jaconst

cant remember what my sig says I now have:
97 2500 4x4 auto 3:55 never been Modded straight pipe and BHAF about all thats been messed with 297,xxx had bad oil leak decided to do KDP and find leak as well as vacuum pump o-ring seal since everythings apart.

I get the vibration damper off and realize its bad missing rubber and stuff supposed to get that tomorow morning. also found what appears to be the culprit.. the seal at the crank and the timing cover.

I should also tell that for the KDP job I decided to get the case gasket and that seal so Im good to go there I also got a new o-ring for the oil fill tube.
I have the case off and Im cleaning all the gunk off it and the stuff I took out ( shroud, resevoir for coolant and windshield washer fan and clutch timing case) just full of gunk any suggestions for getting off engine? im in my backyard so limited.
also glad I decided to do KDP it was out a ways I would say near 1/8" possibly I have pounded it back in<with the limited room there is, to just past flush but since I dont have the KDP kit what can I do to ensure its tabbed or does someone know the size bolt and washer or whatever I could get from hardware store? or I do have red locktite as well. I also plan on removing case bolts one at a time and clean put red loc-tite and rtv and tighten to correct torque, I printed out TST instructions included with their kit as a guide.
On the Vacuum pump I went to cummins and bought their seal repair kit which I was told includes all the seals and gaskets nedded and even has instructions. I have removed the intake horn and intercooler tube to connection near lower front firewall to get more visibility and room to manuever I have drained res by removing the ps hose that is nut but for the life of me I cannot get the two hoses off that have the factory clamps and probably factory hoses they seem to be painted to the lines I do not see another way to get those lines off PLEASE HELP HOW DO I GET THOSE HOSES OFF?? whats the trick Im ready to cut them and put new hose clamps on.

ANY other ideas or tricks words of wisdom let me know greatly appreciated thank you in advance

torquefan

Yes the power steering return hose connections seem to be glued on to the lines as well as being clamped. I always leave the p/s pump in the truck, and just separate it from the vacuum pump after I get the assembly unbolted from the engine. It's a little trickier to get the two pumps joined back together while you are hunched up under the hood, but at least you won't have p/s fluid dripping all over the place.

cmac

if i read that right you do not have the tab and longer bolt for the KDP right? i know of some people that have notched in the sides of that hole so the pin can't come back out.

Andy505

After I unbolted the two pumps from each other I moved the p/s pump out of the way and just removed the vacuum pump. I didnt touch the p/s lines, like torquefan said, its little tricky getting them back together, but its a lot better than having p/s fluid all over the place.

kthiemann

I want to say that the bolt for the timing cover is something like a 8mm by 1.25 thread pitch but don't remember the length....I think the best bet is to take it out and run it up to the parts house and match it up, instead of buying the tab I normally get a washer for the bolt and grind it to fit as needed then just lock-tite the bolt in as I torque it. As to the power steering hoses if I have to take the pump off I use a small hook tool and gently force it between the hose and the hose barb then work it around the hose...normally about half way around or so the hose will break loose and it will pull off, just be careful not to distort the hose barb, it is very thin metal and will bend very easily and can cause a p.s leak. Also don't forget that there may be a bracket on the bottom corner of the p.s. pump that bolts to the block...some people miss it and then wonder why the pump won't move.

jaconst

you are right cmac I didnt get a kdp kit I looked at the $70 cost and decided to get the gaskets from cummins instead i needed the one for the crank anyways as that was my biggest leak. if someone knows the bolt and what I can do for a washer I can get at hardware store? otherwise I will use a chisel and strike the pin & caseand then cover with red loc-tite?

anybody else have ideas on the PS lines? should I cut them and put new hose clamp? most of the fluid is out and theres so much oil underneath this truck and the fact that it is RUST FREE 99.5% hardly any surface rust a little extra ps fluid isnt going to make a difference ifit makes my job easier and I can also clean more components like the ps pump and resevior of all the oil and sludge. but if the majority of you suggest leaving the ps in I might go that way sounds to me like 6 of one half a dozen of the other anyways.

thank you for all the responses
Im baffled by the dampner goin out this motor is stock as they come pretty much for nearly 300,000 miles it was def missing chunks of rubber from in between it. if anyone has any other advice or suggestions especially since I have things apart. It looks to me like the cover behind the injection pump ( long cover maybe for the valve rods or something?) looks like its warped or a gap between that cover and the rubber gasket I know you have to remove the pump to get at that and Im not willing to do that unless someone knows if I CAN do it without removing pump?? also does anyone have a photo they can post of the overflow tube or whatever that needs occaissional cleaning im sure it needs to be done and any other leak sources since im in there

thank you so much
josh

jaconst

yeah i tried a tool I have for checking seams on flat roofing its like a pick with a hooked 90* at end and i tried a pliers i tried turning the hoses and thought I got it broke loose but no..... hope I didnt damage the hose barb... just going to cut the lines and use new hose clamp there is enough slack for it I think

rebal

for cleaning i use brake cleaner . for the kdp ,sometimes you can hit the hole if the pin is in deep enough so its peened over the pin wont come out . most of the time you have to tab it make sure you get as many inner bolts cleaned and lock tighted in as you can. also the power steering pump just leave it in ,not hard to remate later.

jaconst

ok ill leave ps in then its not rusty just gunky/oily so things have been going back together pretty good so ill leave it in...
i planned on doing all the bolts I have the flywheel access cover off so i can turn the motor to get all the case bolts one-at-a-time take out clean clean hole and put loc-tite on.

anybody have photo of breather tube??
going to remove housing and move plate its never been touched going to plug wastegate too