Anybody know anything about putting up a fence??
06-24-2007, 12:24 AM
#18
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That's all kind of what I was thinking. One bag of sakrete per post and heck yes I would rent an auger. It almost seems like the pre-made panels would take more effort to get them lined up right especially since my yard has a slant. I forget how many linear feet it is but I really only need to do two and a half sides because my neighbor already has a fence up that I could butt up against. I think I figured like 25 or 28 of the 6' panels...
So how many of you are coming over to help????
So how many of you are coming over to help????
06-24-2007, 12:37 AM
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Not sure about that. Of all the posts that I have replaced or removed over the years I have seen a lot more rot on wood that was just in plain dirt versus those that were set in concrete. If wood posts lasted longer in dirt then why would they recommend to set them in concrete?
06-24-2007, 05:20 AM
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Thanks for all the replies men. There's a number you call here for "Miss Utility". They will come out and mark any utility lines or pipes in the area where you plan on digging. It's the law here that you call them and it's free too.
I've got levels from my bricklaying days. I would definitely not eyeball it....
What about the plastic fence materials? Anybody done those before? I've seen the panels in white plastic but I haven't seen the raw materials available though. I'm not talking about the "Trex" or whatever that really expensive stuff is called....
I'm in Virginia up near Washington DC. That's a bit too far for you to come just to help put up a fence. I appreciate it though...
I've got levels from my bricklaying days. I would definitely not eyeball it....
What about the plastic fence materials? Anybody done those before? I've seen the panels in white plastic but I haven't seen the raw materials available though. I'm not talking about the "Trex" or whatever that really expensive stuff is called....
I'm in Virginia up near Washington DC. That's a bit too far for you to come just to help put up a fence. I appreciate it though...
06-24-2007, 06:58 AM
#21
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Remember one thing about the locater services. They typically do not locate your water line from the house to the meter. The rest of the utilities they'll do, everything in the right-of-way they'll do, just not from the meter to the house. Take care!
06-24-2007, 08:39 AM
#22
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Vinyl fencind comes in peices.. I install it and it is very easy.. You'll just need to find a supplier. I agree do not buy the panels!! Concrete every post!! Used treated posts. Get a straight line and level. IF you want it done right you need to set your posts and concrete them and let them sit overnight possible 24 hours if you can.. The longer the concrete can cure the better.. If you have a compresser, air guns and saws you can make the job very easy.. A framing gun can be used to shoot on the rails for your fencing (if your using cedar). If you need help on the vinyl let me know... I've done 1000's of feet of it!!
Shane
Shane
06-24-2007, 08:41 AM
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Only excpetion to that is local avalliability, here it is hard (almost impossible) to get #1 & Better cedar thicker than 1/2", still the better than treated pine IMO, but thinner.
06-24-2007, 10:27 AM
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Just to give you a general idea, installed fencing in this area is anywhere from $16- $24 per linear foot. $24 per foot is for redwood. The concrete Vs. Dirt debate goes on. I have always seen concrete rot posts. I have seen 30+ year old redwood posts in dirt that did not rot. Hard to say which is better. I guess it depends on your soil, amount of exposure to moisture, etc.
< edit> Using your numbers ( approx. 28- 6 foot pre made panels) I estimate 168 linear feet. At $24 per linear foot ( for redwood) The entire job installed comes to $4032.00. My area is more expensive than most so I'd say that your estimate is high. One more note. When I build a fence I like to use 3 rails instead of 2. Makes for a stronger fence. Also with a 3rd attachment point for the facing boards they are less likely to come off in a high wind or by a dog bouncing off of them. Just my preference. I also never use nails. Screws are a better way to go.
< edit> Using your numbers ( approx. 28- 6 foot pre made panels) I estimate 168 linear feet. At $24 per linear foot ( for redwood) The entire job installed comes to $4032.00. My area is more expensive than most so I'd say that your estimate is high. One more note. When I build a fence I like to use 3 rails instead of 2. Makes for a stronger fence. Also with a 3rd attachment point for the facing boards they are less likely to come off in a high wind or by a dog bouncing off of them. Just my preference. I also never use nails. Screws are a better way to go.
06-24-2007, 01:25 PM
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Vinyl fencind comes in peices.. I install it and it is very easy.. You'll just need to find a supplier. I agree do not buy the panels!! Concrete every post!! Used treated posts. Get a straight line and level. IF you want it done right you need to set your posts and concrete them and let them sit overnight possible 24 hours if you can.. The longer the concrete can cure the better.. If you have a compresser, air guns and saws you can make the job very easy.. A framing gun can be used to shoot on the rails for your fencing (if your using cedar). If you need help on the vinyl let me know... I've done 1000's of feet of it!!
Shane
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06-24-2007, 01:29 PM
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I've put up alot of barbed wire fence. Like someone else suggested , set your posts (cement them in) and let them sit overnight. I always get up at daylight and start setting them so that way they sit all day and night. Then get up the next morning and have at it.
06-24-2007, 02:35 PM
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One more thing !
Zilla put some gravel in the bottom of your fence post holes about 3-4 inches then use the concrete the gravel allows for drainage under the post and from my experience the posts last longer.
06-24-2007, 03:12 PM
#30
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Also, alot of municipalities are coding for galvanaized posts now instead of any wood being in the ground.