Dodgezilla

Well, I installed the HTB2 turbo today and as per the advise of another member I just ran a jumper between the two wires for the plug going to the wastegate. Got it installed and it fired right up. While I was all dirty I decided to install my Genos fuel cap so I could hook up my FP guage. I thought I could reuse the rubber O-ring but fuel went everywhere and I realized that the O-ring had squeezed out and needed to be replaced. Got one and installed it and truck started fine but ran a little rough as they sometimes due after a fuel filter change. The idle smoothed out and I took it for a spin and after about 100yds the engine got real loud and "Dieseled" for a split second. I thought maybe I had pushed on the accelerator on accident and continued with my ride. It did it a couple more times during my ride. I got back home and checked for codes and man they just kept coming!!!

P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor Performance
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Performance / Rationality
These two are probably from me hooking up the TST plugs backwards last week but kind of strange that they just showed up.

P0148 Fuel Delivery Error
Possibly from the fuel running out of the canister due to the O-ring pushing out. The truck did run kind of rough when I first started it up but I figured it was because the fuel filter had been in and out and that I probably had an air bubble in the system somewhere. The idle did smooth out before I left for my ride but it did take a couple minutes.

P0073 Ambient Temp Sensor Too High
This one is probably from me starting the engine without the air temp sensor plugged in!!

P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Low
P0243 ????

It's the last two that I am not sure of. Anybody know what these mean?? I'm afraid to drive the truck now because it feels like it's gonna die when it starts acting strangely. It has not died yet though.
Should I have jumpered the two wires in the wastegate plug? Or should I have just plugged it to keep moisture out??

Please help!!!!!

gmctd

One wire is usually power and the other is usually ground - un-jumper the wastegate plug.

The multiple codes can indicate a global failure - such as when power is shorted to ground.

Clear the codes and try again - if they do not reset, then you're prolly good to go.

mo.redneck

the P0243 is an over boost pressure, it can come from not haveing you wastgate vac hose attached or a couple of other things . you can check in a haynes manual to see what it say but heres is a link to look at some codes. Hope it helps ya.
Shawn


http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=303141

Dodgezilla

That code is probably just from not having the wastegate wires properly connected. I am told that I just need a resistor to connect the two wires and it should be alright. Honestly, I don't think the turbo has anything to do with the rough running.

I disconnected the battery negatives and all the codes are gone but the truck was still running rough last time it would start. Now the problems have intensified. I pulled the boxes off in case it has to go to the dealership. Somehow in the process I have done something to cause the ignition system to malfunction. All I did was unhook the boxes and plug the factory plugs back in their proper position. Now when I turn the key to run the dash lights come on but I don't hear the LP running and the starter does absolutely nothing!!
I swear! I wish I would have never touched the truck this morning!!!!

mo.redneck

still under coverage right? have them tow it

53 willys

WOW! what a PITA.
So have you tried with the jumper off yet???

Do you think the sentry(SP?) key has any thing to do with it??

I thought that I read on here that if you leave the ignition on for too long without starting the truck it will throw codes??

So right now it wont crank at all and shows no codes?

donhov

With the Can Bus sytem on this truck is it possible that you may have just blown a fuse somewhere, or a shorted out a relay? Don't know much about them but just trying a little logic by the pump not running, and the other symptoms you described sounds like no power somewhere to me.

P.J

Sucks.

I agree with DonHov, something has to be unhooked/or somehow got temporarily grounded.

53 willys

yeah it's called the wastegate jumper wire.

I think the ECM would send a certain voltage to the wastegate, then it would expect a certain voltage coming back to the ECM. When the jumper was put in the ECM reads the full voltage and thinks the wastegate should be wide-open. when it's not and all the other engine management sensors show something else the ECM starts throwing the codes.


that's just my guess

I also found this.......
P0243 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid 1
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage


I would think that if what I say is true it would show this code but who knows, I'm just trying to help.

P0246 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid 1 High Voltage or...
P0250 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid 2 High Voltage

gmctd

Actually, what happens is ECM continually reads the wg circuit - when the coil is in-circuit the reading is zero and all is good.

When ECM energizes the coil, feedback from the MAP sensor indicates Boost has changed correspondingly - and all is good.

When the connector is unplugged, the expected zero reading is high, and sets a code.

When the connector is shorted with the jumper, the reading is zero, and all seems good, until ECM tries to energize the coil - ZAP! power is shorted to ground, and, based on what else is powered by the same source, other codes can be set.

And the MAP sensor output remains unchanged, setting a corresponding code(s).

Remember - computers ain't smarter'n we are, they're just faster'n we are.

'Bout 20 million times faster............

53 willys

I was close right.....

Dodgezilla

I think the No Start issue may be caused by the wire taps supplied with the TST. They seem like a great idea but after you use them, and then pull them out, the contacts stay spread apart. Then when you put the fuse back in that side of the fuse doesn't touch the contacts. That's where I will start looking after work today. Timinva told my I can just use a 100 ohm resister to connect the wires and that should do the same as a boost fooler for the turbo. Do you guys think I'm better off with the jumper in or should I pull it off in the meantime???
The rough running is my main concern but I don't think it is caused by the turbo. Will this engine purge any air out eventually or do I need to do something to purge it? If I can't figure out anything out today then I will be getting it towed to the dealer.

Dodgezilla

I stuck one of the wire taps back in the fuse box and the truck started right up. It was running really badly but at least it was running. One thing I did notice was that when the engine starts running badly, the idle jumps up but starts rattling and the amp guage jumps way up too. When the engine jumps back down to normal, so does the amp guage.
I think TST needs a better way to tap into the fuse box. It's kind of crazy that the contacts don't compress back when you remove the taps. If I leave the tap in there and the tech sees it then they may start asking questions about performance boxes. I don't know how I'm going to handle that...

Shovelhead

Have you considered a Painless Wiring power panel to avoid the "Mickey-Mouse" fuse taps?

Dodgezilla

I thought about one of those but instead I plan on not putting the TST back on. I have decide to only moderately mess with this truck since it's my daily driver and really my only vehicle. I had to have the wifey and kids bring me to work this morning. I get to drive a 15' box truck until I get this thing fixed. What really stinks is that this is going to be some really easy fix for someone who knows what they are doing. I'm just not that guy......