Totallyrad

My stepson has a 98 Intrepid V6 that has two problems. It will just quit running and sometimes it just won't start. It will save 3 codes P0300 (multiple misfires), P0301 (Misfire Cyl 1) and P0302 (Misfire Cyl 2). If you pull the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes the codes will clear and the car will run like nothing's wrong. I've replaced the plugs and moved the coil packs around to no avail. The only thing that will help is the battery pull. Star says it has to be in a no run or run poor condition to tell what's wrong. Our problem is that it may sit a few hours and crank. I can't guarantee a no start condition when it goes in and wreckers are expensive. My thought is the PCM but I'm not sure.

torquefan

Have seen several issues with cam and crank sensors on those cars. They can be very intermittent but may eventually throw a code. As much as I hate to throw parts at something, if it was my customer, I would be tempted to replace both sensors and give it a try. Those PCMs are usually pretty durable and I haven't had to replace one.

Totallyrad

Thanks Torguefan.

andyt

My mom had a '02 Interpid v6. It was doing the exact same thing. Dealer wanted to replace the PCM @ $900. We said no and Dad changed out the cam sensor for like $50 and it fixed it. Worth a shot to do the cam and crank sensors before you throw money at the pcm. Good luck.

Totallyrad

Roger that Andyt. I did some additional research today and to test the cam sensor you have to pull the intake manifold, at least the upper half. If I end up there, I'll just replace it rather than have to pull the intake a second time. I've been wondering about something on the side of the head, attached to a ground cable. I finally found out today that there is a resister on each side of the block and I suspect they have something to do with the coils. Although they are not listed on Dodge's part computers by referencing the pictures or parts breakdown, they are available if you can find the right parts guy. Out of the 5 guys in the parts department where I was, one had heard of them. We finally located the part number and I'll have 2 new ones tomorrow. I've suspected the one on the driver's side because the plastic surrounding the spade connector looks like it has been hot. The wire on the connector is also missing the first inch of insulation.

GIT-R-DONE

Keep us posted on how this turns out

gorms

I'll second (er third) the cam/crank angle sensors. My uncle has a 99 Sebring I believe, he tried everything else like plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc. Sometimes wouldn't rev clean, or excessive cranking to start, or stalling out. For his car we couldn't get the cam sensor separate from the coil pack, so we got the whole thing (like $250) but it cured all problems up. Cleaning up/checking all wiring connections while it's down, even if it isn't the problem, is always a good idea for preventative maintenance.

grouch

Like previous posters have mentioned, this is classic cam or crank position sensor failure. When one fails, the engine computer never gets a signal to fire so it doesn't.

Totallyrad

It crapped again this afternoon. Whatever is the problem is getting close to totally going out. We can drive the car about 20-30 minutes and it quits. When we got it in this evening I shot the tops of the resistors with a temperature gun. The driver's side was about 30 degrees warmer than the passenger's side.

grouch

What ever the problem part is, it has an internal fault. When it warms up, the internal crack will widen and the part will cease to function. These can be pesky because when you remove the part and test it, the internal parts will cool and close the gap. If one resistor is more exposed to the air flow, it will be cooler.

torquefan

T-Rad, I kinda remember the parts you are speaking of; they are usually attached right in front of the valve covers. I think those were noise suppressors for the radio, and don't recall one ever causing trouble. I'll have to keep watching this thread to see if replacing one fixes it.

justme-

Cyl 1 and Cyl 2 are the 2 front cyls- odds on one side evens on the other so whatever the issue is it is not confined to a side of the engine.
Try dodgeintrepid.net - wealth of LH knowledge there. I'm not fluent in 1st gen LH (wife has an 01 ES with the 3.2L that noone seems to believe me exists - predecessor to the 3.5 in the RT)

SolarExpress

I believe you Justme because we also have an '01 Intrepid ES w/3.2l. As of two weeks ago, it became my daughters ride. It had 70K miles on it when I inherited it from my wife in '07. It has 136K miles now. Great car. Rides and handles great. Also, I thought the '98 year model was the first year of the second gen Intrepid?

Totallyrad

Might be, the dealer doesn't know for sure.

I believe you're right about the 98.

I changed the resistors and used a heat gun to raise the temperature of the driver's side resistor. I ran it up to 280, 100 degrees hotter than it was the night before, no change. I guess the next step is the cam sensor. What sucks is the fact that you have to pull the intake to change it, even though it's right in front of you. Stupid 3.2!

gorms

If that intrepid is anything like my uncle's sebring, changed the valve cover gaskets while you're in there, particularly the seals around the spark plug hole. His were so bad the oil was seeping into the cylinders overnight, fowling plugs. You would never know it until you pulled a boot and looked, they are probably recessed 6 or more inches. Have fun!