This comes up as a frequently asked question.<br>Just wanted to pull it from &quot;The Back Of The Rack&quot;<br><br>Hello to all,<br>I had posted a similar thread months ago and thought I would post it again since there are so many new members, and this is a frequently asked question.<br><br>1) Guages, boost Pyrometer, optional transmission temp, or fuel pressure.<br>2) K&amp;N air filter in the stock air box or a JRE Cold air Kit with Heat sheild.<br>3) 4&quot; exhaust turbo to tail pipe, preferably mandrel bent aluminized.<br>4) Then some sort of fuel enhancements, i.e. Van AAken CPC or larger injectors, but not both at the same time until upgrades to the torque converter and valve body on Auto's, or a clutch on a manual<br>5) High quality low stall converter, preferably 1600 rpm, and a valve body modifications to recalibrate to handle the extra power.<br>I prefer the Star performance clutch on the manuals.<br>6) Depending on what you choose on #4 finish the job with injectors or Box.<br>7) 1/2 inch fuel system to feed that hungry powerhouse, and keep that injection pump cool and lubricated.<br>8) 7psi 100 gal. hr. pusher pump at tank.<br>9) 15 psi 100 gal. hr. lift pump on engine.<br>10) US Gear 20% Overdrive auxillary transmission so you can use all that new found power. <br>How's 1800 rpms at 75 mph sound?<br>11) A BD turbo mount exhaust brake to slow her down.<br><br>This information is based on my 19 years expierence modifying vehicles to fit the needs of individuals, buying parts that don't fit and making them work better than they where designed too, finding ways to put 850 hp to the ground with a 10 inch tire, soon to be 1100 hp 360 cubic inch small block chevy.<br>Leaving the starting line with the front wheels three feet in the air for the first 70 feet is a rush like you wouldn't beleive.<br><br>I love what I do! only second to my wife and kids.<br><br>I hope this helps<br>Ted Jannetty<br><br>------------------<br>Ted Jannetty, Owner President Jannetty Racing Enterprises Inc.<br><br>Hope this Helps.<br><br>Ed

 

1100 hp on a 360 cubic inch? Not bad man. Not bad at all. I read your post a LONG time ago (over a year) on the proper way to modify a Cummins. Helped me a lot. Still have it in the truck as a matter of fact. You have a couple of errors in there though. You forgot to mention twin turbos and drugs man.

 

The stock exhaust is good to almost 350 and the stock air filter is good to well over 400 hp before hurting power by any more than just a few hp. How far you want to go with modifications, and what the your budget looks like, will determine whhether these modifications are even necessary, let alone where they fall in the order of things. From a pure power standpoint, exhaust and air filter modifications represnt the worst money spent on enhancements, but become more necessary the higher up the scale you go..

 

For some of us (and we know who we are :) this is old news.....for the Noobies......this answers alot of questions on where to start.

 

I tend to disagree with Ted's upgrade path. The starting point though is always:

1) Gauges - Pyro, boost, fuel pressure, tranny temp
2) Fueling/Timing box - If you go with an aggressive one, keep the power turned down below the 60 HP setting (auto) or the 90 HP setting (manual)

After this, you need to decide what kind of power level you're after. If 300 ponies are going to be enough, go with an EZ in 2) and then:

3) Tranny upgrade - If you've got an automatic
4) Fueling system upgrade - high flow banjos should be plenty
5) Injectors - RV275s will get you the 300.

340 ponies:
2) Pick your favorite aggressive fueling box (Comp, PM3, FMS)
3) Tranny upgrade - pick your favorite auto or clutch
4) Fueling system upgrade - open up the lines from the stock lift pump to the injector pump
5) Air system - the stocker quits being useful at 320.
6) Injectors - again RV275s will get you to this power point.

