Please confirm rear brake change procedure
05-28-2007, 03:40 PM
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Please confirm rear brake change procedure
Tell me if this procedure is correct, I'm changing my rear brakes & e-brake shoes for the first time, also changing rear axle oil. There are no manuals for sale locally & Dealer is closed. I've searched these pages for hours and I've come up with this:
1) Drain level M80 axle, after brake job add 85-122oz of 85w-140 HD-hypo id-LSD GL-5+ gear oil, hand tighten drain plug, check breather for obstructions.
2) Jack & stand axle @ a slight angle to avoid oil running out (if full), tires off
3) Hang wire over leaf springs to support removed caliper
---Do I need to back off E-brake shoes? Flat screwdriver in, handle moving down to back off??----
4)Remove the eight 9/16 bolts on the 4 3/4" diameter axle cover (proper name?)
---What is the proper re-torque for these 9/16 bolts? They have 6 lines on the head.---
5) Use a 2 9/16" thin wall socket to remove axle nut, may have a retaining clip
---What do I re-torque the 2 9/16" nut to?---
6) Have rag in hand, slide out axle
---do I need to mark it & return it in the same exact place?---
7) Remove rotor/drum?
---Should it just slide out?
8) Replace E-brake shoes in a way similar to regular drum brakes?
9) Lube E-brake cable w/ silicone, graphite, PB???
10) Replace rotor/drum, axle, end cover, do not shear off any of the 9/16" cover bolts. Be ready, because they probably will.
11) Replace disc brake pads & return caliper
12) Adjust E-brake spindle nut until there is slight pressure when turning rotor by hand. Back off ____? many turns
Re-torque wheels to 145ft/lbs, recheck in 100 miles
I'm going after the e-brake shoes because there is something loose in there (right side).
Thank you for any help.
----What I really need is the torque specs for the eight 9/16" bolts & the axle nut.----
1) Drain level M80 axle, after brake job add 85-122oz of 85w-140 HD-hypo id-LSD GL-5+ gear oil, hand tighten drain plug, check breather for obstructions.
2) Jack & stand axle @ a slight angle to avoid oil running out (if full), tires off
3) Hang wire over leaf springs to support removed caliper
---Do I need to back off E-brake shoes? Flat screwdriver in, handle moving down to back off??----
4)Remove the eight 9/16 bolts on the 4 3/4" diameter axle cover (proper name?)
---What is the proper re-torque for these 9/16 bolts? They have 6 lines on the head.---
5) Use a 2 9/16" thin wall socket to remove axle nut, may have a retaining clip
---What do I re-torque the 2 9/16" nut to?---
6) Have rag in hand, slide out axle
---do I need to mark it & return it in the same exact place?---
7) Remove rotor/drum?
---Should it just slide out?
8) Replace E-brake shoes in a way similar to regular drum brakes?
9) Lube E-brake cable w/ silicone, graphite, PB???
10) Replace rotor/drum, axle, end cover, do not shear off any of the 9/16" cover bolts. Be ready, because they probably will.
11) Replace disc brake pads & return caliper
12) Adjust E-brake spindle nut until there is slight pressure when turning rotor by hand. Back off ____? many turns
Re-torque wheels to 145ft/lbs, recheck in 100 miles
I'm going after the e-brake shoes because there is something loose in there (right side).
Thank you for any help.
----What I really need is the torque specs for the eight 9/16" bolts & the axle nut.----
05-30-2007, 06:16 PM
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I didnt know you had drums and shoes in the back but now assuming that you do...
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/05-04-97.htm
the rears aren't bad...work on one side at a time...have a good look at both sides first to see how things are arranged...my rears were not perfect mirror images cause the E brake lines enter my drum from different directions...u need good locking plyers!!!...unless u have the special tools..i didnt...u gotta be patient with the springs...aside from that not a bad job
don't forget to adjust them manually...never rely on that self adjustign mechanism
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/05-04-97.htm
the rears aren't bad...work on one side at a time...have a good look at both sides first to see how things are arranged...my rears were not perfect mirror images cause the E brake lines enter my drum from different directions...u need good locking plyers!!!...unless u have the special tools..i didnt...u gotta be patient with the springs...aside from that not a bad job
don't forget to adjust them manually...never rely on that self adjustign mechanism
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