infidel

I've sent a lot of folks to Dodge to get the seals done rather than do it myself, it's a PITA. Dodge charges $150 per side, almost worth it.

McGyver

Well,

My Truck is back together and test driven. Brakes work well now and don't pull to the right.

I did not replace the passenger side axle seal, I'm going to keep an eye on it. I still see some oil dripping slowly out of it, but I think it may very well be residual oil from the momentary axle removal.

I suppose if it's bad, I'll have to tear back into the right side and follow some steps that some of you left me.

I'm a whole lot more confident doing the job if they turn out to be bad. I suppose I can R&R everything and get it finished in short order now after the complete brake job. Thanks to all who posted and gave their .02 worth. All that posted really helped me sort things out. Nice to know there are guys and gals out there that are willing to give some quick help when a guy is in a pickle.

I'll write back to this post in a day or so and let you all know if it's really bad or not... If you are interested. If anybody needs help or advice on doing a Rotor replacement, let me know and I can walk you through it. Better than paying the shop some big $ as It wasn't that bad!

Thanks Again... and Cheers

J BODY

Mcgyver, I received a message that you attempted a private message to me. for some reason I keep getting notification that I've "recieved my alloted number" or something like that, but yet I only have one message in my folder as I keep deleting old ones to keep the space open. I'll have to try to get to the bottom of this.

infidel

Check your sent items folder, my bet is it has more than the alloted 50 messages in it.

berner

I've done my right side twice. First time I bent the seal. $150 labour is cheap for the job. The proper installation tool couldn't be much more than that. Next time.........

Redleg

I concur with waiting to see if it leaks heavily. Driving might even pull it back into shape. I've always been told, unless it's gushing, just keep an eye on the level and leave it. If your axles aren't spotless, you'll be wasting your time, unless your prepared to replace the axles too. Emery paper won't be enuff if there are any pits left. I've never tried those sleeves, they sound just like the right thing. Don't waste your money on a gasket for the diff cover. You might drive it awhile and drain the fluid to check for small bits of rubber. If the seal was just compressed, you might be ok. If it got cut buy a spline, I would wonder if axle rotation would take it right off, and maybe suck it in. I doubt this would hurt an open diff, but I'd worry about if you had a clutch in there.

McGyver

J BODY,

No problem. I think I was just writing you asking about a step in the R&R process...

Between the links that were hyperlinked to some of the reply's and lots of input, I got the job done. Just checking for leakage now in that seal that I buggered up. (The new brakes work sweet!)

Thanks for all of the input from the DTR bretheren, No oil in the driveway this morning. I'll be taking a longer trip than around town this weekend - Then we'll see...

Cheers,

Pete

ps. I found an old link from Palmer livestock company that really helped... isn't that CATTLEHAULER?

infidel

Another common cause of leaking front seals is overfilling the differential. Heed your owner's manual, mine says full is 3/4 inch below the bottom of the fill hole.
100% of the axles I've come across that were filled to the bottom of the hole quit leaking once fluid was removed, or if you don't mind the mess till they leaked down to the correct level.

Overfilled differentials and transmissions also run hotter than a properly filled one.
More isn't better.