Garverless

I have a 1994 12v with about 200,000 if it is below 50 degrees it has it be plugged in or it will not even start also you have to hold your foot on the accelerator to keep running.

46mech

Garverless,<br><br> I know this probably sounds too simple, but my first thought is......how old are your batteries? They may not have enough juice to kick over the motor when it's cold. <br> As far as having to keep your foot on the &quot;go-pedal,&quot; there could be other factors to think about, but I would think that if your batteries aren't strong and the intake heater grid is drawing so much juice as it's cycling.........especially if this is really only a problem during colder temps.<br> You could always adjust your low idle up, but that's not saying that is the problem with not having the fueling to keep it running during cold starts.

Alan_Reagan

It sounds like the grid heaters aren't coming on at all with what you are describing. After it starts, are you getting the lights &quot;dimming&quot; as the heaters cycle on and off? If not, you may have the fuse to the grid heaters blown or the relay is not working.

greatwhite

I would agree with Smoke Dog. Sounds like the grid heater isn't heating up. You should hear a very audible click (chunk) when your wait to start light goes out, and then perhaps a few more cycles as the engine warms up depending on outside air temp. And your voltmeter should drop on the engage click and rise to &quot;normal&quot; on the disengage click.

Garverless

The batteries are new no help. Where are the heating grids at and how do i check them. Thanks for the help.

Garverless

How do you adjust the low idle too.

RCW

What you describe as hard starting at 50 degrees sounds like plugged fuel filters. Be sure you have changed your primary filter, and that the screen in the preheater (located under the primary filter and in front of the lift pump) is clean.

I run without any heaters, and have for years. I use winterized fuel, and I only have to plug in if it is below 10 degrees F. for extended periods.

Alan_Reagan

I agree with RCW on checking the filters.<br><br>The grids are located between the intake manifold cover and the intake air horn. If you take the four bolts out of the air horn and gently lift it off, you'll see the grids. Before you remove the plenum to look at the grids try this:<br><br>When you switch the key to the on position, the Wait to Start light should come on and there should be an audible click under the hood. That's the relay turning on the grids and they should get hot, fast. The voltmeter on the dash should pull down to about 10 volts. When the wait to start light goes out, the voltage should rise and she is ready to crank. After the truck is started, they will continue to cycle on and off and you should notice the voltage pulling down to about 10-12 for about 5 seconds and then returning to full charge. If it's not doing this, I would say the relay or the grids are bad or has a bad connection. <br><br>To eliminate the relay, just swap the one that controls the grids with another in the relay panel and see if it works.

Alan_Reagan

For the idle adjusment go here:

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adj...d_Gen-Idle.htm

Just feel for the butterfly on the back of the pump. You'll feel the idle adjustment bolt. I adjust from the drivers side. The link above recommends going in from the front. Not me.

Garverless

Thanks guys i will try some of this stuff this weekend when I can steal MY truck back from my little brother. I will get back to you.