Begle1

So I want to buy a couple filter heads; the cheap kind that you just screw the filter media on the bottom of.

Trying to figure out how to best heat the things; the best way I can come up with...

I get a piece of pipe, and put a cap on one end of the pipe.
I attach the filter head inside of that pipe, so that the bottom one-two inches of the filter media sticks out from the open end.
I coil 5/8's vinyl line around the inside of the pipe; I need to get the pipe big enough so that the line fits all the way around the filter head and filter media.
I drill and tap two holes in the pipe and use compression fittings to connect the heater line to the vinyl coil. I then do the same thing to stick the fuel lines through the pipe into the filter head.
I thread some sort of valve into the cap on top of the pipe, and I can use that to fill the entire assembly with water for optimum heat transfer.
I then fabricate a bottom cap; it needs to threaded onto the pipe and be around 3-4 inches long.

My question is, what kind of pipe should I use? I need something that is around 5 1/2 inches in inside diameter, is good for 300 degrees and that I can drill and tap. And I need to be able to get it threaded, because I need to thread a cap on one end and a funky 3-4 inch long cap on the other end.

Can I get pre-threaded PVC that big?

AlpineRAM

Why not use resistor cable to heat the filters- you could take a filter, put on silicone spray and then wind the cable around and use GFK to laminate a holder. -Isolate with a block of styrofoam.

XLR8R

AlpineRam's idea is cheap, yet effective.

For max effect, Begle1 - you're on the right track.
Step up to at least CPVC for those temps, but the application really needs to be fabbed from metal - any welding skills/experience? Otherwise, the nipples (admin - please don't edit) can get $$$ in that size range.

Begle1

Okay, how about I clarify:

How do I thread two pieces of five inch wide PVC/ CPVC together, so that they are waterproof and I can take them apart and put them back together without too much trouble?

Can you get female threads put into PVC? You can tap and seal 5/8 inch fittings into PVC no problem, right? (If I can just thread compression fittings into the PVC, then it isn't much money at all.)

(And I have the thought of putting resistor cable inside of these water jackets eventually; the idea being that by heating up the water I wouldn't have any hot spots and I'd be able to circulate the heat through the entire system. But first I need to figure out how to screw to pieces of pipe together.)

XLR8R

Oh - well in that case, glue flanges on to the (inner) ends of the CPVC pipes and bolt them together with a suitable gasket; it'll be much easier to disassemble them repeatedly and cheaper to boot. Be careful when tapping the CPVC, since it's relatively soft and subject to lots of "creep", keep your tolerances nice and tight.

BTW - the water lines will provide a very stable, consistent heat source inside of your unit, so electric heating cables won't provide much benefit unless you're attempting to preheat the fuel before cranking the engine.
Of course, internal convection current eddys will tend to warm the remainder of the cooling system as well, including of course the Cummins water jacket.

Begle1

Do you know what kind of places to get these flanges at?

XLR8R

Friendly neighborhood Home Depot, or local plumbing supply for the big stuff.

Begle1

Home Depot taps out at 4 inch, I guess I'll have to look up some plumbing supply in the phone book.

Thanks.

XLR8R

Sure - still, wish you were using metal...

Begle1

I can use metal. In that case, where do I get two pieces of 5-inch metal pipe that I can thread or bolt together? I don't think that you can thread thin wall(?), and thick wall would weigh so much I'd be afraid of bolting it on my fender. And even with thick wall, I've never seen female threads on it.

XLR8R

That's why I asked if you had any welding skills/experience.
In the shop, I'd use 18ga 304SS for the cannister and weld on the bungs & flanges as required.

You can find steel pieces to work with at a scrapyard, even with flanges on the ends. You'd better enjoy rummaging and you'll have to mount it to your FRAME.

You could also just lay up exactly what you want in fiberglass over a core - that might be the best combo of strength, weight, thermal insulation, temperature resistance, cost and ease of fabrication.

Jim Lane

Check suppliers for agricultural irrigation systems, I know I have seen PVC pipe and fittings in excess of 6".
You should be able to get solvent weld adapters and end caps then screw in a cap.

Lot of big sprinkler systems out in the Norco, Riverside areas you would only need scraps about a foot long.

You could also try Arbuckle Electric in Los Angeles, I buy wastewater pumps there with 6" discharge lines or they could at least let you know who might have it.

Also try Ferguson's in Chino for plumbing supplies.
Jim