jklidy

06 3500 dually 4x4

Replaced the pinion shaft seal. Started the flange on the pinion shaft (got the splines lined up and beat it with a mallet to get it to move.) The beating started after we made every effort to remove the residual teflon sealant from both the spline and the flange. I was able to move the flange about 3/4 of the way down the spline before I ran the nut down to meet the flange. Using a 1/2 in drive rachet I continued to tighten the nut untill I was not able to turn anymore using that amount of leverage. I then did a roatational torque check on the nut and got an average reading of 5 inch pounds. The intital reading (axels removed) was15nch pounds. This to me meant I was problably not yet even in contact with bearing. Again not being able to run the nut down any further, I tried again with an impact wrench.......same reading. Then I pounded it again, and appently my fustration got the best of me and the next roatation check took close to 200 in pounds to get it to budge.

First question......... The flange itself seemed really difficult to move along the spline, is this normal? Should I need to use an impact wrench to get it to move?

Second question.......... Assuming I figure out wich wrench to use to tighten it down, how do i know when the flange contacts the bearing?

Third...... Now that I need to replace the collapsable spacer what special tools will I need? Someone told me that I would need a "spreader" to get the carrier out of the housing?

Last question................beings how I have both the front axels removed, along with the front driveshaft is it going to do any damage to the transfer case or otherwise if I drive it around in 2wd?


Thanks for your help

jklidy

Any help will be much appreciated

fred03Ram

I would HIGHLY recommend taking it to a shop. Trust me this isnt a headache you want to try to fix if you arent familiar with gearsets. The spreader you mentioned is a specialty tool, that very few people have. As for driving it, it wont hurt the t-case, but you must put the stub shafts back in the wheel bearings and put the nuts back on. IF YOU DONT YOUR WHEELS WILL COME OFF. The shaft at the wheel is actually what holds the bearing together.

patdaly

First, you can get the diff out, but not nearly as easy, never had a D60 apart, but the crush sleeve might be able to be pulled without removing the diff if it is not too deformed, pull outer bearing cone and try.

Second, the pinion should slide pretty doggone easily on, if not there is a gauld picked up or something else very bad happening. This will also answer you about when the flange contacts the brg.

You may have fun getting that flange back off....

And no, it should cause you no grief to run without Axles and driveshaft in 2 WD. The Axles being removed are key though, you don't want that thing spinning.

Duh, just saw the above post, ys on our unit bearings you must run the stub axles.....

jklidy

Thanks for all your help, just parked the truck (put 115 miles on it thinking it was ok like it was ) I kept it under 100 mph, think Ill buy a powerball ticket