N777TC

CAN SOMEONE HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM?
2003 3500HO AUTO.STARTS UP THEN DIES AFTER 1 MINITE,WILL START UP RIGHT AWAY BUT ONLY RUNS A FEW SECONDS.
IF I WAIT 10 MINITES OR SO IT REPEATS THE SAME PROBLEM.
AFTER IT STALLS,CHECKED FILTER AND IT IS DRY.
ITS 20 DEGREES HERE I PUT FUEL ADDITIVE AFTER THIS HAPPENED.DO I HAVE A GELING PROBLEM
THANK YOU FOR ANY ADVICE.CHRIS

Jeff in TD

Forgive me for covering the obvious, but are you using a duplicate key or an original equipment key?

phox_mulder

When you say you checked the filter, that would be the fuel filter right?

If it is dry, then you aren't getting any fuel to it or through it.
Now you have air in the system as well.

Gelling problem shows up first at the filter, fuel forms waxes that clog the filter.

Not sure on exactly how the 3rd gen fuel system works, but it sounds like your lift pump (or 3rd gen equivelent) is very dead.

I'd get it to the Dealer or other qualified mechanic quick.


phox

dieselcrazy

do u have security keys in those new trucks ?? using the right key ?? my moms explorer does something like that hope u figure it out

Jeff in TD

That was kind of what I was driving at. If you try to start an engine imobilizer equipped vehicle (gray handled keys) with a duplicate key that has no chip (hardware store duplicate, or black handled DC key), or with a key which doesn't deliver the correct codes to the ECM, it will run normally for less than 1 minute, then shut off.

Try again within a few minutes, and it will only run a few seconds...


If it isn't a security key issue, the other thing you could try: Bump the key to start too briefly to actually crank up the engine, and let the key return to the run position.

As it sits with the key on and engine not running after bumping onto start, you should be able to hear the lift pump running until it primes, comes up to pressure and shuts off, about 20 seconds or so.

If you don't hear the pump run doing the above, that could be the problem. If the pump can be heard running briefly, the above procedure could allow it to reprime and purge air and perhaps solve the problem.

I doubt you would have jelling problems at 20 degrees.

When the engine does run, does it sound normal, or run rough?

Was any service done to the engine prior to the problem? (drained fuel filter, or changed filter?)

P.S. When you say the filter was dry, am I correct in assuming that you mean there wasn't any water in what you drained from the fuel filter? Or did you mean that there was no fuel? (I'm not sure what the ECM cuts off to stop the engine if it doesn't get a good code from the security key).