RAF

I just saw a Farm Show article about these chains made by Rapco Industries. Does any one here have any first hand experience? I checked out there web site and like what I saw. The chain for my saw would be about $150. But if it does what it says it will do it would be worth it.

Here is there link http://www.rapcoindustries.com/

RAF

They do carry the chains for that type of use but the ones I am looking at are for fire wood type use. They have files and such that can be bought to sharpen them myself.

dieselcarpenter

Well I have never used it myself, but have been around before both in the fire fighting side and logging side. It is only worth using if you are cutting dirty stuff all the time or you are into demolition. Some of the harder species also make it worth while. When I buy my chain, saw parts, and gear I go through Bailey's they have a good selection and good service. If they have inexpensive sharpening equipment I say go for it. Its probably cheaper to buy it by the reel and make up your own loops. I would be leery of sharpening carbide by hand even with a file guide. A power setup is the best because you can get the perfect angle's. Carbide is a bit more fussy about angles than regular steel. But like I say, if you are cutting sandy, rocky wood, really hard stuff, frozen stuff or lumber with metal in it I would say go for it. Here is a link to the Bailey's carbide chain page, check them out they are one of the better logging/ saw shop's around!

http://www.baileysonline.com/search....jecta&catID=73

Hope I was helpful to ya!

D-C out!

P.S. If you try to cut PVC with a carbide chain it will break off the carbide!! City borrowed the departments saw for a water main project one time!! half the inserts were missing when it came back! (small town's!! )

dieselcarpenter

Many cords and a couple years out of a chain? Were you cutting absolutely clean pine? I was lucky to get season out of a semi chisel chain on my Husky 261. You must not have ever hit anything, either that or you didn't sharpen the nicks all the way off. Were you getting sawdust or long wide chips? I try to keep my chains fully sharp, deburred and I also file the raker's. I would run a chain until the chisels started to break off! Nothing like buzzing through an 8" log and having a pile of chips allover you feet!

P.J

I keep three chains in rotation, they usually last about 1-2 large oak trees until they are throwing sawdust. Never heard of the type you are referring to, I can buy a lot of chains and files for $150.00

BearKiller

I second Bailey's; they are the largest seller of saw-chain in the world, with the best prices on CHAIN.

They are kinda steep on a lot of their other stuff; but, nobody can compete with them on chain prices.

Customer service is also excellent.

I once ordered three bars to fit my saw. I filled out the order correctly to the letter; but, when UPS dropped off the bars, they were the wrong pitch = absolutely no use to me. I called them and the guy looked up my order and, sure enough, I was right and they were wrong. He immediately expedited me the correct bars. When I asked him how to return the wrong ones, he told me to just throw them away or give them to someone that could use them. It is hard to top service like that.

............I didn't really follow his instructions to the letter; as, I swapped the bars to the lawn-mower shop for something I needed and could use, so I came out ahead by them messing up; I can't say that about many other mail-order businesses that have made mistakes in the past.





Me, too.

One on the saw, one hanging on a nail - sharp as a razor, and one, either at the sharpeners, or also hanging on the wall.

Of course, this does not include the couple dozen brand-new ones I keep around to replace the old ones as they wear out.


I have a guy handy that will sharpen a loop for $2.50, providing it isn't on the saw. He doesn't grind away un-necessarily, and they cut like a razor's uncle after he gets done with them; so, I seldom use the file anymore, except to touch-up the chain in the field.

patdaly

Wow, you had better give that guy a hug................ I file mine until they get off kilter too far for my liking, and then take them to the only place that sharpens them here, 6 bucks a pop off the saw and depending on what kid sharpens them....well, you get the picture.

P.J

Well, I wasn't going to say anything, but I've had two out of my three sent out for sharpening,.......$10.00 a pop. Maybe because they are 24's?

Anyway, if I could get it done for $5 or $6, I would never touch a file or guide again.

firemanram

We went to that type of chain on our fire trucks, don't know if it's the same brand. We use them to vent a roof during a structure fire. The other chains didn't last long after hitting roofing nails.

dieselJon

Carbide is ok but the only thing harder than carbide is Diamond. Diamond is 100 on the scale, carbide is something like 9x. The thing with carbide is it will last a little longer but once it heats up, it cracks. As someone said, if you are cutting into dirt a lot, then it would be worth it. If not, then a waste of money.

I have sharpened carbide steel bits in a machine shop. I hated doing them cause it took a long time to resharpen them by taking off .001-.002 of an inch at a time

dieselcarpenter

10.00 for a 24! I run 24" and 36" ers (full comp) on my Husky 261's and 48", and 72" (semi skip) on my O84 AV! Never had one sharpened by a pro, I can get razor and straight cutting results with a file and guide in the field! Hate to think what it would have cost over all this time! I too run a series of chains and bars in circulation same with air cleaners.




Back to the Carbide, Like I said; dirt/gravel, nails, or ironwood (for a living) would be the only time I would shell out for carbide just to much hassle otherwise! I can hand sharpen many times for the cost of a loop of carbide. Full comp, round chisel, non-safety chain baby!

PS, wear chaps! hearing/eye protection! Use wedges!

Thats my .04 cents on this one!

D-C out!

BearKiller

The fancy high-class saw-shop, in town, charges $4 for any chain up to 24" bar.

He is way too high and also grinds away half the tooth.


I did have an old man doing them for $1.25/chain, but he got cancer and kicked the bucket, so that was the end of that.


You gotta consider that I live in Kentucky, the highest poverty and lowest wages in the United States.

dj_souvlaki

if you're cutting just strictly wood you shouldn't need a carbide tip chain. just keep the chain out of dirt cause once you hit dirt than its time to resharpen.

use a good quality chain. we only sold sithl chains and oregon for husky. i did not like the oregon chain at all. stihl was the most cost effective and best quality chain you could buy.

cost for cost regular stihl chain is probably the way to go.

RAF

Thanks for the replys. I cut up a lot of wood that has been sitting around like dead falls and such. So I am always sharpening chains. I thought this would be a good choice. I did a little research over at Aboristsite.com and it seems that there is also a problem with the carbide tips breaking off. So rather than getting into all that. I think I am going this route http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...7449_200327449 I found out from Aboristsite that it is a knock off of the Oregon 511A ($330.00) and works very well. So for what I'm doing I think this will work out just fine.

Thanks
Rich