HELP! If you have an EMERGENCY situation with your truck, or you need IMMEDIATE technical help, use this board.

Replaced Slave cylinder...now have Low Clutch Pedal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-22-2008, 07:34 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Exclamation Replaced Slave cylinder...now have Low Clutch Pedal

I recently replaced the slave cylinder on my 98. I replaced it following the provided instructions exactly.

I now have a good bit of play in my clutch pedal. It engages very low and close to the floor.

I was very thorough in bleeding the system of any air.

This new slave cylinder came with (2) little plastic retaining straps that are connected to the plastic nose cap on the end of the rod.

The instructions are clear in saying that these straps are NOT to be cut and are to be retained for proper adjustment.

When I removed my old slave cylinder, it had NO plastic retaining straps at all. It appeared there were straps at one time though.

Like I said, I was very thorough in bleeding all the air out.

Would it be ok to cut these (2) little plastic retaining straps (like my old one was) to get the slop out of the pedal ?
Old 01-22-2008, 11:01 AM
  #2  
Registered User
 
Dave Miller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ahwahnee, Ca
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I just replaced my clutch with SBC 13 " upgraded one. I also replaced the master-slave-resovouir as one unit for about $200 from SBC. I read lots about failed attempts at bleeding the clutch system and conluded that it requires a pressure bleeder to do it right and its best to replace the master-slave with resovouir as a unit. Just my 2 cents. Hope you get it worked out.
Old 01-22-2008, 11:55 AM
  #3  
Registered User
 
Jerrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chillicothe, Texas
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The plastic strap just keeps it in place while you install it. Right before you get it all the way in cut the plastic and bolt it up
Old 01-22-2008, 12:47 PM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Arrow

Originally Posted by Jerrod
The plastic strap just keeps it in place while you install it. Right before you get it all the way in cut the plastic and bolt it up
That's what I was thinking.

The instructions don't say that though. It says to keep the retaining straps. ????
Old 01-22-2008, 01:24 PM
  #5  
Registered User
 
matthopp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Was yours the whole unit or just the piston? I tried replacing just the piston, but similar problems as you and found that the seals at the resevoir and piston were leaking a bit. Returned the setup and bought the whole system from dodge and problem was fixed.
Old 01-22-2008, 01:37 PM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Arrow

Originally Posted by matthopp
Was yours the whole unit or just the piston?
Just the cylinder itself.

I'm going to cut the straps and see what happens.
Old 01-22-2008, 01:47 PM
  #7  
Registered User
 
Dave Miller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ahwahnee, Ca
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I don't remember my slave rod having straps on it or if it did I removed then PRIOR to bolting the slave to the bell housing. I remember it was a real pain trying to compress the rod in against the clutch fork while trying to get the 2 nuts started on the 2 studs. With the straps on it would make it a whole lot easier to mount the slave.
Old 01-22-2008, 02:08 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
Jerrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chillicothe, Texas
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Get the slave cylinder as far as you can in there with still being able to cut the strap. Be ready to bolt it up when you cut it. Dont worry about the plastic thats left on the ends.
Old 01-22-2008, 04:24 PM
  #9  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Jerrod
Get the slave cylinder as far as you can in there with still being able to cut the strap. Be ready to bolt it up when you cut it. Dont worry about the plastic thats left on the ends.
I'll try that.
Old 01-23-2008, 02:21 PM
  #10  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thumbs up

It's working fine now! Actually, didn't do anything except drive it a few more miles.
A local tranny mechanic said the little plastic straps are designed to break apart after the slave cylinder is installed.

I guess the finally BROKE like they were supposed to in the first place.

What's aggravating is that I already drove my truck a good (50) miles AFTER I installed the slave cylinder.

Lesson learned! Thanks for ya all's input!
Old 01-23-2008, 09:31 PM
  #11  
Registered User
 
jp8819's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: greensboro
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
When I installed mine I just left the straps on and once you step on the clutch pedal the first time it will break the straps. I figured it was suppose to be done that way since when i removed the old one I found part of the old strap. I do have the SB upgraded hydros though.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PA90Ranger
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
2
08-05-2010 08:49 PM
Gen414
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
2
05-07-2009 11:08 AM
cgmorgan06
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2007 and up
3
11-15-2007 04:02 PM
Fishbait
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
10
06-06-2006 12:34 PM



Quick Reply: Replaced Slave cylinder...now have Low Clutch Pedal



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:50 AM.