Crimedog

Went up north hunting last weekend and smelled some antifreeze when I got to the cabin. Coolant leaking down the side of the block, and I got to watch it go pssshhhhh. So, emergencey situation I added some Bars Leak, gonna pull the head next weekend and flush the cooling system out to get rid of the bars leak crap.

Anyway, I wasn't planning on addressing this until next spring so I need some advice. When I pull the head do I need to get it resurfaced? truck just turned 191K. How about things like exhaust gaskets, are they reusable? Most importantly is do I go with standard or marine HG? I am going to order a set of head studs today, DTT has them on sale for $399. I want to add another turbo next summer, an HT3B, should I be alright with the studs and new gasket? I remember HOHN saying something about studs and stock gasket or holding upwards of 60 psi for people, I can't see the HT3B pulling more than 50 psi...

Anyway, I'm a little lost right now so any input would really be greatly appreciated!!!

John Faughn

It sounds like you'll be doing the work , if so find a very good machine shop to help with questions ,but let them know your bringing them work such as when you get the head off bring it to them dirty . the reason being that it sounds like this is your 1st and there are a lot of things that a good shop would look for while taking apart , this being your 1st let them help it can cost a little more but it can help in the long run . What you wnat them to do is check for cracks [ pressure test- magnaflux-???] no sence in milling and installing a cracked head . If the head checks out then they should check it for warpage , even if its flat have the head surfaced so that the new gasget has a good chance to seal [ thats the way the gasget manufactures have it figured when making the gasget] if your going to make your mods mild then I think that studs may be excesive ,but you are going a little high on psi so a little something extra is good ie marine gasget , machine shops used to get better pricing than parts houses so get your parts through them [ I they get the impression that your a motor head than a smart shop would work with ya on cost becouse your going to need more in the future and in todays machine shop world they need all the good customers they can get and works both ways ]

mr T

im also curious about this now that my mileage is getting up there and im just starting to add mods

i was under the impression that if ur head gasket has gone south then u just gotta get the top off...toss the old gasket....clean the surface...make sure to not drop crap in there especially #5 and 6...and put the new gasket on...tighten things to torque specs and rock n roll

that was my assumption

John Faughn

More often than not if your head gasget goes than you can end up with a warped head and also possible a cracked head , so checking for both of these saves having to do over or more damged. If you know a good machine shop they should be able to show you a surface gauge that has differant texure grades for specific aplications that each gasget manufactures specs. If you want it to last [191,000] llike the last guy. then do it the way it was engineered to work .

Crimedog

As far as next summer goes, I plan on going with twins (HT3B), and probably adding some delivery valves. This is why I am contemplating the studs, because I want this thing to be reliable. I don't want to have to worry about when the head gasket is going to pop.

What is the main advantage of the marine gasket? I talked with Cummins in White Bear today and the guy I talked to said that he hasn't heard of people running the marine gasket, and as far as he knew there was no advantage. I also talked to Haisley Machine and they said that on their puller they just run the standard gasket instead of the marine. Right now I am leaning towards standard gasket + head studs.

MnTom

Matt, Have you thought of getting the head fire ringed?

Crimedog

I've been thinking all day about o ringing it. I called the local head shop in town and they said they do a lot of o ringing, apparantly on larger Cummins but not on our 5.9's. I'm going to call around tomorrow and see what I can find. I would really like to do it once and be done with it. If you o ring the head only, you pretty much have to use studs, correct?

joefarmer

****all my own opinion****

Yes, get the head resurfaced unless it's less than .002" warped anywhere. Get new exhaust gaskets, they were $3.23ea when I last bought them. Go Marine +.030" HG. Less compression, more boost capacity, larger silicone seals. ARP Studs. You should be alright with the studs and new gasket unless you like to tow heavy. Then oringing wouldn't be a bad idea.

bradnon.

Haulin_in_Dixie

A little info on your problem... You have not "blown" a head gasket in the normal sense of the word. The B engien has a weakness at that point that has been worked on with several changes. There is no reason to expect that the head is warped due to the gasket problem, it happens all the time.

I am not saying not to check it, but the head gasket leak is not from too much power or heavy use, it is just a weak point in the design. The newer gaskets have a clip on the opposite side to add pressure to the problem area.

What I am saying is that you don't necessarily need to have mods to the engine for this problem. I have had two engines do the same leak where once changed the gasket never leaked again.

A little tip, before putting the gasket on, get a machinests stone about any size will do and stone the block surface and the head surface before installing the head, even if you have it resurfaced. Make sure that the machine lines are visible on the whole surface and do clean the surfaces real good before putting the gasket on. And I always use a compound on the threads for a better torque.

amartinson

Matt,

I would suggest that you send a PM to Josh Peters also. I think he just went through the head gasket, studs, o-rings, fire rings, and adding twins decisions.

Crimedog

Thanks for reminding me, Andy.. I sent Josh a message.

I called Piers today and sure enough they have new heads on sale for 495 including everything. o ringing is another 200 from them. This sucks, it puts everything about $250 more than what I wanted to spend, but then I know that it's going to hold up if I start to crank up the power a bit... Have to decide today, now I'm leaning towards the new head, o ringed, and the marine gasket... AAARRRRGGGHHH!

MnTom

GEEZ, I might have to come down there and go to work for your Dad!!!! If you can afford all that PLUS college, he is payin ya a lot more than I would!!!

magnum

Sorry you are having problems Matt...let me know if you need any help!
Still here at Dunwoody....tues,wed,&thurs evenings.

Magnum

Crimedog

Well, Tom... I got lucky with scholarships for school so I only have to shell out about $2300 for this year. At $10 an hour it takes a long time to pay for stuff! He's hurting for help right now with me and my other brother off to school, so if you want I bet I can get you a job the new head is kinda one of those "I have the money to do it but I don't have the money" things, I could do it right and get the head and orings but I would be flat broke and if something else happened I'd be SOL. So today I ordered studs and a .010 over head gasket, and my headlight switch burned up on me on the same trip so that makes my wallet way too thin. I am officially done spending money on this thing until next spring! Got to get a job down here so I can make money instead of spend money...

Bob, I see there's a new set of wheels in your sig! Congratulations! I'll be up there for a month over Christmas break, I'll be stoppin by if Dunwoody is still having class.

Anyway, thanks for the advice/help from everyone. Hopefully Saturday will go alright...

MnTom

I hope you can get it back together and be able to make it to the Dyno Day. Bob, I would really like to see you there too.
Tom