Raspy

If any of you guys are interested in info about radiant heating and installing PEX, etc, let me know.


Nice shop Mike.




John

scottsjeeprolet

That's what we call it ( MD DTR chapter#33) we do all our wrenchin here.
the ceiling is 10' and the doors are 9x9, my dually fits just fine. I had to pay extra for the extra joists so i could have the opening to lift the truck. They doubled them up on either side of the lift bay.

Iron Mike

Yeah it is. I just wish it was mine instead of scottsjeeprolet.

latitud_rt

Well I got my first estimate for the foundation. Not real encouraging...$7,000. I was expecting more in the neighborhood of $4,000 to $5,000. Hopefully my next guy will be more within budget. If I had enough experience (substitute courage) I would attemp it myself, but just having an idea of how to do it to me isn't worth saving the extra money.

Oh yeah..he did say that he could pour a 8" high concrete wall and a 4" knee wall on top of that. That way I could use 8' doors and keep the standard 92 5/8 studs in the kit. Kinda like a cripple wall I guess. I wonder how that would look when finished.

patdaly

Whoa, thats over 10 bucks a SF. Are you pouring 6" by any chance?

If I were doing it, I would pour my own walls, 12" is easy to do, dig your footings to the required depth, rip some 1/2 or 3/4" plywood to the width required for the cripple wall, form it up and pour the footing/walls. Then when you strip your forms you will have the majority of the floor forming done. I would probably pour the floor in 2 segments unless I had a lot of help handy.

The cripple wall will also help you when it comes time to work in your garage. If you use pole barn tin for the interior trim, you eliminate places for fire to start at the bottom. The berries would have to find their way under the tin, then travel up almost 12" to find anything to catch on fire.

It also makes it easier to replace the floor later if you have an issue.....

latitud_rt

The code says 12" wide, 18"deep. This contractor only had 16" bucket, so naturally the concrete price would be more. I can rent the equipment to get the trench correct. But I am not sure exactly how to make sure all the air is out...or things like how to make sure the wall is exactly level from one corner to the other so I start with a good foundation and such.

wurkenman

You dont want it level. Should have about an inch and a half slope from the back wall to the door for drainage from rain, snow, etc. As far as a level get some clear plastic tubing and plug the ends. Then just fill with water and leave about 2 feet empty and you have an instant level. Water will always level itself in the tubing.

butti

check out http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/index.htm i built a 24x28 with a 8x16 overhead door last year and the price could not be beat.it was 4500$ without the door.that price did include all prints and engineering to obtain my building permits and then the door was about another 1000$.



check out the construction process on the website.this style of building makes the slab EASY! this is a VERY simple method of construction.me and a freind built the entire thing

latitud_rt

I forgot about the water level...hmmm...I was thinking about a laser level. As for slope. I am putting in a drain under each bay so I would think level would be better.

See if I have this correct:
dig the trench to requirement. The yard has a slight slope so the guy told me there would be an 18" wall at the back. So the trench would be 18" at the front and 18" at the back meaning the top of the pour would be level, but when I add the concrete cripple wall. the front would be 8" and the back would be about 26". So I would just form it up and poor? I think if I do more than one pour...a cold pour...then I have to put in verticle rebar.

latitud_rt

I like those buildings. I called back to verify if they are allowed and instead of calling it a pole barn..I cleverly labeled it as a prefabbed, metal garage. The answer was ...why yes they are allowed. So I sent off for my free quote.

patdaly

Yep, form it up and pour it all at once. I personally wouldn't worry too much about air, pour it wet. If it bothers you, Harbor Freight has concrete vibrators cheap enough you could call it good, probably sell it for most of what it cost you if you could bear to part with a tool. ( I can't, thus I have way, WAY too many tools )

You can even add your attachment bolts and have them ready to bolt either the plate or the building to.

I personally would have the walls level, and the floor with a slope to the door or a floor drain or drains. Most codes call for a trap at the drain today, so make sure you know what is required prior to the floor pour or you may be jackhammering it back out.

Also, be very careful about calling the Hansen building a prefabbed metal package. Unless you have very lax Zoning, I think you may have a problem. I would show them the building prior to purchasing one. There are real metal pre-fab buildings that they may allow, do a Google search for one that may fit your fancy. I do know Kentucky Steel Buildings and almost used them the last time I built a building.

http://www.steelbuilding.com/buildin...dings_main.htm

http://www.kstbuild.com/

latitud_rt

Is the Hansen building different than any other prefab metal building? I like the looks of it and it seems complete.

patdaly

Unless I missed something from that website, it is a straight pole barn. Metal prefab buildings have actual steel supports that the steel trusses bolt to.

Did I miss something in the link?

berner

I built a 26 X 28 garage last fall. I went with 10' walls and a 16 x 8 door. A 7' door will clear your truck but for the price difference, go 8'. 10' walls will give you lots more storage and a definate "wow" factor when your buds walk in.

latitud_rt

Well the news is getting better. I had an excavator come by today and he suggested going with a pole barn and said it would indeed pass code. Not only will he help me clear the ground for the slab he will also dig the 18" holes for the poles. He know the building inspector and said code would allow the pole type structure, not only that, he said go 30 x 30.