changing rod bearings Jeep 4.0L $$$$
#1
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changing rod bearings Jeep 4.0L $$$$
Anybody know whats involved in changing rod bearings, does the engine need to be pulled out or can it be done by removing the oil pan?
Anybody know how much a mechanic would charge?
Anybody know how much a mechanic would charge?
#2
I changed them in my old CJ5 6 banger by just pulling the pan. Of course I have put a number of engines together so it really wasn't a big deal. Be sure you replace the oil pump and the rear main seal while you are at it
I don't have a clue what somebody might charge for that.
I don't have a clue what somebody might charge for that.
#4
I have done this several times on 4 liters and if you are in there you might as well throw some mains in it too. You can get to everything when you drop the pan. I paid less than 100 in parts at AutoZone, Advance auto and some other shops wanted almost double that so it pays to shop around. Don't know what a shop would charge to install, probably a couple hundered.
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the motor was sludged up to the point that i had to dump motor flush into the spark plugs to get the engine to free up enough to crank. I have flushed the motor out and I believe I have taken care of the sludge problem for the most part. I thought rod bearings were shot when the oil pressure drops at idle......my oil pressure drops to 5-10psi at idle and goes to 40 when I rev it up. Maybe I am wrong at diagnosiing the problem. I pulled the valve cover off and the rockers and springs look good.
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#8
had 2 4.0's around that same year and both ran fine but sounded like a bad rod knock, turned out it was torque converter to flexplate bolts were backing out and hitting the tranny case. Pull the inspection cover before you buy parts...
#10
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wouldn't hurt to drop the pan and have a look and maybe replace the seals, and oil pump. I did it on mine back before the 350 swap. I'm pretty sure it is a 2 piece rear main seal.
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the motor was sludged up to the point that i had to dump motor flush into the spark plugs to get the engine to free up enough to crank. I have flushed the motor out and I believe I have taken care of the sludge problem for the most part. I thought rod bearings were shot when the oil pressure drops at idle......my oil pressure drops to 5-10psi at idle and goes to 40 when I rev it up. Maybe I am wrong at diagnosiing the problem. I pulled the valve cover off and the rockers and springs look good.
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