is. I think it's the same valve that I listed in my last post available at home depot commercial division for $85.98. In fact I did an online search and came up with a cross reference for the home depot part. I'm 98% sure that it's the same part. I'm 100% sure that it will work to heat your house but I'm not 100% sure that your vent safety switch will work with it. If it was my house I wouldn't have a concern with the vent switch. All it does is kills the gas valve if the vent pipe is clogged or not venting properly. In my home this wouldn't be a concern because I inspect my own heating system everytime I change the filter ( forced air) and I always check the venting system at the same time. If I were installing it in a customers home I would insist on the original part ( for liability purposes). On wall furnaces people tend to not even clean them let alone inspect the venting system.
I'm pretty sure that the home depot part is the same thing by the same manufacturer but I can't verify 100%. Maybe someone else on here knows for sure.
Old 11-30-2005, 07:44 PM
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If he pointed to the top of the heater he is pointing to the Vent Saftey switch... Before you buy the control get to the vent saftey (little disk looking thing up at the top of the furnace) and you will see 2 wires on it.. Jump across those 2 wires and see if the furnace works.. If it does then it is a bad connection inside the vent safety. (it is just a cheap little warp switch). It could have a bad connection and sucking the electricity out of the system..
Old 11-30-2005, 07:52 PM
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You can just loop a wire between the two terminals where the vent switch connects to the valve to test that. I assumed that the gas company did that already. It's possible that they didn't. Tye I just got a call today about a job in Los Osos. If I go to look at the job later this week I could stop by and look at it on my way if you don't have it settled by then.
Old 11-30-2005, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by spunbearing
You can just loop a wire between the two terminals where the vent switch connects to the valve to test that. I assumed that the gas company did that already. It's possible that they didn't. Tye I just got a call today about a job in Los Osos. If I go to look at the job later this week I could stop by and look at it on my way if you don't have it settled by then.
I may take you up on that. Gerry offered to stop over when he has up here a few weeks ago and I was foolish for not having him do it. Thanks to everyone for there help I really appreciate it. I found the gas valve today for it for $114.00, shipping/tax included.
Old 12-03-2005, 01:16 PM
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Thumbs up

"IT'S ALIVE!"

I got the new gas valve installed and it works! I got $125.00 (new valve and thermocoupler) invested, and pretty much a new wall heater. Thanks for everybodies "HELP" I really appreciate it. Thanks abunch.

Tye
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