04ctd

buddy has a sprayer deal (I dunno much more than that)

i plan to put a roller on a broom handle,
and get a roller with a BIG NAP to have some depth to it.

maybe sprinkle sand on it for traction?

the floor is currently a mottled nasty looking gray,
and it is SLICK.

it's hard to get motorcycles in and out, with it so slick.
wet (rain) it is very slick (dangerous in some shoes)

i have two 5 gallon buckets of Behr Stain.

2 car garage, how much will i need, just one 5 gal bucket?

oldmikegraham

My buddy tried doing his own an a new house. Turned out bad. Surface prep is the deal breaker, not what or how you are spraying it.

madhat

Gotta clean that thing good!!! If you want to wait till sometime this week/next weekend, I'll come help you move stuff around. Got a pressure washer? Need to degrease the floor good and make sure that it's clean. Watch the weather too, see what the max and min temps for applying are. I have lots of masking tape, LMK and I'll get it for you. Sheets, too. Lots and lots of them...

satburn

Clean, clean, clean... Depending on the surface you may want to consider an acid etch.

http://www.superdeck.com/masonsselect/msfaq.htm

http://www.concretenetwork.com/stain...reparation.htm

PistolWhipt

Now, there is a true sailor for ya .... putting non-skid in his own garage .

Definately a good plan though .. oil on smooth concrete has bad written all over it !!


PISTOL

annabelle

Clean w/ muratic acid 9:1 ratio. Make sure you have no open flames when you apply the paint. If you want texture use ground glass you can get from a commercial paint supplier.

bumpytruck

As stated above prep is the deal breaker,you will have to acid wash if you want it to last.And make sure the floor was not previously sealed(very important),before you. And I'm sure you'll have too seal the acid stained floor when your done,and the sealer is what will make your floor slick,so thats were you will want to add your shark grip,(ground glass),in your sealer not the stain,And I'm sure 5gals should get the job done.

annabelle

Are you staining or painting? 10 gallons is more than enough.

04ctd

no, it is a new house,
not sure what caused that mottled gray look, but it is virgin, has not been anything done to it before.

here:
seal the acid stained floor when your done
are you saying to Acid wash the floor with the aforementioned muriatic acid at 9:1 ratio, and then i have to seal it again?

and then, after I seal it, and put the stain on top of the sealer?

sealer is what will make your floor slick, so thats were you will want to add your shark grip, (ground glass),in your sealer not the stain


that's too much work for me.

here's what I was planning to do:
-pressure wash concrete,
-let dry.
-mop with Castrol Greased Lightning in the purple bottle, pretty strong.
-pressure rinse.
-let dry.

put that stuff in the bucket on it, whether it's paint, stain, sealer, whatever,
and put something in it for grip, the shark grip, (ground glass), sounds like the right answer.

annabelle

They probably put a concrete sealer on the whole slab after thay poured and finished it. There are mant types of sealer, from water to petro. based. The acid wash will remove any sealer, and prep the slab. If you don't want to have to repeat the painting process, I recommend a two part epoxy. I've used it on 100,000's of thousands of sqft. Including hangers where caustic fluid as been leaked on it. Have had it wear due to heavy traffic, but not spills.

madhat

Dude, knowing you, you'll burn your house down. Call someone and drop the change...

04ctd

Nah, i caught the garage on fire last week....
gonna try something different this week...


I am very familiar with two part epoxy, used it on the Boats.
but, I already have this stuff, and may as well use it.

http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/p...atings&catId=5


New Concrete:

* Must cure for a minimum of 30 days.
* Remove all dirt, grease and oil with BEHR NO. 990 CONCRETE CLEANER & DEGREASER. Follow all label instructions.
* Remove mildew stains with BEHR® NO. 62 MULTI-SURFACE CLEANER & MILDEW STAIN REMOVER. Follow all label instructions.
* For proper penetration and adhesion to smooth, dense concrete, use BEHR NO. 991 CONCRETE ETCHER & RUST REMOVER. Follow all label instructions.
* Wear appropriate eye, skin and apparel protection when applying etching solution. Protect plants and other surfaces from splashing.
* Tip: Use a plastic watering can to apply the etcher.
* Working in small sections, apply solution into surface with a stiff bristle broom. On sloped surfaces, work from the lowest point to the highest.
* Allow etching solution to remain on surface for 5 to 10 minutes. Keep area wet before and during etching. Scrub while rinsing thoroughly with clean water and allow to dry.
* Tip: A pressure washer may be used for best results.
* Test the surface by applying duct tape to the etched areas and pull back up. The tape must be clean and free of any concrete dust or dirt. If particles or a white residue are still present, it must be removed with additional scrubbing and rinsing with BEHR NO. 990 CONCRETE CLEANER & DEGREASER. Check the surface for water penetration by applying a few drops of water. Water should penetrate the surface.
* For best results, apply BEHR NO. 880 CONCRETE BONDING PRIMER. Follow all label instructions.
* Allow Concrete Bonding Primer to dry at least 8 hours before topcoating.



Painted, Stained or Sealed Concrete:

* Use over existing coatings may not provide optimal performance.
* De-gloss old coating to promote adhesion.
* Remove any loose or peeling paint by scraping, wire brushing or grinding.
* For best results, follow all steps under "New Concrete" for etching and priming instructions.

Application

* DO NOT THIN.
* Allow all concrete surfaces to dry completely before applying stain. Stain will not adhere or penetrate on a wet surface.
* When working with more than one container of the same color, intermix to ensure color uniformity.
* Stir stain before and occasionally during application.
* Use product when surface and air temperature is between 50-90ºF (10-32ºC).
* Avoid applying stain in direct sunlight or to "hot" surfaces.
* Apply a thin even coat using a 1/4"-3/8" nap roller cover or nylon polyester brush.
* Apply at a spread rate of 400-600 square feet (37-56 m²) per gallon.
* If the concrete is broken into sections, apply stain in sections for ease of application.
* Smooth out stain with long even strokes in one direction.
* Concrete varies in porosity therefore two coats may be required for uniform color appearance. Wait 24 hours before determining to apply a second coat. If a second coat is needed, apply in the opposite direction from the first coat.
Note: Horizontal surfaces may be subject to premature wear therefore periodic touch-ups may be necessary. Retain any leftover stain for this purpose.

Dry Time

* Allow 24 hours before recoating or subjecting to light foot traffic.
* Allow 72 hours before subjecting stained surface to automobile tires. Park tires on corrugated cardboard for 14 days after applying stain.
* Allow all newly stained surfaces to dry for 72 hours before repositioning objects such as planter boxes and furniture.
* Additional dry time is needed in cooler temperatures and higher humidity.