I broke the left axle while sled pulling last night. The axle exploded at the carrier, a Power-Lok. I have pulled the axle and carrier out and need to know the best way to get the axle out of the carrier. I can see the axle stub through a slot in the Power-Lok, but prying on it won't get it out. I suppose I'm going to have to disassemble the Power-Lok, and I need to know if there is anything I need to watch out for when doing so, or if there is another way.
Next question, is the sleeve of the power-lok, between the outside of the power-lok and the splines, going to cause a problem if it is buggered up? It has a bunch of marks in it where the metal was churning after the axle exploded, but I don't think a good axle even touches that area, it is supported by the splines in the carrier.

Is there anything I need to look close at in the carrier, especially the splines, once I get the axle stub out?
I have an axle out of a rear I swapped out of this truck, so I can put it back together as soon as I clean out all of the metal in the left bearing and the axle tube(s). The bearing looks OK, it just has little bits of metal in it. I drove a total of about 1/4 mile with it after the axle blew, in 4x4, to get to the parking area, load it on the trailer, pull it into the garage today, etc.

All advice appreciated.



Thanks,
Chris

 

When we used to twist off axles on the race car, I would use an arc welder and rod to remove the stub. Just touch the electode to the stub and let the rod stick to it. Release the rod holder and pull on the welding rod. In my case, the broken stub always pulled out with the rod.

Good luck.

 

Thanks Robert, btu I don't have a stick welder here. I don't know if that would work in this case because I can get behind it from a slot in the carrier, but prying from there wouldn't budge it, which makes me afraid I'm going to have to take the Power-Lok apart.
There's another question though, if I end up needing that left side of the Power-Lok, where can I get parts for it? Will I have to buy an entire new Power-Lok?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Chris, taking the Powr-Lok apart is no big deal. Nothing will fly apart. Keep the clutches oriented properly so you don't mess up the preload. It'll give you an excuse to change the clutches while you're in there - if you have time to wait for parts.

It doesn't look to me like anything more than cosmetic damage on the case. As long as the side gear turns freely in the case it won't cause any trouble.

 

Thanks, going to take it apart now. Will post pics.
You know the torque spec for when I put it back together (Power-lok bolts)?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Yep.

90 - 100 foot-lb on the case half bolts. You can hold the case still while torqueing by clamping the axle shaft in a padded vise. There should be an axle in each side of the case while torquing so everything is aligned properly.

Bearing cap bolts are 70 - 90 foot-lb.

I have no idea why the specs are so vague.

 

Thanks for the specs. I pulled it apart and I am glad I did, there was planty of metal in the left side clutch pack. I found the one side of just one friction on either side is worn to metal on outside edge. This would be wear the conicle steels contact it. I swapped the friction to the other side so the the inside of the steel would be pressing on it initially.
If this is really bad I will have to order a rebuild kit, I suppose. I will post pics later tonight so you can see what I'm talking about.

Thanks,
Chris

 

OK, here are the pics.
First one shows the friction that has worn to metal on the outer edge. How bad is this?



Another clutch that seems a little worn, but not down to the metal.



The next two are the buggering of the inside of the left side of the carrier. Fortunately the axle shaft comes nowhere close to it.





The next 2 are the axle stub I drove out of the carrier after I pulled it apart.





Any comments or suggestions from you axle experts will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Replace the clutches. They are shot. Reider Racing is where I got the parts to rebuild mine. They have a website, but you have to call to order and get pricing.

As long as all that gouging does not contact the axle it will not cause a problem.

 

How much does a rebuild kit cost?
I will probably not rebuild it this time, as I am trying to get it back together quickly for next weekend's pull, but I'll just pull it down again. That will be winter work.
Is there anything I need to know about setting it up? I have heard that LS units can be set up tight or loose, but I do not know about this one, or if there is even a way to adjust it besides the number of frictions and steels. There doesn't appear to be any way to adjust it. It separated as I took the bolts loose, and when I went back together, after cleaning it, I had to draw it down, so it's tight to begin with.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Oh, another thing, when I pulled it apart there were no shims on either side of the carrier. Is this normal? I thought that the side angle had to be adjusted on these carriers.

Thanks,
Chris

 

I had to replace all the internals in mine, so I can't say for sure on price. I've heard that the clutches are around $50. Setup is simple, just drop the clutches in oriented properly. The steels are concave, and they are all supposed to have the concave facing inwards for a stock build. To add more preload, flip one or two per side. That's probably what you did when you reassembled it.

I guess that one was machined just right. If it's not noisy and the pattern on the R&P looks good, don't worry - be happy.

 

I did put all steels back in concave side towards the center. I just flipped the single problem clutch on each side over so that the "natural" contact point on it would be the convex center, instead of the concave outer edge. This may matter a whole lot less once the steels are compressed, but from the wear pattern I saw, it should help.
The biggest thing for me, as can be noted my a previous thread, is figuring when the LS is too tight. I had put one bottle of friction modifier in it, and it loosened up to where I didn't chirp the inside tire in a corner unless I applied moderate power. Normal corner turning, under low power, produced no chirping. I just don't want to put too much modifier in there because it will make the LS less effective.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Awesome pics of the carnage!

 

I let my clutches go way too far and did a lot of damage a long way from home. The bill was astronomical. Your broken axle may have been a blessing in disguise because clutch packs are cheap. P.S. you should get style points for the looks of your axle.

GM had lots of problems with the limited slip differentials in their Dana's so they developed a better, concentrated additive which works very well and is relatively cheap $8. I get NO noise even on the tightest corner now.