Replaced Slave cylinder...now have Low Clutch Pedal
#1
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Replaced Slave cylinder...now have Low Clutch Pedal
I recently replaced the slave cylinder on my 98. I replaced it following the provided instructions exactly.
I now have a good bit of play in my clutch pedal. It engages very low and close to the floor.
I was very thorough in bleeding the system of any air.
This new slave cylinder came with (2) little plastic retaining straps that are connected to the plastic nose cap on the end of the rod.
The instructions are clear in saying that these straps are NOT to be cut and are to be retained for proper adjustment.
When I removed my old slave cylinder, it had NO plastic retaining straps at all. It appeared there were straps at one time though.
Like I said, I was very thorough in bleeding all the air out.
Would it be ok to cut these (2) little plastic retaining straps (like my old one was) to get the slop out of the pedal ?
I now have a good bit of play in my clutch pedal. It engages very low and close to the floor.
I was very thorough in bleeding the system of any air.
This new slave cylinder came with (2) little plastic retaining straps that are connected to the plastic nose cap on the end of the rod.
The instructions are clear in saying that these straps are NOT to be cut and are to be retained for proper adjustment.
When I removed my old slave cylinder, it had NO plastic retaining straps at all. It appeared there were straps at one time though.
Like I said, I was very thorough in bleeding all the air out.
Would it be ok to cut these (2) little plastic retaining straps (like my old one was) to get the slop out of the pedal ?
#2
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I just replaced my clutch with SBC 13 " upgraded one. I also replaced the master-slave-resovouir as one unit for about $200 from SBC. I read lots about failed attempts at bleeding the clutch system and conluded that it requires a pressure bleeder to do it right and its best to replace the master-slave with resovouir as a unit. Just my 2 cents. Hope you get it worked out.
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#5
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Was yours the whole unit or just the piston? I tried replacing just the piston, but similar problems as you and found that the seals at the resevoir and piston were leaking a bit. Returned the setup and bought the whole system from dodge and problem was fixed.
#6
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#7
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I don't remember my slave rod having straps on it or if it did I removed then PRIOR to bolting the slave to the bell housing. I remember it was a real pain trying to compress the rod in against the clutch fork while trying to get the 2 nuts started on the 2 studs. With the straps on it would make it a whole lot easier to mount the slave.
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#8
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Get the slave cylinder as far as you can in there with still being able to cut the strap. Be ready to bolt it up when you cut it. Dont worry about the plastic thats left on the ends.
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#10
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It's working fine now! Actually, didn't do anything except drive it a few more miles.
A local tranny mechanic said the little plastic straps are designed to break apart after the slave cylinder is installed.
I guess the finally BROKE like they were supposed to in the first place.
What's aggravating is that I already drove my truck a good (50) miles AFTER I installed the slave cylinder.
Lesson learned! Thanks for ya all's input!
A local tranny mechanic said the little plastic straps are designed to break apart after the slave cylinder is installed.
I guess the finally BROKE like they were supposed to in the first place.
What's aggravating is that I already drove my truck a good (50) miles AFTER I installed the slave cylinder.
Lesson learned! Thanks for ya all's input!
#11
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When I installed mine I just left the straps on and once you step on the clutch pedal the first time it will break the straps. I figured it was suppose to be done that way since when i removed the old one I found part of the old strap. I do have the SB upgraded hydros though.
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