IBenDCars

2000 CTD Ram 2500
I have been having charging issues and decided the alt. was bad. I was just getting ready to remove the alt. after not driving for two days I moved it 25 feet into a better parking spot. I shut it off. I pulled the fan belt off then got a phone call. When I got back to the truck the wires going into the terminals on the square intake pipe thing were smoking. Not sure of exact terminology. I think it is the grid heater or something like that. I immediately pulled the battery cables off. Luckily I had the hood open and working on it. I just want to know what would cause the thing to start smoking the wires. The rubber cover on the wire on the back side of the intake pipe closest to the engine is melted. The aluminium sqaure pipe is discolored from the heat I guess. It is brown. Whats going on here???

Ramdriver15

this happend to my truck about 2 weeeks ago. you prrobly have a stuck relay. they are located on the driver wheel hump in the engine compartment and are most likley stuck closed.

IBenDCars

Is the relay a parts store part or Dealer only part? Is it in the fuse box or the little things beside the fuse box??

torquefan

Yep, sounds like Ramdriver's right. Probably wasn't anything wrong with the alternator. It was putting out lots of current, but it was all going to the preheater that was on all the time.

torquefan

They are not the small square relays found in the relay bank. These are heavy duty relays like a Ford starter relay. There are two mounted together on the driver side inner fender. I usually replace them with a dealer part, but some people have been known to retrofit a pair of aftermarket Ford starter relays.

infidel

The two relays are almost under the driver's side battery, just follow the heavy wires from the intake to them.
I use nongrounded Ford starter relays for replacement, about $10 from any autoparts store.
Or you can go to the dealer and pay $80 each for them.

IBenDCars

Well today is Sunday and I have to work all week while the dealer is open so I am wanting more details about the Ford starter relays like are they a simple replacement?? Obviously they would have the big wire in and out but what about the two small wires going into each relay?? Does the Ford also have two little wire terminals and which would go where?? More info please as I would like to repair my truck today.

infidel

The non grounded starter relays have two big and two small terminals, grounded ones only have one small terminal. It doesn't matter which terminal the small (or big ones for that matter) go on, they are reversible.

At some point, probably before 2000, the trigger signal was switched from positive to negative. In this case you must use a relay with a non grounded case.

You don't need to tell them what year Ford, same relay was used for over thirty years.
You will have to change the connectors on some of the wires, no big deal, just crimp on some new ones.

Any autoparts guy worth his salt should be able to help you out, many people use these Ford relays for offroad lights and other situations where a high amp relay is required.

IBenDCars

I just went out and looked at my 65 Lincoln Continental derby car in the garage and the starter relay looks exactly like the on in the pic. I will go get two new ones and replace them both. I was only worried about where the little wires go. Can you give me a little more info on what the little wires do and where they come from?? If there are two of them just making sure they are interchangeable. I am going to do it just want to know more info.

infidel

The two small wires are used to trigger the relay coil which in turn turns on the "switch" to power the grids.
Like I said at some point Dodge switched negative for positive as to which lead is "hot" all the time.
I'm thinking on your 2000 the small ground wire is switched on and off from the PCM when the computer calls for grid heat, positive is always present at the relay. The computer (PCM) gets it's signal for grid heat from the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor. These sensors are known to get carboned up and not perform well but on a 24 valve will result in poor engine performance before they get bad enough to effect the grids.

You can find out with a meter or test light which small terminal is on all the time but it won't make any difference which terminal the wires are connected to as long as the relay case isn't grounded.

Ramdriver15

on my 96 they go to the:
1) PCM, this wire recieves a signal for the temp senor in the intake.
2)these are power wires that work with the ignition. They will cut power during crank, due to the high amperage. Also when the key is off they should have no power.


The power wire on my 96 is the one close to the driver on each relay. But as infidel said they can be reversible and still work properly.

IBenDCars

So I could also use my volt meter/test light to exactly determine power going through the bad relay to definitely diagnose bad part instead of a bad IAT sending signal. I think the motor should have more power than it does so when I read that it got me thinking. I am going out to get the test light right now and poke around.

infidel

I try to avoid working on 24 valves, just know that people remove and clean the sensors.
Here's instructions http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/sensors/IAT/clean.htm

IBenDCars

Well it is the relay towards the back of the truck. I am going to go get two new ones and replace them both. I will not worry about the IAT because it would be sending power to both relays (right) and it acts like only one is bad.

IBenDCars

infidel You are awesome thanks for the help, that is why I love this board, always someone that knows what they are doing willing to help out people that know a lot less and are asking questions