2002 older body style 2nd generation 24 valve ram 2500 2WD Automatic ABS and a vin of 3b7kc23692m3 for the first few numbers.

Front rotors and in need of immdiate replacement along with the brake pads. I have no access to a service manual and need to know what the process is in order to remove the calipers and replace the pads. Then remove the rotor and install the new one. I have replacement parts in hand.

I am down and need help with this proceedure as soon as possible.

Please advise

 

If your not sure how to do brakes, it might be best to take it to a shop. Brakes are kinda important.

 

I understand how to do brakes and have done them for several years on fords(Which I am a recovering owner there of -Ford Owners Reccommend Dodge) and even a few chevys.

Point Blank - The removal of the caliper I was told by an idiot service writer takes a 15mm allen. BS it is no where near that size and if anything is half of that. Additionally the nut holding the rotor on is a single use application which I have the two new ones to replace it in hand.

Concern is the removal of the rotor and caliper without damaging the abs sensor.

Please advise where I can find this proceedure on line since the local dealer is useless.

Thanks for the help,

CAMS

 

The abs sensor is behind the rotor. Take the rotor off like any other and leave the sensor alone. No need to even touch it. Don't flood it with gasoline to clean it though.

 

In order to remove the caliper what size allen is used - meaning is it metric or is it standard and what is the size since I do not want to strip it with a "Will fit" situation.

 

You don't have the tools?

 

Actually, if it's like my 01, it's a Torx bit, the star shaped bits. Don't remember the size. All you do is you remove the two torx bits holding the caliper on and then pry it off. The pads slip off. Then you remove the 2 12pt bolts (I THINK they are 9/16" if not then 11/16" maybe, definately standard size though) holding the caliper bracket on. Once that's off then you just slide the rotor off. There might be a couple of little retainer clips on a couple of studs holding the rotors off. Just rip those off and discard them. You don't need em.

 

I haven't had my truck brakes/rotors off, but I just replaced the hub/bearings on my wife's durango. There is a 32mm (I think) nut holding the rotor on behind the cotter pin. I'd think the truck would be similar.

 

In this case listed above, jack up one side of the truck then remove the tire from there disconnect the brake supply line and let fluid from master cylinder drain in to a container.

Use a 40W TORX to loosen up the caliper bolts but do not remove all the way.

Remove the top and bottom bolts completely that is holding the caliper to the truck with an 18mm socket.

At this point the caliper may still be holding the rotor which at this point will come off by itself and is only retained by the bolts used to keep the tires on the truck (Not a bad idea). If required insert a small pry bar into the caliper to force the two pistons back in to the caliper housing in order to release the caliper from the rotor. Don't get too cocky with this since you may off set one of the pistons which may require replacement of the caliper (Remember gang the objective is to keep the money in your pocket not the **** parts department). Pry the caliper back enough to have room to slide the caliper off of the rotor and it will come off easily straight back away from the rotor.

With caliper in hand remove the two previously loosened torx bolts that make it easy to remove the older worn brake pads. Also remove the shims that eliminate the rattle of the brake pads. Do not bend or damage the shims since they can be reused if you play nicely. Push by hand or with a c-clamp the pistons back in to the caliper housing be careful of the brake fluid going all over the place in the process.

Reassemble the caliper with the new brake shoes already in side of the caliper and housing WITH OUT THE SHIMS. Insert the two torx bolts and only insert them a few threads in not half or all the way in since you will need to wiggle the shims in.

Set the caliper up in the air as if it was on the rotor and match the top and bottom shim properly. Take the shim on the top going from the outside to the inside and bend the one side of the tabs flat so that they can be LIGHTLY tapped in moving the pads around in the process to allow the shim to slide in to place. Again the shim is light metal and bend easily so do not get too cocky with this as you bend it you will buy the replacements. Once the shim is in all the way bend the tabs back up to prevent it from going for a walk then repeat the process on the bottom shim. Keep in mind the clearances for the shims are not too excessive so it will be easy to get the first shim in and the second will take a little more time.

In my case the rotors are toast so remove old rotor by sliding it off of the wheel studs and slide the new one on (Again nice idea). With the rotor off use compressed air if able and blow off the mag pick up used for the ABS system which will be coated with metal filings. Slide the new rotor on and then place the complete caliper assembly on to the truck.

Tighten the top and bottom caliper bolts with the 18mm socket and flip head 1/2" drive long handle ratchet. From there tighten up the 40W torx head bolts and then connect the brake line that has drained in to the container keeping in mind not to loose the washer that goes between the banjo and the caliper.

Loosen up the bleed screw so that it is hand tight and install a 1' section of clear hose that is secured and tight around the bleed screw. Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid and pump the brakes with the key on and engine not running. Pump completely about 6 to 8 times and then check the clear hose to see if there are any bubbles. If there are bubbles in the line continue pumping completely 6 to 8 times until no bubbles are in the line. From there tighten up the bleed screw with a 3/8 wrench and top off the brake reservoir.

Repeat this process for the other front caliper or rotor and you should be fine. In my case/vintage of truck/year of manufacture/or just another silly *** method of making things more complex then they need to be the spindle nut that says "Do not reuse" does not need to be removed. Additionally, using anti-seize of the two torx bolts makes things a bit easier.

It's beverage time