killer dowel repair
#16
1st Generation Admin
Speaking of botched crankshaft seals, this may help correctly install a new one ~ https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=126282
Hope it helps.
Hope it helps.
#17
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The price seems a bit steep for what they are doing. I haven't heard anyone speak of replacing the waterpump at 160K miles just for preventive maintenance. Flushing the cooling system isn't such a bad idea but I think you are getting set up to be taken. The job isn't all that bad and may not need to be done at all depending upon your build date.
I'd ask a few more questions before shelling over $700 right before Christmas. Sounds like your wrench turner may be looking at the new SnapOn tool catalogue. You could get the wife a nice gift or start some nice mods for the truck.
Just my 2CW.
Paul
I'd ask a few more questions before shelling over $700 right before Christmas. Sounds like your wrench turner may be looking at the new SnapOn tool catalogue. You could get the wife a nice gift or start some nice mods for the truck.
Just my 2CW.
Paul
#19
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Don't try to take the fan off the hub. just take the four 10mm fan housing bolts off at the engine. It's alot easier. It explains this is the TST instructions.
see section 7 below.
http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf
see section 7 below.
http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf
#22
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#23
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breaking loose fan clutch from hub with new tool. then separating fan blade is substantially easier and safer than removing as an entire assembly.
there's not much room to move hub/fan clutch/fan assembly around. high risk of damaging your fragile radiator. much easier and safer to separate assembly into parts.
only take aprox. 10 minutes to separate. once taken apart fan blade slips right through. as does fan clutch. no need to take off shround/radiator hoses.
after fan clutch assembly is taken out. rest of job is a piece of cake! hardest part of job is breaking loose 36mm nut from hub. with tool shown, it's easy.
there's not much room to move hub/fan clutch/fan assembly around. high risk of damaging your fragile radiator. much easier and safer to separate assembly into parts.
only take aprox. 10 minutes to separate. once taken apart fan blade slips right through. as does fan clutch. no need to take off shround/radiator hoses.
after fan clutch assembly is taken out. rest of job is a piece of cake! hardest part of job is breaking loose 36mm nut from hub. with tool shown, it's easy.
Don't try to take the fan off the hub. just take the four 10mm fan housing bolts off at the engine. It's alot easier. It explains this is the TST instructions.
see section 7 below.
http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf
see section 7 below.
http://www.tstproducts.com/DowelPina.pdf
#24
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...given the variety of opinions on the existence of the KDP in '99's - I did mine, just to be safe -
The local Cummins shop actually had a part for it, a small tab that bolts down (same location as the previously posted pic with the coat-hangar fix) - it was under $3
$700 is pretty steep, and you can do it in a couple of hours, just make sure you are careful with the bullnose seal! Yes, I tore mine and had to go back in and replace it......
The local Cummins shop actually had a part for it, a small tab that bolts down (same location as the previously posted pic with the coat-hangar fix) - it was under $3
$700 is pretty steep, and you can do it in a couple of hours, just make sure you are careful with the bullnose seal! Yes, I tore mine and had to go back in and replace it......
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