340 and up:
2) Pick your favorite aggressive fueling box (Comp, PM3, FMS)
3) Tranny upgrade - pick your favorite auto or clutch
4) Fueling system upgrade - Pick your favorite aggressive upgrade
5) Air system - the stocker quits being useful at 320.
6) Injectors - Pick your favorite
7) 4&quot; exhaust - You may need to turn down the fueling box after 6) until you get 7 and 8 installed.
8) Turbo - pick your favorite single or twins
9) Drugs - I dislike propane. Go nitrous ;D

I don't recommend exhaust brakes unless you're towing, and the US Gear OD isn't all that useful unless you do cruise at 75 MPH. If you cruise at 60, your RPMs are typically too low and you fall out of the efficient running zone of the engine. ie) you likely won't see any mileage improvements.

Rod

 

Yeah Rod, I guess a few things have changed in the couple of years since since Ted first posted that. <br>Technology (and Diesel Power) marches on.........

 

What are the steps for the 12v crowd?????<br><br>Rick

 

Step 1: buy a 24V...........


Someone will jump in here with the right answer.

edit: Need to add one thing here, Rod has never given me bad advice.
I have learned much Oh Great Cummins Master........ I learned I need some more $$$$$, I'm not fast enough yet.

 

Probably the same except instead of fueling box, 3k or 4k GSK kits, adjust timing. UNDERvalver. Just had to go and make it that much more complicated for the newbies. ;D

 

[quote author=rharveysr link=board=10;threadid=11383;start=0#109031 date=1046210905]<br>What are the steps for the 12v crowd?????<br>[/quote]<br><br>You realize of course, Rick, that I will be forced to beat you vigourously with a stick next time I see you.<br><br>I'm not completely comfortable with the 12 valve world, but it does become much more important to plan what you want to end up with. A 12 valve isn't like a 24 in that you can't turn down the box if your EGTs get out of hand.<br><br>Of course, gauges are still a first step. After this, we've found that the stock turbo seems to be handle a mild cam plate, and Marine 300 injectors, if you add a Scotty II and 4&quot; exhaust to the mix.<br><br>Past this (370s, delivery valves, aggressive plates, etc etc) you end up looking at a turbo as well. How big a turbo depends on how many ponies.<br><br>Rod

 

Ok, you experts. Let's take my upgrades and see what we've come up for ponies. Following the advice over the past year, I've bombed in the following sequence:<br><br>1. Gauges, all four.<br>2. BHAF, with outerwear<br>3. High Flow banjos (same time the fuel pressure gauge went in.)<br>4. Tranny upgraded<br>5. EZ (on #3 pin) installed at same time as Tranny upgraded<br>6. Injectors installed, DDII's. Can we say smoke ;D ;D<br><br>What range of hp do you think I'm in? I know there's a dyno days coming up (Piers, I believe) and we can get verification, but I'm naturally curious to know where I'm at.<br><br>~Dave

 

<br><br>Dont promise me with a good time ...<br> ;D ;D ;D<br><br>Rick

 

[quote author=NWDave link=board=10;threadid=11383;start=0#109063 date=1046214500]<br>1. Gauges, all four.<br>2. BHAF, with outerwear<br>3. High Flow banjos (same time the fuel pressure gauge went in.)<br>4. Tranny upgraded<br>5. EZ (on #3 pin) installed at same time as Tranny upgraded<br>6. Injectors installed, DDII's. Can we say smoke ;D ;D<br><br>What range of hp do you think I'm in? I know there's a dyno days coming up (Piers, I believe) and we can get verification, but I'm naturally curious to know where I'm at.<br>[/quote]<br><br>-10 HP. The BHAF killed 'er dude. <br><br>Sorry Dave, couldn't resist. Yer probably somewhere in the 330 range...<br><br>Rod

 

I`ll put the bet @ Just under 300/540 .<br>Trash the tractor filter and get something that Sucks cooler air. (not gunna do the CooOOOoooLLer air thing)<br> Danny<br>Had to do it once ;D

 

Is the BHAF that bad for power?