Tach dies, and p0336 and p1690 code
#1
Tach dies, and p0336 and p1690 code
I've been trolling this forum for quite some time now and have been able to use the info I get from searching to solve my problems, but this time I'm stuck. I had an issue with really rough starts and the tach droping to zero. I found that the tone ring had broken and taken out the crank position sensor. I replaced both and now I'm getting an issue where the truck runs good till it hits about 1700rpm and the tach drops to zero and I loose power. I scan the truck and am getting 2 codes, p0336 and p1690. I don't know how to fix the issue or even no which direction to look. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The truck is a 2000 Dodge 3500 4x4 manual tranny with no power adders
The truck is a 2000 Dodge 3500 4x4 manual tranny with no power adders
#2
Update.
I threw in the towel and brought the truck to a mechanic. It turns out that when the engine hits about 1700rpm the crank sensor gets a bad signal from the tone ring and says the motor is at 150rpm. I was told to check the tone ring and make sure the clearance is correct. Maybe I didn't install the ring the right way and it is too far away at the higher rpms. The mechanic also said the crank bearings have some play in them and they might be allowing the crank to move away from the sensor once there is a load on it.
Looks like I'll be lifting the motor again.
I threw in the towel and brought the truck to a mechanic. It turns out that when the engine hits about 1700rpm the crank sensor gets a bad signal from the tone ring and says the motor is at 150rpm. I was told to check the tone ring and make sure the clearance is correct. Maybe I didn't install the ring the right way and it is too far away at the higher rpms. The mechanic also said the crank bearings have some play in them and they might be allowing the crank to move away from the sensor once there is a load on it.
Looks like I'll be lifting the motor again.
#3
Cummins Guru
After you remove starter and crankshaft sensor has a grove in it, or looks like it has been damaged from something hitting it, remove the engines oil pan and check for loose crankshaft tone wheel. The tone wheel on this engine is two pieces
CRANKSHAFT TONE WHEEL
REMOVAL
1.Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2.Remove the oil pan and suction tube. Refer to procedure in this group.
3.Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471B, rotate the crankshaft so the small section of the ring is facing away from the engine.
4.Remove the #6 main bearing cap.
5.Remove the two bolts fastening the small section of the wheel to the crankshaft. Remove the small section Removing/Installing Small Section of Tone Wheel
6.Using the barring tool, rotate the crankshaft and remove the three bolts from the large section of the tone wheel.
7.Rotate the large section of the ring off of the crankshaft Removing Installing Large Section of Tone Wheel The crankshaft might have to be rotated to allow clearance for removal.
CLEANING
Clean the tone wheel with a suitable solvent. Rinse with hot water and blow dry with compressed air. Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and crankshaft are free of all debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the tone wheel for missing teeth, cracks, or a damaged mounting surface Inspecting Tone Wheel for Damage Place the wheel on a known flat surface and verify that it is not out of flat. Replace the tone wheel if any of these conditions are found
INSTALLATION
1.Install the large section of the tone wheel.
2.Coat the bolts with MoparŽ Lock 'N Seal or LoctiteŽ 242, install and torque to 8 Nˇm (71 in. lbs.) torque.
3.Rotate the crankshaft and install the small section of the tone wheel.
4.Coat the bolts with MoparŽ Lock 'N Seal or LoctiteŽ 242, install and torque to 8 Nˇm (71 in. lbs.) torque.
5.Install the #6 main bearing cap. Install the bolts and torque in three steps:
Step 1 - Preliminary 60 Nˇm (44. ft. lbs.)
Step 2 - Secondary 119 Nˇm (88 ft. lbs.)
Step 3 - Final 176 Nˇm (129 ft. lbs.)
6.Using a new gasket, install the oil pan and suction tube. Refer to procedure in this group.
7.Add engine oil.
8.Connect the battery negative cables and start engine.
CRANKSHAFT TONE WHEEL
REMOVAL
1.Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2.Remove the oil pan and suction tube. Refer to procedure in this group.
3.Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471B, rotate the crankshaft so the small section of the ring is facing away from the engine.
4.Remove the #6 main bearing cap.
5.Remove the two bolts fastening the small section of the wheel to the crankshaft. Remove the small section Removing/Installing Small Section of Tone Wheel
6.Using the barring tool, rotate the crankshaft and remove the three bolts from the large section of the tone wheel.
7.Rotate the large section of the ring off of the crankshaft Removing Installing Large Section of Tone Wheel The crankshaft might have to be rotated to allow clearance for removal.
CLEANING
Clean the tone wheel with a suitable solvent. Rinse with hot water and blow dry with compressed air. Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and crankshaft are free of all debris.
INSPECTION
Inspect the tone wheel for missing teeth, cracks, or a damaged mounting surface Inspecting Tone Wheel for Damage Place the wheel on a known flat surface and verify that it is not out of flat. Replace the tone wheel if any of these conditions are found
INSTALLATION
1.Install the large section of the tone wheel.
2.Coat the bolts with MoparŽ Lock 'N Seal or LoctiteŽ 242, install and torque to 8 Nˇm (71 in. lbs.) torque.
3.Rotate the crankshaft and install the small section of the tone wheel.
4.Coat the bolts with MoparŽ Lock 'N Seal or LoctiteŽ 242, install and torque to 8 Nˇm (71 in. lbs.) torque.
5.Install the #6 main bearing cap. Install the bolts and torque in three steps:
Step 1 - Preliminary 60 Nˇm (44. ft. lbs.)
Step 2 - Secondary 119 Nˇm (88 ft. lbs.)
Step 3 - Final 176 Nˇm (129 ft. lbs.)
6.Using a new gasket, install the oil pan and suction tube. Refer to procedure in this group.
7.Add engine oil.
8.Connect the battery negative cables and start engine.
#4
Tone ring has already been done. I was told that the crank has some front to back movement and that could be causing the sensor to give a bad reading. I did some searching and found there are thrust bearings in the motor but I would like to know what the proceedure is to replace them and if there is anything else I should look at before I get into it.
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