Front caliper bleeder valves rounded off
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Front caliper bleeder valves rounded off
Well, I put new pads on, turned the rotors, and replaced all of the brake fluid in the master cylinder with new fluid. I intended to flush the brake lines with new fluid, but the bleeder valves have been rounded to the point I cannot get a wrench to fit. They are so tight, I couldn't get Vise Grips to turn them. What are my options? I bled the rears. I just put shoes on them last week, the pedal was extremely hard before I bled them and the fluid that came out was almost like tar. It feels pretty soft now, but I think I can get it to feel even better if I can bleed the front. Any ideas?
Chris
Chris
#2
Registered User
Get everything that you can out of the way, then pour a little bit of brake fluid on the bleeder screws, maybe a drop or two, it will work its way in better than any penetrating oil. Then, grip the bleeder screw with your vise grips, as tight as you can. Taking a small ball peen hammer, tap on the end of the bleeder screw as you twist with the vise grips. you don't have to hit it hard, just steadily. This is much like a primitive impact wrench. (being much like a primitive human being I can understand this )
A few (dozen) taps with the hammer, and some steady pressure in the off direction, and they should come out. Been there lots, last time was earlier today on a 93 ford e-350.
Good luck and happy whacking
A few (dozen) taps with the hammer, and some steady pressure in the off direction, and they should come out. Been there lots, last time was earlier today on a 93 ford e-350.
Good luck and happy whacking
#6
Registered User
Originally posted by eng208
I'll try Thursday. If I can get them out, can I replace them with new ones?
Chris
I'll try Thursday. If I can get them out, can I replace them with new ones?
Chris
#7
Registered User
I got a great tip once from my Dad (auto mech by trade). He always took a 6 point socket and turned the bleeders clockwise a tiny bit before loosening them. I do it. It hasn't failed me yet.
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#8
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Originally posted by berner
I got a great tip once from my Dad (auto mech by trade). He always took a 6 point socket and turned the bleeders clockwise a tiny bit before loosening them. I do it. It hasn't failed me yet.
I got a great tip once from my Dad (auto mech by trade). He always took a 6 point socket and turned the bleeders clockwise a tiny bit before loosening them. I do it. It hasn't failed me yet.
#9
Some transmission fluid is a great rust buster if you let it sit on there a few days.The thing that will either get them out or break them off is a small 6 inch rigid pipe wrench.Dont use an off brand pipe wrench get a rigid and if you can get it on there something will give for sure.
#11
get a set of cheap six point impact sockets, choose one smaller than the rounded diameter, pound it onto the bleed using a heavy hammer to minimize the work on the threads and then just use a ratchet. if that doesn't work it would surprise me. one point, make sure that there is enough room in the socket for the tit.
#13
Registered User
If you have to do all that... heat, trans fluid, beat them with a hammer, tighten then, then loosen them..... can you imagine what the pistons look like? Just replace them and have done with it! Rebuilt calipers are cheap!
#15
Probably since the fluid he flushed out looks like tar and the bleeders are stuck bad means the fluid has been in there forever, drawing moisture .Thats the reason the fluid is black so the pistons are probably corroded and seizing up so they probably need rebuit or replaced.It wouldnt hurt to replace the wheel cylinders to,those aluminum pistons back there really like to corrode.Maybe a bigger gm wheel cylinder upgrade